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Old 03-14-2012, 01:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Wiring a buggy

For my new buggy I would like to wire it with the idea to make repairs, changes and diagnosing easier than the last.

Goal with this thread is to have input and ideas as I wire it this over the next two weeks and share it with others on here and hopefully keep me from goofing up somewhere along the line.






Parts list so far is:


-Master shut off/kill switch on dash

Goal with this thread is to have an active topic as I wire my new buggy, both to gather input, share what I am doing and hopefully help others along when they wire or retire theirs.

I will clean this up/organize it and add pics as I go of the items, with links, pat numbers, suppliers, prices and pretty pictures.


Components :

-red and yellow top Optima batteries

- master shut off switch

-12 volt guy Ultra dual battery and winch control panel 200.00 http://www.12voltguy.com/product.php...cat=258&page=1

-100 amp marine rated manual reset circuit beaker with switch from SDHQ $57.80

- (2) blue sea systems 6 circuit fuse panels "1 current, 1 future" SDHQ $46.98

- Trent fab 14 switch panel with circuits with master plug to remove it $ ALOT http://trentfabrication.com/

-Painless water resistant IGN switch with cool dust boot for the key hole $ SDHQ 55.84
http://sdhqoffroad.com/waterproofuni...ionswitch.aspx






The electric items on my buggy are going to be broke down in 3 main areas

1. Switched items run through the Trent FAb panel with circuit breakers, such as the lights, fans,


2. Fused items that you turn on at the item "example radio" these will be constant 12 volts with the 100 amp breaker directly upstream


3. Engine management fuses and fuel pump #1 relay controlled by the computer



example of a finished Trent panel:



my layout as ordered:




1. Engine fan
2. Trans fan
3. Oil fan " for steering"
4. Fuel pump 2
5. Aux "maybe future front arb
6. Arb compressor
7. Rear arb


Row two

8. Head lights "Hella 55w driving lights"
9. Roof lights "rigid 40" led"
10. Rock lights. " tantrum kit"
11. Flood lights "rigid d2's
12 amber "Rigid amber led"
13. Chase/race lights " blue strobe and rear amber"
14. INterior lights " two led tube mount lights"





-Shawn

Last edited by supersize75k5; 03-14-2012 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Part 2 of the wiring is fused items that can be switched on or things I did not want on the switch panel.

-amp for ipod
-CB with PA
-GPS
-heater
-seat heaters..maybe
-12 volt plug x2
-gauge lights
-horn-siren

These will be run through (2) six circuit Blue Sea Systems fuse panels with the clear cover, these also can be labeled and hold a spare fuse or 2. I decided on 2 of these to help out my lay out design for where they are located. I ordered this from SDHQ at $46.98



In front of these items is the Bussmann 100 amp water proof circuit breaker from SDHQ as well. I did the surface mount as my wiring panel will hinge up.



In front of all of this is a master disconnect reachable by myself and the passenger and located on the dash, the starter and the 100 amp circuit breaker with the fused and switched items down stream will feed from here.


Last edited by supersize75k5; 07-16-2012 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Currently deciding on the wire and selecting the colors for each items

someone recently posted this link:

http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/ was posted for a source to buy well priced wire in a nice array of colors "double raiiiinbow"

*I still need to work out the gauge wire for each item

Also ordered up my weatherpak crimp era, thanks for the input in the other thread! Right at 34.00 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details



For my items so far I have decided to use standard trailer wiring in the rear, goal is to actually use shielded trailer wire to the rear of the buggy if I can make the color choice work out.


items-color-wire-size

Ign to starter solenoid ........................purple
-fuel pump wire from engine harness.....
-fuel pump #2 wire from trent panel......

-Head lights.......................................yello w
-Front flood Rigid led D2's....................
-Front mounted 12 "Amber led..............
-Roof mounted 40" led.........................
-interior lights....................................orange
-gauge lights.......................................orang e





-tail run lights......................................brown
-right stop and turn lights.......................green
-left stop and turn lights.........................yellow
-rear blue race and amber led.................dark blue.

-tantrum rock lights: supplied wire and plugs shortened to fit

-In cab winch control to solenoid wires : as supplied by 12 volt guy

-amp main power wire
-amp signal wire....................................blue with white stripe
-cb................................................ .......red, labeled
-gps............................................... ......
-seat heaters.........................................
-horn.............................................. ......
-12 volt plugs x2 ..................................... red

open to suggestions !

Last edited by supersize75k5; 03-16-2012 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Do you plan to have the fuse panels always live? That is untill the master is switched.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocco View Post
Do you plan to have the fuse panels always live? That is untill the master is switched.

Correct, current thoughts are:


- to run the 12 volt constant for my LS motor to the master disconnect.

And all else will be run through my 100 amp circuit breaker that is down stream from the master.

This will keep the fuse panel and switch panel live and the 100 amp is my kill switch of sorts when I park it. This leaves the master switch for emergency use only or when the buggy will sit for a while.

"Ign on position" on the Ign switch will turn on the gauge lights, I had them run all the time before and it never bugged me.

In my past buggy I only had the master and using that all the time made the engine run like crap at first every time as it relearned for a bit.

I am open to ideas on this but its what I currently have thought up. This set up could be done much different if you used a 12 or 20 something rewired circuit set up from painless or otherwise. I didn't like the constraints of most that I saw being they had only so many 12 volt and so many ign. power sources where I want to be able to turn on things like the rock lights with out having to always put the key in.

