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Trailer build tips?

43K views 111 replies 29 participants last post by  gindy 
#1 · (Edited)
I've started collecting the bits and pieces of what will eventually be my back roads toy hauler. My plan is to build a trailer that will function as a base camp and haul our two kayaks, a dirt bike and/ or mountain bikes to camp. I plan to drag this thing behind me on highways, dirt roads and mild to moderate trails.

So far I have purchased a donor trailer and plan to use the axle, water holding tank, water heater/ shower unit, stove top and possibly a few odds and ends. It has an old RTT that I was originally planning to refurbish, but in the interest of staying focused and forward I am now planning to buy a new RTT (more on that later).

It makes sense to build the trailer box ~ 6" or so wider than my RTT in the closed poition to offer some protection. With closed dimensions of 56" x 48" I am looking at a box size of approximately 62" x 54".

Now for some questions regarding the axle track width, can anyone provide input or experience on what works or doesn't work? For now I will be primarily pulling the trailer with my 2006 LJ. My initial thought was to match the track width of my jeep, but that presents an issue with the trailer box as the inside of tire width is 49". My backwoods logic says that a wider track width on the trailer would help the trailer turn on a wider radius than the jeep, which may help the trailer better follow the path of the jeep, instead of "cutting corners?"
 
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#50 ·
You going to do a collapsible tongue, or do you not think you would use it?

(I.E. Have 2.5" square tube in the center under the cargo area, then slide 2" inside of it for the actual tongue. Then have 2 or 3 options for tounge length)

The only reason I would want this, is to collapse it for hauling both on a trailer.
 
#51 ·
I have thought about it, not sure if I'll work it in. I'm planning on the "back bone" being a continuous piece of 3/16" wall. Everything else is .120. I don't foresee trailering with the trailer, nor do I own a trailer long enough. This is primarily an exploring the country type setup, but I hope to take it on some mild wheeling trails (local stuff, rubicon, gold lake, etc)
 
#53 ·
Here is my thread from Expo portal that I started when I modified my Bantam TC-3 My '45 Bantam Resto-Mod - Expedition Portal

I replaced the axle with a Dexter 3500#. I did not go with brakes on the trailer because I didn't want to deal with adding a controller to my LJ. I run matching Moab wheels on the trailer so I had to run 1.5" spacers to clear the trailer hub. I could have enlarged the center hole in the wheels but didn't want to "ruin" them as far as putting the stock center caps in them and using them on the Jeep if I ever needed to. I will look when I get home and see if I have any pics of it loaded up behind the Jeep last month when we took it to Moab. It is about 6" narrower than the Jeep which works great since it stays in the slip stream of the Jeep pretty well.
 
#54 ·
:rainbow: websites that want you to register just to see the pics. :shaking:
 
#57 · (Edited)
Ok, here we go. There is a functional deadline for this project, the 2nd of July... I was out of town last week, so the weekend prior I went to friends house for a few hours and we were able to knock out the main frame. It was nice having a drawing that I could pull my cut dimensions from. I cut everything ahead of time and then took it to his house to utilize his shop floor and jacks to get the frame level and square. I decided to narrow the box up a bit and also decided to do the collapsible tongue.






While I was gone my springs arrived from generalspringkc.com. They are 650# capacity wrangler springs. My leaf sliders from Liquid Iron Industries also arrived, as well as my leaf mounting hardware from Barnes 4wd. Also from Barnes 4wd was a 1.25" heim set. I'm going to give it a try for a hitch as the noise of a pintle would absolutely drive me nuts. I bought a spare heim and if it simply does not work, I'll go another route.



Today was a busy day. I essentially built the frame out to a full roller and managed to strip the donor trailer and get it out of the yard. As you can see I am finishing this build in the gravel on the side of my house. I will try to update progress nightly from here on out.







And to settle or address the axle debate, the original tag was left on the previously narrowed assembly. It is a 2800 lb axle. I will transfer the tag onto my re-tubed assembly just because.

 
#59 · (Edited)
Thank you, the wife, dog, and I were fine camping out of our fj40 and smaller buggies for the last 10 yrs, kids change everything!

Not a lot of visual progress yesterday. I drew up my sheet metal parts and sent them off to the steel shop, I picked up u bolts (was able to use some ruff stuff plates I had laying around), then laid out, cut and welded up the outer box frame and mounted up my spare 37" kevlars.





 
#61 ·
I did think of that, but prioritized having a "back bone" to pull from. The center tube is butt welded to the rear "bumper," but notched through the front piece of 2x3 and ran into the 2.5" x .250 sleeve for the collapsible tongue. I am assuming the the 2x3 end pieces, upper frame work and interior sheet metal will hold the rest together.
 
#65 ·
So what was your thoughts on mounting the sliders? Kinda looks like you've mounted then too close to the axle. But I have no experience with slider boxes.

With the tire on there will you use up all the available down travel?
 
#68 · (Edited)
When the spring is flat there will be 1/4" of travel left in the box. These springs will not use all of the available down travel in the boxes. I would need a spring with much more free arch. I will be ordering deaver's once the trailer is fully done and I can get accurate weights.
 
