I'll post up my new ride in a few. I'm excited that I'm back in a van, a 4x4 van to be exact! The interior is pretty set up but I'm not sure if it will suit my needs.
how many of you have traction adders in the rear axle?
i'm gonna add some traction to my 2wd pre runner van and i'm kinda torn between a lock-rite (cheap, simple, and good traction) or a posi like a true trac (expensive, less effective off road). at least the van is long and heavy and should make the locker a lot less jerky than the detroit in my bronco.
i'm mostly concerned with behavior on ice/wet roads. i know how a locker handles, driven locked vehicles for most of my driving career. will a good posi be just as slip and slidey as a locker on icy roads?
i know some of these built vans have to have something in back. and don't tell me ARB cause i'm not interested :flipoff2:
I ran a 2wd locked van before the 4x4 van. Side hills with a locker on slick surfaces are not fun (well, fun until you hit something). With the locker, even wet grass on a side hill was bad. Ice etc will be even worse. It worked great on the Sand/Rocks though (no low range meant no finesse).
The extra length/weight etc of the Van did make its road manners much nicer than it is on our Explorer. There was much less locker wiggle.
We were running a lockright in a 9" but a selectable would have been much nicer (just wasn't in our price range)
lol.. first get a got damn yellow star fucktard. second look the fuck around, does this look like the place to peddle your services. Do we really look like checkbook builders.. And furthermore why the fawk would you think that id let you touch my shit with anything after tossing out a silly assed price and just say dana 60s front and rear.
I know that i will be building it myself. with two degrees from MIT and haveing built countless street cars with swaps,and a few off road rigs, trash compactors, boilers, and high speed production machines i think i will be fine without your non rule abiding crackhead shop peddling ass help..
And good day
it is gutted right now. engine has been replaced with a rebuilt 7.3 litier turbo diesel. rebuilt trans, getting new tranny cooler, cold air intake, and some other assorted goodies. we have set it up for dim-able LED lighting, remote heater, full 8 speaker and woofer stereo, and a ton of other stuff. May start a thread. enjoy!
The stabalizer should help quite a bit you may need to go to dual stabalizer. I have 2 on mine. I 'd show you a pic but I don't know how to put a pic in. It always ask for a urrl. ???????
Egads... Thanks for the info! You know, I had a 2004 F250 with a 6.0 for a few years and aside from the computer crapping out I actually liked the motor... I suppose if I found a 6.0 van for the right price I could just pull the heads and drop them on studs first thing.
Stay as far away from a 6.0 van as you possibly can.
Really.
It makes a 6.0 pickup truck look about as reliable as gravity.
It is a classic 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag scenario. Ford has not re-engineered the van at all since it came out in its relatively modern from in 1992, and it has gone from the 7.3 IDI - 7.3 Powerstroke - 6.0 Shitstain with no real changes in the body. The problem is the diesels have gotten more powerful, and physically larger with the 6.0. So they keep jamming them in there.
The 7.3 was never that bad, but the 6.0 is just too big and not enough air gets around the motor. At its horsepower rating they can just not get enough air in there to cool it. It has a lower output than the trucks, so head gasket issues are relatively rare. It has other, much worse issues.
It likes to eat EGR valves and injectors, but those are fairly common 6.0 things.
The temperatures get so hot for so long the wiring harness melts or the connectors fail. I have seen 4 or 5 get complete engine wiring harnesses in under 50k miles. Unacceptable.
The intercooler boots get hot and soft and they pop off no matter how tight you get them.
The oil gets hot and looses its lubricity, wearing out the high pressure oil pump. We resorted to changing the oil every 3k miles, which helped, but it still sucks. Under good circumstances you would get a no start hot until the oil cooled down, then the thicker oil would get enough pressure in the HPOP to fire off an injector, in bad cases they would not start until the HPOP was replaced.
Our fleet of 6.0s were SO horrible we had to keep 4 of our old 7.3s 100k extra miles just so we could have something on the road, and we eventually went to Chebby Duramaxs and Freightliner M2s to give the tow truck drivers a break.
Someone in SoCAl is supposedly working on the cooling systems to make those 6.0's last a LOT better. They are franchising out the information to other shops.???? Anyone???
FWIW, I have an 04 6 liter E350 and it has been very reliable so far. I don't drive it, or idle it like an ambulance though.
I have also added functional fender vents to help dissipate some of the heat buildup at low speeds.
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