Wiring distribution block - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

hansonian · 03-20-2012, 10:11 AM

I've got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler LJ that I want to add a extra fuse/distribution block too. I want to have the new block only be powered when the ignition is on.

My question is where would I need to tap into to get power for the new block or is this something I should just run hot from the battery? I'm only going to be running some aux lights and a couple powered 12v plugs internally off of it, maybe a winch in the future. Is there a formula I can use to determine the gauge of wire I should use?

I'd really like to do this right the first time which is why I'm asking. I tried the search and while I did answer some other questions it didn't provide everything I needed.

Thanks

avery4jc · 03-20-2012, 12:44 PM

For something like this you can't simply find ignition hot power and tap into it. You need to use an ignition hot source to trigger a relay, the relay then draws fused power straight from the battery to power your distribution block.

As far as the bus bar goes here are some ideas on this link. You would want a "ganged" setup so you can power the whole setup with one hot wire from your ignition switched relay.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/conten...use_panel.html

carslut · 03-20-2012, 11:24 PM

shoot a pm over to seabass44 he has this kind of stuff under his belt.

http://www.12voltguy.com/home.php?cat=259

SeaBass44

usmcdoc14 · 03-22-2012, 04:48 AM

Find an ignition on only wire that is factory. usualy the radio a cig lighter or other shit. MARK this wire as switching and ONLY use it for SWITCHING relays.

In other words: do not use it to power ANYTHING more than what it was supposed to from the factory

Run that wire to 85 on the relay

30 = fused power from the battery
87 (and sometimes there is a 2nd pole labeled 87a) = lights or whatever you want to power. In this case your fuse block.
This is the circuit that is completed when power is applied to:
85 = positive used to close the relay
86 = ground

Just remember to fuse before the relay (close to the battery) and not to exceed your amp draw for the relay with the fuse block. With your lights and shit that will add up quick and you may need to run a larger soleniod or just individualy relay each item.

As for your lights: I would run those hot (direct bat or direct to fuse block) and have the switch be powered by an ignition hot wire and THAT trips the relay.

hansonian · 03-22-2012, 08:50 AM

Thanks for all the info. To be honest it seems a bit more complicated than I initially thought. I'm a fan of doing it right the first time so I guess I need to do some more planning.

I think I'll pick up a box from 12voltguy.com and start drawing out my schematic.

What's the "right" connector to use to splice additional wire onto the switches I have? Would a standard butt connector with some shrink tubing on it be good or should I use the blade connectors? I'm not a electrician but I want to learn to do this the proper way and not end up in the ghetto fab wiring thread.

Thanks again for the info.

usmcdoc14 · 03-23-2012, 05:25 PM

cut and splice with either a correctly crimped butt connector or solder and heat shrink.

resqme · 03-25-2012, 12:23 PM

I like the painless wiring block.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/

All of these are good suggestions and I like to support Pirate vendors, so 12voltguy is also a great option!

rb70383 · 03-28-2012, 12:50 AM

I use the cheap butt connectors for my splices since I have them but with a trick. I cut the insulation off so its just the metal connector. Strip the wire slightly longer then the metal and overlap the 2 wires inside the connector. Crimp down and it is basically a "parrallel splice." Little bit of solder and then the adhesive lined heat shrink if under the hood. If not I do use the single ply heat shrink inside.

Some good reading here:
http://madelectrical.com/index.shtml

yyc_ranger_4x4 · 03-28-2012, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hansonian

I'm only going to be running some aux lights and a couple powered 12v plugs internally off of it, maybe a winch in the future.

Do not run a winch off a junction block! Run those leads directly back to the battery! Winches can draw in excess of 300A. There isn't a junction block that will fit in your vehicle that can handle that kind of current.

dspin · 03-28-2012, 01:21 PM

You can power a relay on a distribution block for your winch but run the heavy gauge cables directly to the battery. This makes wiring it into you cab for in cab controls a little easier.

Old Scout · 03-28-2012, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yyc_ranger_4x4

Do not run a winch off a junction block! Run those leads directly back to the battery! Winches can draw in excess of 300A. There isn't a junction block that will fit in your vehicle that can handle that kind of current.

600 amps:
http://bluesea.com/category/82/35/products/2104

usmcdoc14 · 03-29-2012, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by resqme

I like the painless wiring block.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/

All of these are good suggestions and I like to support Pirate vendors, so 12voltguy is also a great option!

