My new to me M8000 will not run....

[1981CJ7]

So I purchased an used M8000 winch.

Initially, when installed there would be a click only with no action when using switch in the pull direction, nothing in the other direction. So we corrected the wiring to the solenoid pack and at that point it would click in both directions.

Baffled by this, we disengaged the drum and spun it with the switch depressed and low and behold, the winch would start working in both directions, for a while and then it would stop and go back into click mode.

My dad suggested the brushes were dirty, so I removed the cap/cover and found that it was very dirty inside. I cleaned it with electical contact cleaner and put the cover back on. When I tried it, it worked and I am thinking great, and then it went back into click mode.

So I left it alone, came back the next day and cleaned it again and it did the same thing, except this time after it quit running I saw a little puff of smoke.

Here is a video of how it does what it does:

http://youtu.be/hPD_DNcVIc0

So, I am going to take the entire motor apart, maybe replace the brushes and armature (sp) and try it again....unless some electrical guru suggests the motor is probably toast and it would be better use of time to just replace it.

If that is the case, can I "upgrade" it to a 6 HP motor like this one:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-7009-n...pline-6hp.aspx

or will that be a problem and I have to put back it an 4.5 HP replacement?

Thanks for any and all advise.

[Valley Auto]

If only one solenoid in each direction is working it will just click as well. Did you take apart all the bus bars the connect them and clean/sand them up?

[1981CJ7]

Originally Posted by Valley Auto

Did you take apart all the bus bars the connect them and clean/sand them up?

Not just yet, only cleaned with contact cleaner so far.

[Valley Auto]

Take a couple pictures and then take it apart. Sometimes the power studs on the solenoid break internally in the solenoids.

[TorqueRanger]

Looks like a dead spot in the motor... But try jumping the power in order to test motor and solenoid..

[xmptsunami]

Originally Posted by TorqueRanger

Looks like a dead spot in the motor... But try jumping the power in order to test motor and solenoid..

IF YOU DO THIS, MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND WHERE "THE POWER" IS SUPPOSED TO GO.

Nice suggestion there torqueranger, maybe you should have explained how to do it SAFELY, or the dangers involved if you screw up, since the OP obviously isn't a total winch wiring pro like you must be.

Edit:

[1981CJ7]

So what is the right way to test the power?

I am an electrical idiot, so I would like to be alive after doing this.

Dead spot in the motor = replace motor?

[xmptsunami]

Originally Posted by 1981CJ7

So what is the right way to test the power?

I am an electrical idiot, so I would like to be alive after doing this.

Dead spot in the motor = replace motor?

Permanent magnet motors, like those found on atv's, have only 2 posts, so it's really easy to use booster cables to test the motor. Unfortunately your motor isn't a permanent magnet type. The good news is that it's way better, but it has three posts, making testing somewhat more difficult.

There's no way I could explaing it better than Bill, so I won't even try.

You should find all your answers here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/8274/8274.htm

*near the bottom there's a specific testing procedure.

Enjoy.

Edit: Oh, and I wouldn't jump right into buying a new motor until I have proved the old one was faulty. I don't believe that replacing the armature would be cost effective compared to just replacing the whole motor.

[1981CJ7]

Originally Posted by xmptsunami

Permanent magnet motors...........the whole motor.

Thank you for the assistance, very helpful!

[1981CJ7]

Here is the latest on the winch.

Friday, I did as a rep from Warn suggested and added a ground from the solenoid plate to the winch motor ground. Unfortunately that did not help, but at the time I did not rule out the repair because my battery was dead.

Saturday I took the motor apart and polished the brushes and commentator (sp) because they were corroded and dirty. The motor didn't appear to be burnt in any way, just dirty. I also made sure all the heavy connectors between the solenoids were cleaned. After reassembling the motor and charging my battery overnight I still only get a click when using the remote in either direction. If I free spool the drum and start rotating the drum and hold the switch it will start to run, slowly, and run until I let go of the switch. It may or may not run if I try it the other direction and then will eventually stop running and just start clicking again.

So I am thinking that it has got to be the solenoids. We have tested them and they appear to be closing but maybe the connection is weak. I have looked for these older style solenoids and cannot find them.

I have not tried to jump the motor to see if it works, will try that this week.

Any thoughts on the Albright/superwinch solenoid?

[YJTypeR]

I had the same problem a while back. Unfortunately it's been quite a while and I don't remember if it was the windings going into the armature or commutator that lost connection. I took the motor to a place that rebuilt starters and alternators and they soldered it back together, has worked great for a few years since then.

I found this by probing for continuity between the different parts of the armature etc. I found a visually obvious break from this.

Mine was caused by the internal brake coming apart and jamming, which over worked the motor. Probably overheated.

Apologies for lack of proper terminology

[scooter141]

Lead "a" and "f1" connected together.
+12v to "f2" should make it turn one direction.

Lead "a" and "f2" connected togather.
+12v to "f1" is the other direction.

You can use jumper cables to hook up positive and negative to winch and solonoids for testing only.


Todd S.

[InstaGator]

Yes the 9.5xp motor fits the M8000. Makes that winch a beast!

[1981CJ7]

Originally Posted by YJTypeR

I had the same problem a while back. Unfortunately it's been quite a while and I don't remember if it was the windings going into the armature or commutator that lost connection. I took the motor to a place that rebuilt starters and alternators and they soldered it back together, has worked great for a few years since then.

I found this by probing for continuity between the different parts of the armature etc. I found a visually obvious break from this.

Mine was caused by the internal brake coming apart and jamming, which over worked the motor. Probably overheated.

Apologies for lack of proper terminology

I also took the motor apart to check for continuity at the commutator and found a break, but there was another break on the opposite side as well and because I am ignorant to this subject I thought that maybe it was built that way so I put it all back together.

Thinking about it now, I figure that since it is wound together, I should be able to touch any point on the commutator and another point and it should show a value on the meter and when it did it showed 4.98.

So, there is a small motor place up the road and I am going to drop the motor off with them and see if there is a possible repair.