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Old 04-07-2012, 02:57 PM   #126 (permalink)
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As much as it's overused as a joke on this site, I really have to say that it does indeed need more triangulation if you plan on that being a roll cage and not just something to frame up the body with.
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:24 PM   #127 (permalink)
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I totally agree with you. It`s not finished yet...

But i won`t overdo it, it just weights a few hundred pounds and the chances that i`m really going to roll it are very low...
So it`s mostly something to frame up the body with that doubles as a bit of protection...

I was planning on two more crossbars, one above the window frame and one on the rear. I think this should be enough, isn`t it?
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:37 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Made some body sheets out of cardboard to check the space on the inside. It`s more than enough just not where it`s needed. But i`ll find a way to figure it out...





The radiator fit`s besides the engine:



Besides the seat is a lot of room for the controls, electrics and stuff...

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Old 04-09-2012, 06:15 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Starting to look like something now. Looks good
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:47 AM   #130 (permalink)
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i was skeptical at first, but this is turning out to be a great project! i like it.

one question: is there going to be any sort of firewall between you and the engine?
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:56 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Put the wiring loom back together to see if it fit`s or if i have to lengthen it:





It seems to fit except of a few small things like the wiper or a few lights...
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:05 AM   #132 (permalink)
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i was skeptical at first, but this is turning out to be a great project! i like it.

one question: is there going to be any sort of firewall between you and the engine?
Thanks. I`m planning on build a full enclosure around the engine and radiator. Basically from behind the drivers seat to the rear. Don`t like the idea of an exploding radiator behind me...
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:50 AM   #133 (permalink)
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ok, that makes sense.

i'll just wait for the pictures and enjoy the build. carry on!
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:09 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Thanks. I`m planning on build a full enclosure around the engine and radiator. Basically from behind the drivers seat to the rear. Don`t like the idea of an exploding radiator behind me...
You going to try and use the hot air for heat in the cabin?
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:27 AM   #135 (permalink)
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I thought about that, but there`s so much room at the inside, i`ll just use the heater and stuff from the car...
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Got some consumables today, so i can continue working:



Also got the leaf spring:



This is how i`ll mount the rear one. Of course at the right angle:

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Old 04-11-2012, 12:46 PM   #137 (permalink)
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First i bought some steel today:



Then i started with the spring mounts:



This is how they`ll look. Still a lot of bracing to do:





Also figured out a way to mount the clutch pedal. I even can use the oem cable:





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Old 04-12-2012, 11:41 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Tacked together the rear spring mount and put the weight on it. Seems the angle is not much off, it could be about right when all the weight is on it...



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Old 04-14-2012, 11:53 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Got a lot of stuff done today. First we mounted the leaf springs:



Bent up some ubolts:





And it`s finally sitting on it`s own weight:





And a suspension test:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf09nc_gZPQ&list=UU1xBZ9_xJdm5_1Ph3OzZ2WQ& index=1&feature=plcp[/video]

Started over with the engine mounts:





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Old 04-14-2012, 11:54 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Also mounted the bearings for the driveshafts so i can order the chains tomorrow...









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Old 04-14-2012, 12:13 PM   #141 (permalink)
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wow crazy work.
I am very interested to see this thing in action.
Keep up the amazing work!
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:01 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Impressive engineering.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:12 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Maybe you guys have a better quality of threaded rod over there but around here seeing it in use on a project is an instant and obvious sign of a death trap.
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Maybe you guys have a better quality of threaded rod over there but around here seeing it in use on a project is an instant and obvious sign of a death trap.
I don't think the Mini Hägglund will be moving very fast Unless maybe he comes up with some beafy-er tracks.

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Old 04-14-2012, 04:17 PM   #145 (permalink)
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LOL @ the suspension test
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:39 PM   #146 (permalink)
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i'm waiting for this to be in the epic fail thread. i just don't see this working at all. prove me wrong though. please!
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:06 AM   #147 (permalink)
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Maybe you guys have a better quality of threaded rod over there but around here seeing it in use on a project is an instant and obvious sign of a death trap.
It`s just the standard grade 8 stuff. It won`t be moving fast, it weights a lot less than a car, so i don`t see any problems there...


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i'm waiting for this to be in the epic fail thread. i just don't see this working at all. prove me wrong though. please!
Well, the only thing that i`m not sure if it`s working are the tracks. If they don`t work, i`ll come up with another design. The rest of the stuff doesn`t need to be changed with other tracks, so this will be fine...
Be sure that i`ll prove you wrong. I won`t stop until this thing is working properly...
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:54 AM   #148 (permalink)
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I'm not sure why you decided to support the CV axle with a bearing block. the axles do not need support. Maybe I'm missing something there, but that's usually how CV axles work. I realize you probably don't have a tube bender or notcher, that would really help you with your cage design and clean the look up much more. The flat stock you used to hold the bearing block in place is going to bend as soon as any torque is applied.

I take it you are using the pipe on the front of the subframe to support something. i think i'd tie it in better or use something a little more structural there.

I think your tire choice is not going to work. since they have a round profile instead of a flat profile i think the track is going to wonder off. I don't see how the tracks will ever stay on for more then a few feet and then you'll have to field repair it every few feet.

I've operated track hoes / excavators, and there is a lot of stress on the tracks when you try turning. I'd take a look at those more closely to help in your track design. you'll also notice on tanks the suspension is built into the track wheels, not the body. The body could lean over into the tracks on a side hill.

I think it could be cool and work well.

Does the transmission / transfercase have differential in it? Are you going to have to weld the differential in the transfercase to get it to work right?
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:39 AM   #149 (permalink)
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I'm not sure why you decided to support the CV axle with a bearing block. the axles do not need support. Maybe I'm missing something there, but that's usually how CV axles work. I realize you probably don't have a tube bender or notcher, that would really help you with your cage design and clean the look up much more. The flat stock you used to hold the bearing block in place is going to bend as soon as any torque is applied.

I take it you are using the pipe on the front of the subframe to support something. i think i'd tie it in better or use something a little more structural there.

I think your tire choice is not going to work. since they have a round profile instead of a flat profile i think the track is going to wonder off. I don't see how the tracks will ever stay on for more then a few feet and then you'll have to field repair it every few feet.

I've operated track hoes / excavators, and there is a lot of stress on the tracks when you try turning. I'd take a look at those more closely to help in your track design. you'll also notice on tanks the suspension is built into the track wheels, not the body. The body could lean over into the tracks on a side hill.

I think it could be cool and work well.

Does the transmission / transfercase have differential in it? Are you going to have to weld the differential in the transfercase to get it to work right?
The cv-shaft is supported because the chain sprocket is mounted there. The mount is not finished yet. When everything`s tacked together and finished i`ll pull it apart and weld everything up. I`ll add gussets too...

I`m not sure what you are talking about the tires and their profile. I`ll just try if the tracks work or not and then start over if it doesn`t work.

The body can`t lean into the tracks, because there are bumpstops built into the spring perches...

The transfercase doesn`t have a differential. But i`ll weld both diffs when it`s finished...
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:22 AM   #150 (permalink)
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I agree that the bracket holding the bearing is going to bend easily. Why did you not just connect the axles directly to the drive sprockets? I'd hold off on welding the diffs until it's complete and working. If you have problems getting the articulated joint working, you could always just run the front part as a little tracked buddy and use some sort of brake to turn with the open diff.
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