That same box can be found for near free in an suzuki sami in the junk yard

03-20-2012, 10:11 AM	#1 (permalink)
hansonian Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Member # 168084 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 44	Wiring distribution block I've got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler LJ that I want to add a extra fuse/distribution block too. I want to have the new block only be powered when the ignition is on. My question is where would I need to tap into to get power for the new block or is this something I should just run hot from the battery? I'm only going to be running some aux lights and a couple powered 12v plugs internally off of it, maybe a winch in the future. Is there a formula I can use to determine the gauge of wire I should use? I'd really like to do this right the first time which is why I'm asking. I tried the search and while I did answer some other questions it didn't provide everything I needed. Thanks

03-20-2012, 12:44 PM	#2 (permalink)
avery4jc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Member # 76583 Location: Fresno, California Posts: 385	For something like this you can't simply find ignition hot power and tap into it. You need to use an ignition hot source to trigger a relay, the relay then draws fused power straight from the battery to power your distribution block. As far as the bus bar goes here are some ideas on this link. You would want a "ganged" setup so you can power the whole setup with one hot wire from your ignition switched relay. http://www.wiringproducts.com/conten...use_panel.html __________________ K10 TBI350/700r-241/205 dblr 14FF/5.38's/Grizzly/Discs~'79 Ford HP60/5.38's/ARB/35 spline cromo's Last edited by avery4jc; 03-20-2012 at 12:49 PM.

03-20-2012, 11:24 PM	#3 (permalink)
carslut plasma dust huffer Join Date: Jan 2004 Member # 25823 Location: USA Posts: 1,859	shoot a pm over to seabass44 he has this kind of stuff under his belt. http://www.12voltguy.com/home.php?cat=259 SeaBass44 __________________ *Duramax and LS based motor tuning* Offering in House Custom CNC Plasma cutting services, we can take your idea from design to your doorstep. have a sketch you want to become parts for your project? pm me, i can help. parts are shipping out daily "it makes the mach5 look like a vagina" - ARCHER

03-22-2012, 04:48 AM	#4 (permalink)
usmcdoc14 Fistful of Boomstick Join Date: Aug 2002 Member # 13344 Location: Norfawk, VA Posts: 12,283	Find an ignition on only wire that is factory. usualy the radio a cig lighter or other shit. MARK this wire as switching and ONLY use it for SWITCHING relays. In other words: do not use it to power ANYTHING more than what it was supposed to from the factory Run that wire to 85 on the relay 30 = fused power from the battery 87 (and sometimes there is a 2nd pole labeled 87a) = lights or whatever you want to power. In this case your fuse block. This is the circuit that is completed when power is applied to: 85 = positive used to close the relay 86 = ground Just remember to fuse before the relay (close to the battery) and not to exceed your amp draw for the relay with the fuse block. With your lights and shit that will add up quick and you may need to run a larger soleniod or just individualy relay each item. As for your lights: I would run those hot (direct bat or direct to fuse block) and have the switch be powered by an ignition hot wire and THAT trips the relay. __________________ Doc-14 Tactical Products: When it absolutely, positively needs to be made from random crap found in the back of my garage. You cant ban knowledge, learn to make your own guns right Here. New York, Colorado, Maryland, Conneticut….is your state next? Yes it is. Write, Vote and Fight.

03-23-2012, 05:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
usmcdoc14 Fistful of Boomstick Join Date: Aug 2002 Member # 13344 Location: Norfawk, VA Posts: 12,283	cut and splice with either a correctly crimped butt connector or solder and heat shrink. __________________ Doc-14 Tactical Products: When it absolutely, positively needs to be made from random crap found in the back of my garage. You cant ban knowledge, learn to make your own guns right Here. New York, Colorado, Maryland, Conneticut….is your state next? Yes it is. Write, Vote and Fight.

03-22-2012, 08:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
hansonian Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Member # 168084 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 44	Thanks for all the info. To be honest it seems a bit more complicated than I initially thought. I'm a fan of doing it right the first time so I guess I need to do some more planning. I think I'll pick up a box from 12voltguy.com and start drawing out my schematic. What's the "right" connector to use to splice additional wire onto the switches I have? Would a standard butt connector with some shrink tubing on it be good or should I use the blade connectors? I'm not a electrician but I want to learn to do this the proper way and not end up in the ghetto fab wiring thread. Thanks again for the info.

03-25-2012, 12:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
resqme Zeus of the Sluice Join Date: Aug 2003 Member # 21815 Location: Pollock Pines, CA Posts: 3,369	I like the painless wiring block. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/ All of these are good suggestions and I like to support Pirate vendors, so 12voltguy is also a great option! __________________ WWDD? N6YBH - "If you need a tool and don't buy it, you will ultimately find that you have paid for it but don't have it". -Henry Ford Use Goodsearch and support the Rubicon Trail Foundation.

03-28-2012, 12:50 AM	#8 (permalink)
rb70383 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Member # 102322 Posts: 13	I use the cheap butt connectors for my splices since I have them but with a trick. I cut the insulation off so its just the metal connector. Strip the wire slightly longer then the metal and overlap the 2 wires inside the connector. Crimp down and it is basically a "parrallel splice." Little bit of solder and then the adhesive lined heat shrink if under the hood. If not I do use the single ply heat shrink inside. Some good reading here: http://madelectrical.com/index.shtml

03-28-2012, 01:21 PM	#10 (permalink)
dspin Granite Guru Join Date: Jul 2002 Member # 12920 Location: Sunnyvale, ca Posts: 996	You can power a relay on a distribution block for your winch but run the heavy gauge cables directly to the battery. This makes wiring it into you cab for in cab controls a little easier.

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