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Old 03-28-2012, 09:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Battery kill switch wiring?

So I'd like to wire a battery kill switch into my current buggy to be safe. Those of you that have them, have you wired your starter and winch through the kill switch also or directly to the battery? I'm just thinking that those electrical loads might be too high for the battery switch.

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Old 03-28-2012, 10:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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On the race cars we seen at the track...the kill switches would kill the ignition and the electrical to the rest of the vehicle...which would in turn stop the starter from engaging due to them being relay driven. Most of these switches are able to take high current for a short time....IE starters. I wouldn't run a winch through one.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I run a high amp marine battery switch, wiring goes from switch to a hd Blue Seas distribution terminal. This goes to my winch , starter etc. I am running dual Optimas and a 225 amp alternator in my Ls6 TJ. My battery switch can be reached easily from my drivers seat
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I run a high amp marine battery switch, wiring goes from switch to a hd Blue Seas distribution terminal. This goes to my winch , starter etc. I am running dual Optimas and a 225 amp alternator in my Ls6 TJ. My battery switch can be reached easily from my drivers seat
same but I have a fuse.
batterys, isolator/combiner, High amp marine switch with a cable pull (not shown in this image), 500A fuse, rest of main system.


Fuse being in case the winch does something retarded or I manage to cut the main power feed to the front of the JK.

My alternator does not have the ability to kill like normal so I have a fuel pump kill on my dash as well.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Where'd you get the 500A fuse? Thats a good idea.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Where'd you get the 500A fuse? Thats a good idea.

west marine or any boat place worth a damn will have the holder and fuses.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Since I'm left handed, my brain works different. I put the switch on the ground side.
I did not want some welding cable with 12volts to short out in my dash..
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I am running this flaming river one. 2500 amp surge rating.

I run everything through it. I only ever really use the winch to cinch the axle anyway.

Should be fine for normal pulls though.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1003/
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I used an old school CAT ignition switch. I figured if it can handle the current required to start a diesel motor it should be able to handle my engine/winch. It has a convenient key that I can remove if I want and I can get spares fairly easily.
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i ran 2g from the battery to a 500 amp inline fuse to a 300 amp continuous 500 intermittent main switch on my dash that has a key you can turn and pull it out, EVERYTHING is ran after that including both suck down winches and my main winch and starter. i wont ever be using my winch and starter at the same time so i think it will be ok, my buggy is still sitting in the shop waiting to be finished so no actual on the trail experience with the setup so take it for what its worth.

i did this so when i roll over, get out to hike off the trail down to the creek, or in my tent sleeping, i could kill ALL power to my rig.

the question i have though is should i run my chevy 1 wire alternator to the distribution block after the switch or should i bypass the kill switch and run the alternator straight to the battery, im thinking maybe the alternator will provide power to the system and it will stay running even after i pull the kill switch?
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Old 05-11-2015, 06:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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the question i have though is should i run my chevy 1 wire alternator to the distribution block after the switch or should i bypass the kill switch and run the alternator straight to the battery, im thinking maybe the alternator will provide power to the system and it will stay running even after i pull the kill switch?
Bringing this back from the dead.

I'm at the exact same place as rockyota.

1 wire alternator on a rig with no electric fuel pump. I have a battery master disconnect switch with two lugs that I'd like to use (blue sea).

Will the truck keep running off the alternator?

Will throwing the disconnect while the truck is running damage the alternator due to some voltage spike? There's disconnects out there with an alternator shorting contact and a resistor to protect the alternator.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You have to kill the excite wire to stop the alt from making power.

I like the 3 wire alt vs the one wire version..
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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You have to kill the excite wire to stop the alt from making power.

I like the 3 wire alt vs the one wire version..
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Yep and if it's not on switched power it can drain your battery. I'm going to run my switch on the negative side of the battery. I got a Gigavac switch from Waytek.
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:25 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yep and if it's not on switched power it can drain your battery. I'm going to run my switch on the negative side of the battery. I got a Gigavac switch from Waytek.
Running the switch on the negative side of the battery means it is only a battery disconnect, it will NOT kill the engine.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Running the switch on the negative side of the battery means it is only a battery disconnect, it will NOT kill the engine.
Hmm it won't kill the fuel pump?
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Hmm it won't kill the fuel pump?
The alternator will continue to provide power with the engine running as it grounds to the engine block, which (almost always) grounds to the chassis. ie: it will maintain its own completed circuit even without the battery.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:07 AM   #18 (permalink)
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It seems like the common solution is to install the disconnect between the vehicle and the alternator/battery. This keeps the alternator permanently connected to the battery (fused of course), so the alt will always have a load and the rig will still die with the switch shut off.

Edit: I'm thinking I may either install a second switch for the alternator if I find it drains the batteries, or I'll just pull the fuse. I may also get a dual disconnect switch to break the + and - to keep the alt from draining the batteries. I'll have to draw it out and see.

I've got two single disconnect switches. It might be good to have the one between the rig and alt/battery, which would kill the rig for sure, then the second one directly off the negative to ensure the batteries don't get drained by the alternator. A decal stating operate switch one before switch two...
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Last edited by Muckin_Slusher; 05-13-2015 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:06 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The alternator will continue to provide power with the engine running as it grounds to the engine block, which (almost always) grounds to the chassis. ie: it will maintain its own completed circuit even without the battery.
Yes I see how that works but if the fuel pump is grounded to the battery, not the chassis it should stop the engine. But thinking about it that might not be the best way. Anyways thanks, I have to think about where to install my switch.
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Yes I see how that works but if the fuel pump is grounded to the battery, not the chassis it should stop the engine. But thinking about it that might not be the best way. Anyways thanks, I have to think about where to install my switch.
Making sure that your metal pump, mounted to your metal chassis/tank/etc, isn't accidentally grounded otherwise becomes difficult. I've found for kill switch purposes you're better off putting the disconnect on the positive side, and making sure your alternator charge wire is run to the battery side of the disconnect.
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:55 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Mine is currently on the positive side of the battery and the first thing off the battery so even shutting it off won't kill the engine. I have though of routing the alternator straight to the battery so the disconnect should theoretically kill the engine then install a second disconnect on the negative under the hood area to kill everything for long term non-use.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:44 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Mine is currently on the positive side of the battery and the first thing off the battery so even shutting it off won't kill the engine. I have though of routing the alternator straight to the battery so the disconnect should theoretically kill the engine then install a second disconnect on the negative under the hood area to kill everything for long term non-use.
Yes, you will have to run the charge wire to the battery side of the disconnect if you want to use it for a kill switch.
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Old 05-15-2015, 01:44 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Making sure that your metal pump, mounted to your metal chassis/tank/etc, isn't accidentally grounded otherwise becomes difficult. I've found for kill switch purposes you're better off putting the disconnect on the positive side, and making sure your alternator charge wire is run to the battery side of the disconnect.
stupid electrons finding complete circuits. Guess I will just have a battery disconnect, not that I need a complete kill switch. I do need to make sure my alternator excite is on a off switch,.
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