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Old 04-25-2012, 07:52 AM   #176 (permalink)
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looks awesome, can't wait to see it running
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:05 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Thanks man, me too...

Finished the gas tank and seat mount today. First i finished welding the tank:



Then i placed it in the chassis and made some mounts:



The filler neck fits perfect, i just have to shorten it:



Then i started measuring for seat height:



And started fabbing some mounts:



Mocked up:



And welded everything:





Looks like i could be able to test drive it saturday or monday...
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:22 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Maybe you have already done it but I would leak test that tank with water or pressurized air before filling it with fuel, especially if it's mounted under the seat.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:23 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Was tested with about 7psi...
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:08 PM   #180 (permalink)
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First i mounted the tank and seat:



Then i started with some sheetmetal:





[/QUOTE]
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:18 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Dieses Projekt wird gut voran
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93 yota pickup, adding another liter soon
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:35 AM   #182 (permalink)
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Mini Hägglund first start - YouTube

I`m back in the shop...
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:40 AM   #183 (permalink)
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nice. i'll bet that's a good feeling
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:06 PM   #184 (permalink)
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very very cool
good work!
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:48 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. It`s an awesome feeling to have it running...

Here`s the missing update. First i finished the right hand side sheetmetal mount:



Then i plumbed the fuel pump and filter:



Welded the sprockets:





A long list to work:



Clutch pedal:



Windshield and gauge cluster:



Then the fun begins. All that electrical crap has to go in:

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Old 04-28-2012, 12:49 PM   #186 (permalink)
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Everything plugged in. I`m going to clean that up tomorrow:





Then i could start it, as seen on the video. It runs fine, except of some leaking oil. I`ll have to take a look where it comes from tomorrow...

Then i started with the temporary brake steering:





The list looks a lot better now:



I`m going to test drive it tomorrow. Can`t wait to see what works and what not...
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:49 PM   #187 (permalink)
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That fuel tank looks very close to the exhaust manifold. Not going to is it?
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:05 PM   #188 (permalink)
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so you finished both tracks?
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:15 AM   #189 (permalink)
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remember no while driving.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:54 PM   #190 (permalink)
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your flapper needs a counterweight.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:18 PM   #191 (permalink)
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I badly want to see this thing in action. Shit's rad.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:49 AM   #192 (permalink)
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Here`s the Update about the last 3 days. First i finished the second drive sprocket :



Then i made the track tensioners:





And put on the first track:



Finished the second track:



And put it on:



Then it was time for the first drive. So i put it in gear, sat in the drivers seat, pressed down the clutch and started it. Unfortunately the clutch didn`t work, so it started driving and i was going in direction of our wintergarten. Luckily i could kill it just before i hit something...
So the next day i put the transmission apart und fixed the clutch:



Then i kept testing it, and shortened the tracks to the right size:



It wouldn`t work, so i put on some guides:



Then it really started to work. I could drive a bit and the tracks wouldn`t come off. Unfortunately one of the screws punctured a tire when we wanted to take some videos. But i got it on video when the tires was punctured and how i drove back into the shop:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPwECZgZvL0[/video]

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbEJnHGUO8s[/video]

So i`m going to buy some rubber wheels or try to put some foam or something in the ones i have. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:47 AM   #193 (permalink)
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Mini Hägglund first drive - YouTube
Mini Hägglund first drive - YouTube
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Last edited by irab88; 05-01-2012 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:30 AM   #194 (permalink)
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So i`m going to buy some rubber wheels or try to put some foam or something in the ones i have. Any suggestions?
Do you need to use rubber? Can you just use a rim or something? Metal would wear a lot slower than rubber, and the bolt ends look sharp.

Also maybe think about making runners like on a snowmobile?

Last edited by ruffryder; 05-01-2012 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:35 AM   #195 (permalink)
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one thing i noticed: it looks bouncy. are you planning on adding some shock absorbers?
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:04 PM   #196 (permalink)
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one thing i noticed: it looks bouncy. are you planning on adding some shock absorbers?
I think it is more of a rocking motion.. it might be geared really tall, ie, no small creaper gear..
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:18 PM   #197 (permalink)
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I think I would see about lowering the gear ratios in the chain drive to give it a much lower crawl ratio. That should smooth it out a bit and make it a lot less chaotic and jumpy to pull out it. As it is, you will probably never be able to take off without the drive sprockets slipping as is heard in the video and climbing anything will be a huge chore.

Like I said much earlier in the thread, I think the track system really needs a redesign. Using the bolts to drive the tracks was always a bad idea in my opinion. I wonder if you couldn't expand on the chain drive idea and use two heavy chains with welded crossbars as tracks with normal chain drive sprockets. That would be a lot more "tank-like" and probably a lot more reliable if the chain used were able to handle the stress. Just a thought.
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:14 PM   #198 (permalink)
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I think it is more of a rocking motion.. it might be geared really tall, ie, no small creaper gear..
yeah, i meant to specify shocks like this: /--\
on either side from the body to the track assemblies. and lower gears would be better, imho, but it works for now
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:11 PM   #199 (permalink)
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I think it is more of a rocking motion.. it might be geared really tall, ie, no small creaper gear..
It`s possible that i was in third gear, i`m not sure. Overall ratio should be pretty low with those small drive sprockets...
I`m also not used to the controls, so i probably used a lot too much gas...

Quote:
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I think I would see about lowering the gear ratios in the chain drive to give it a much lower crawl ratio. That should smooth it out a bit and make it a lot less chaotic and jumpy to pull out it. As it is, you will probably never be able to take off without the drive sprockets slipping as is heard in the video and climbing anything will be a huge chore.

Like I said much earlier in the thread, I think the track system really needs a redesign. Using the bolts to drive the tracks was always a bad idea in my opinion. I wonder if you couldn't expand on the chain drive idea and use two heavy chains with welded crossbars as tracks with normal chain drive sprockets. That would be a lot more "tank-like" and probably a lot more reliable if the chain used were able to handle the stress. Just a thought.
That sound is not from a slipping sprocket. There`s absolutely no slip at the drive sprockets. There wasn`t even slip with the the blown tire when the tension was way too loose...
The sound is just the sprocket hitting the bolts...

As said before, if those tracks won`t work i`ll go with a snow cat design. Two rubber strips connected by some u-stock with grousers on the inside.
But i feel like those are going to work after all the testing i`ve done...

The chain drive has to be at a 1:1 ratio, otherwise i can`t drive the rear car, because there won`t be a chain drive...
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Old 05-01-2012, 03:00 PM   #200 (permalink)
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If it makes that much noise hitting the bolts, I'd say that something isn't space quite right. If they hit that hard or have that much interference, there is a good chance something will break when it binds.
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