#70 ·
Shackles? I've been a fan of the sliders for years and have started a couple of builds with them, but always ran short of patience. In short, the sliders generally offer a lower ride height, a more consistent/ linear spring rate, allow the spring to move freely and do not shift laterally.
 
#72 ·
Just set everything in so that I can see it taking shape. I'll pull it back out and then start at the front, move o the floor/ side pieces and then place the interior pieces.


From L to R: dirt bike/ ez up/ misc storage, water tank, fridge at the rear.



Action packer storage and the stove will go on top

 
#75 ·
Today I got all of the sheet metal fitted and tacked into place. To ensure a nice tight fit and to give me as much room as possible in the storage "slot," I loaded the fridge, stove, action packers and water tank. Off to get the tires mounted up.







 
#78 · (Edited)
Slapped the tires on and made it a roller. It really helped to scale the trailer. It was looking long and tall on the stands. As it sits, it is 24" to the bottom of the frame and 48" to what will be the mid-rail. The rack will be 24" higher. The good news, it is sitting exactly where I had hoped/ designed. There is still 3" of up travel before the axle tube hits the frame. I was planning on using a toyota ifs bump stop which is about 1.5" tall, so I may look for something more flat or even just a strap of conveyor material. The bad news is that at the very least I need to get some "trailer wheels" or swap the axle tube to a full 5'. I think the frame clearance is ok, but the slider boxes only have 1/8" to a 1/4" of clearance to the sidewall. These wheels are 4.75" bs iirc and the ones currently on the jeep are 5.25", so neither are ideal.

I was also optimistic that I could fit shocks outside of the frame rail :lmao: for those with these kind of trailers, are shocks a big benefit? A friend built a similar sized trailer, using the same springs (more unsung weight, less sprung weight) and it bounces a fair amount. I was planning on shocks, but not against trying without, changing the tube is only two hours work at most and would solve both of my current issues.

The problems with going wider are that the trailer track width will then be wider than the jeep, which would be not ideal for trail situations. Being wider will also make accessing the stove more difficult for my wife. At 5'5" the height is already a stretch without the fender in place to work around/ over.

 
#79 ·
I am personally a big fan of skinny tires on a trailer. I had a trailer that came with some 215s and was forced to try a mini-donut spare, and loved it as a trailer tire, especially in deep snow. In mud, the trailer tires will follow in the temporary valleys left by the jeep. Skinny tires should give less sidewall drag there. On sand, you can just air them down. On rocks, it shouldn't matter much either way.

I'd run the shuck under the trailer and point them back, that way the slide motion will engage the shocks better.

for bouncing, make sure the tires aren't over-aired.
 
#82 ·
Thanks to everyone's input, I'm going to stay the course on the axle width as it matches the jeep track width and other parameters for the build. I'm going to look into some 3.5" bs wheels, unfortunately summit only offers them as beadlocks, which seems excessive.

For shocks, I'm going to pick up some 10" travel charged shocks and mount them horizontally to the active spring eye, it shouldn't work any differently that traditional mounting, thanks to the slider.

:flipoff2:
:beer:
 
#85 ·
Had some mental set backs today as well as a few steps forward. Turns out 3.5" bs 17" wheels, in my current bolt pattern are hard to come by unless I want a bead lock. Looks like I'm going to return the axle + 2.5" :shaking: I also realized tonight that I have already welded in the corner jacks, where I would need the shocks to go. The floor assembly has sealed in the weld on top, so it would be a pretty big deal to cut the jacks out. I will give it a go without shocks on my test run and make a decision before my 1500 mile trip next month.

For progress, I picked up a sheet of 14 GA and cut the front wedges so I could start outfitting the trailer. I located the propane tank, 6v batteries, water pump and mounted the on demand water heater. I'm going to try and pick up a sealed box with a door to serve as my "power center." The plan is to get all of the hardware mounted and then strip it down for finish welding, then reassemble and plumb/ wire. Hoping to take it out next weekend.



 
#86 ·
Wheel spacers? Kickass trailer! I have been thinking of building something similar. The water heater is fawesome!:smokin::grinpimp:
 
#89 ·
I got the water heater off Amazon, I'll look for a link later. It sounds like it should work as I want it too. The heater that came with the donor works like an old school home water heater. I only want hot water when I need it. I also have a Kickass zodi heater, but it is all or nothing and manual ignition, so I am trying this out.

Absolutely on fenders, the passenger side will hold a large cutting board as well. The action packer trunk will be skinned out as well.... all part of tomorrow's work.
 
#91 · (Edited)
I like what you are building! I'm going to be modifying an M100 for trail camping and utility work, lots of info here, thanks.

I see your fridge has fans in the front, and it is kind of tight to the side of the trailer, is there enough of a pocket for ventilation there, or are you going to put some holes for that in the side of the trailer? Where is the electrical connector, space for that?
 
#94 ·
Thanks Dave, I have been hesitant to post updates..... I'm picking up a cabover tomorrow. This trailer will be finished, but there is no longer any kind of deadline. After our trip I have a few higher priorities to wrap up before I finish the trailer.
 
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