Last edited by supersize75k5; 03-14-2012 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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get a bigger breaker if you plan on using one or use an ANL fuse that is less than your wiring. A winch could trip that 100a quite easy. I did not see if you are wiring it after or not.

with mine I have a big ass fuse right after the disconnect and than ran to a distribution bar. from the bar comes my large relays for shit like my inverter. The winch is ran directly off the bar and should it lock ON for whatever reason it will pop the master fuse without causing a fire.

Go with a marine disconnect, they are better built and a higher amp. They are also VERY easy to rig with a pull cable so you can run that right on the dash while keeping the disconnect right near your batteries.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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oh ya, and do you own a nice Dymo label maker? if not I would buy one makes life suck soooooooo much less when you need to do repairs later on.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=usmcdoc14;14136596]get a bigger breaker if you plan on using one or use an ANL fuse that is less than your wiring. A winch could trip that 100a quite easy.




Go with a marine disconnect, they are better built and a higher amp.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=usmcdoc14;14136596]get a bigger breaker if you plan on using one or use an ANL fuse that is less than your wiring. A winch could trip that 100a quite easy.




Go with a marine disconnect, they are better built and a higher amp.




Yes, winch will be to the master disconect. As for the master itself I am open to changing from the quick car unit I have now, never really liked the look or feel of it.
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Old 03-14-2012, 03:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You can see the one I am running here.


directly from there to the main fuse and then off to the system.

The "knob" on it is removable and not shown is I made an aluminum pulley that it fits inside of and epoxied it as one. The wire is attached and wrapped around the pully with the sheath secured right near it. Then the cable is ran right to the drivers seat with a big ass red handle Very simple and very hard for it to get fucked up. And it still allows anyone to reach in and kill it if I can not pull the handle for whatever reason.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Subd will be starting on the buggy wiring my self in the next couple weeks.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Will be watching this one! I used to hate wiring but now it interests me

I used this master shutoff switch from 12voltguy. I like it, turns on and off easily, quality built and turn it a bit further and the dial itself comes off acting as a "key". I mounted mine on dash within easy reach of driver and passanger.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Man, if you could draw up a diagram of sorts.....I will donate some coin to BRC in your name?

I am about to go through this process twice (we are building two buggies) and i have a basic wiring diagram down...but I like your thouroughness, and would love to follow suit for the most part if you dont mind?
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy_phil View Post
Will be watching this one! I used to hate wiring but now it interests me

I used this master shutoff switch from 12voltguy. I like it, turns on and off easily, quality built and turn it a bit further and the dial itself comes off acting as a "key". I mounted mine on dash within easy reach of driver and passanger.
i prefer those shut off switches you have pictured here to the ones on the panel the OP is using. they are simple to operate and good for things like fuel pump shutoff that you may need to turn off when your rig is upside down. fumble proof, and can be easily switched off when using gloves.
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Sjracer, exactly! With the aircraft switches for my ingition and fuel pump and the nice easy 12voltguy master power dial I can have the rig shut right down in like 2 seconds.

@supersize, you should add these aircraft covers to your important switches. A fast down swipe and there off!
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Sjracer, exactly! With the aircraft switches for my ingition and fuel pump and the nice easy 12voltguy master power dial I can have the rig shut right down in like 2 seconds.

@supersize, you should add these aircraft covers to your important switches. A fast down swipe and there off!

I have a love hate with the look of the red covers, I will have them on the arm winch but aside from my fans I can't think of what I need to shut off quickly. The second fuel pump wire is only for if number 1 takes a turd that is controlled off the ECM.


My confusion with the master switch is that with my 12voltguy winch and dual battery panel does it also not act as a master shut off? I assume not with how the "emer" is laid out it is for jump starting the first battery from the second,

looks more to just start one battery with the second. I don't have my 12volt guy panel yet to be sure.


If indeed to wire a dual battery shut off as well there will be a crap ton of large gauge wires on this thing running behind my dash. .. Not so fun to deal with.


Trying to find wire by the foot and in certain colors is turning out to be a pain. if I need a 10-12 gauge wire it seems easy to buy it by the foot but the color selection falls off the map.

Where as the 14 gauge can be found in many colors but only by the spool starting at 50 feet.

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Old 03-17-2012, 10:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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you should look into battery cut off switches like used in NHRA. they can be lever actuated so one pull of the emergency lever can disconnect your batteries from everything. keep in mind that you should have an emergency ignition cut off that is easy to operate and will positively kill all power to the computer, ignition coils and fuel pump.

i'm liking that 12vguy power panel more and more, fuses right on the front, easy to use switches, keyed ign switch.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice thread...good info...
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I am still waiting in my panel, soon as it arives I'll be back at it.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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In for some more replies about this. I am planning a buggy build within the year, once I get home from overseas and the wiring is something that I wont have to wonder about on the trail.

Brian
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Your panel left on Friday. According to UPS you'll have it tomorrow.

Thanks Again
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Your panel left on Friday. According to UPS you'll have it tomorrow.

Thanks Again
No thank you! Super excited about this thing!


Looks amazing, ill start playing with it this week and post some pics as the console gets figured out. I will be posting and figuring out a diagram and looking for feedback as I go real soon.

[IMG][/IMG]




-Shawn

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Old 05-18-2012, 08:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This thread will teach me alot. Thanks for posting up. Got any updates?
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:01 PM   #24 (permalink)
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This thread will teach me alot. Thanks for posting up. Got any updates?
just got the hinged relay/fuse/ circuit panel made, the console the switch panel is getting mounted on is getting finished up.


I will come through on this, just some slow progress at the moment, stupid life gets in the way of time
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #25 (permalink)
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slow progress at the moment, stupid life gets in the way of time
No sweat. I know what you mean. :nod:
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