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Old 03-28-2012, 10:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Battery kill switch wiring?

So I'd like to wire a battery kill switch into my current buggy to be safe. Those of you that have them, have you wired your starter and winch through the kill switch also or directly to the battery? I'm just thinking that those electrical loads might be too high for the battery switch.

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Old 03-28-2012, 11:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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On the race cars we seen at the track...the kill switches would kill the ignition and the electrical to the rest of the vehicle...which would in turn stop the starter from engaging due to them being relay driven. Most of these switches are able to take high current for a short time....IE starters. I wouldn't run a winch through one.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I run a high amp marine battery switch, wiring goes from switch to a hd Blue Seas distribution terminal. This goes to my winch , starter etc. I am running dual Optimas and a 225 amp alternator in my Ls6 TJ. My battery switch can be reached easily from my drivers seat
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep09 View Post
I run a high amp marine battery switch, wiring goes from switch to a hd Blue Seas distribution terminal. This goes to my winch , starter etc. I am running dual Optimas and a 225 amp alternator in my Ls6 TJ. My battery switch can be reached easily from my drivers seat
same but I have a fuse.
batterys, isolator/combiner, High amp marine switch with a cable pull (not shown in this image), 500A fuse, rest of main system.


Fuse being in case the winch does something retarded or I manage to cut the main power feed to the front of the JK.

My alternator does not have the ability to kill like normal so I have a fuel pump kill on my dash as well.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Where'd you get the 500A fuse? Thats a good idea.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Where'd you get the 500A fuse? Thats a good idea.

west marine or any boat place worth a damn will have the holder and fuses.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Since I'm left handed, my brain works different. I put the switch on the ground side.
I did not want some welding cable with 12volts to short out in my dash..
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I am running this flaming river one. 2500 amp surge rating.

I run everything through it. I only ever really use the winch to cinch the axle anyway.

Should be fine for normal pulls though.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1003/
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I used an old school CAT ignition switch. I figured if it can handle the current required to start a diesel motor it should be able to handle my engine/winch. It has a convenient key that I can remove if I want and I can get spares fairly easily.
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i ran 2g from the battery to a 500 amp inline fuse to a 300 amp continuous 500 intermittent main switch on my dash that has a key you can turn and pull it out, EVERYTHING is ran after that including both suck down winches and my main winch and starter. i wont ever be using my winch and starter at the same time so i think it will be ok, my buggy is still sitting in the shop waiting to be finished so no actual on the trail experience with the setup so take it for what its worth.

i did this so when i roll over, get out to hike off the trail down to the creek, or in my tent sleeping, i could kill ALL power to my rig.

the question i have though is should i run my chevy 1 wire alternator to the distribution block after the switch or should i bypass the kill switch and run the alternator straight to the battery, im thinking maybe the alternator will provide power to the system and it will stay running even after i pull the kill switch?
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