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Old 12-19-2010, 08:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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16" real tire tire options

Alright you expedition guys are creative and get it when it comes to stuff that works instead of being trendy!

I run a 4x4 7.3 Excursion its got f350 plow package springs(+5inches) and f350 rear blocks with air bags(+2 inches or more).

I am tired of running junk light vehicle tires, I need a heavy load rating because of the weight of the truck and the loads I tow. I have been running 285-75-16's but would like to run something narrower to get some fuel milage back. The ability to air down really isn't critical atleast an E rating.

I have thought about 255-85-16's but they seem very limited in availability.

Is there a real truck tire(commercial) in around a 33-34" height in a 16" wheel size? Suggestions I do not mind road noise its a diesel.


Thanks,

Geoff
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2D EDGE View Post
Alright you expedition guys are creative and get it when it comes to stuff that works instead of being trendy!

I run a 4x4 7.3 Excursion its got f350 plow package springs(+5inches) and f350 rear blocks with air bags(+2 inches or more).

I am tired of running junk light vehicle tires, I need a heavy load rating because of the weight of the truck and the loads I tow. I have been running 285-75-16's but would like to run something narrower to get some fuel milage back. The ability to air down really isn't critical atleast an E rating.

I have thought about 255-85-16's but they seem very limited in availability.

Is there a real truck tire(commercial) in around a 33-34" height in a 16" wheel size? Suggestions I do not mind road noise its a diesel.


Thanks,

Geoff
Look into the Goodyear Duratracs, they are well worth the $$$ I am running them on my cummins, but I am running 285/70/17's look at tire rack for pricing as well....
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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honestly, if you are looking for a stiffer sidewall, you might be better off going to a taller rim at the same time. like a 17 or 18. you can browse the goodyear or other manufacturers commercial sites pretty easily, that might help you out. if you swap to 19.5" wheels that will allow you to run the real commercial type tires with very heavy duty sidewalls.
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Old 10-30-2011, 02:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Some real wheels and tires
http://www.ricksontruckwheels.com/index.php
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I am in the same boat you are. Even to the point of running an Excursion with just about the same modifications, and I pull a heavy trailer with the pig. I really like the truck, just get tired of hucking new tires on it every 20k if I am lucky.

I had a set of cheap(er) 265/75 r16 Es on there, and ended up slipping a belt on one of them towing the trailer at around 18k miles. Tread wear was OK, but they were marginal when towing. And I now only had 3 of them. So I tossed them.

I am burning tread off of my 285/75 r16 Es like there is no tomorrow, but they tow and handle the weight much better then the 265s. A little better tire and 335 more rated pounds per tire are doing their job I guess.

255/85 R16s seem OK, but I hear you on limited availability. They are also only rated for 3415 a tire vs. the 3750 for the 285s.

Mil Surplus 325/85 r16s kind of scare me because of their age, the availability of finding spares on a trip, and the unknown history of the tires in general. I would run them on a wheeler/around town rig with no questions, but not something I want to get into for a tow rig.

I have been looking at take off 18s and 20s from new Superduties, you can find good deals on them. They need spacers front and rear, and everyone will tell you that spacers will kill a bus load of nuns, but there are some companies selling all steel hub centric spacers ($$$, though) that I can not see causing a problem. ALL the ford dually front axles run bigger spacers than 2 inches, and they are rated up to 6k pounds. On the factory unit bearings. If you burn up Sterling 10.5 wheel bearings you are doing something wrong. The only thing you are really doing is returning the wheel to the factory 1999-2004 backspacing. But anyways.

With the 18 inch rims you could get some 275/70 or 285/75 rated for 3640 pounds at 80 PSI. Not quite as good as the 285/75r16s, but they would probably tow better with the shorter side walls. 295/75 R18s are rated to 4080 pounds, but they are 34 inches tall and 11.7 inches wide.

With 20s you could get the Nitto Crosstek HDs in 275/65 with a load rating of 3750 at 80 PSI, which brings you back up to the 16 inch tire rating, and shorter side walls, but I do not know if that is a real improvement.

The problem with all the 16, 18 and 20 tires is they are still light truck/automotive tires and I assume they would have the same wear problems. The Excursion is a heavy bitch and it needs some tough tires to get things working correctly.

That brings you into the .5 tires, 19.5 and 22.5s. There are some short 22.5s out there, but you are going to have to run adapters. Earthroamers run adapters, and they are much heavier than the Excursion. I have not heard of a single failure with them.

A nice article about the decision process with Earthroamers and getting new tires for them.

http://www.whiteacorn.com/articles/tires/

Like someone said, Rickson sells steel 19.5s of the proper backspacing, and Vision sells SRW 19.5s in aluminum that Rickson also sells, but you can probably get cheaper elsewhere.

No question these tires are rated for the weight and have a rubber compound that is much harder than light truck tires, but the design of the rim is such that the air pressure is the only thing that seats the bead and they need to be run at 65+ PSI at all times. Plus they ride like heavy duty truck tires with heavy weight ratings. The stiffness of the tire, the lack of any ability to air them down and the generally mild treads would kill much of the offroading potential in the truck. I do not want to take the Excursion deep down Jeep trails, but I do not want to get stuck in sand when I could just air down the tires to get out, either.

The last option I have found is Continental 335/80r20. You can get HEMMT 20 inch beadlocks and re center them for relatively cheap, but they are HEAVY. and the Conti's are HEAVY. Everything about this choice is HEAVY. BUT, you have the weight rating, the ability to air down, and some off roading options.

So it looks like crappy LT tires that burn off tread towing, but work better over all, heavy duty x-.5 tires that wear like iron but ride like shit and off road poorly, but will handle the weight and trailer better, or stupid expensive and heavy tires that do everything OK.

I am still looking too.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have a set of 255/85/16 Toyo M-55's on the truck for winter use. I put about 3K on them last winter, with some mild wheeling thrown in once or twice.

They still have the nubs on the tread in a few places, showing where the little tits were when I bought them. I pulled our 12K 5th wheel on a 400 mile trip in April and didn't notice any chance in the nubs from start to finish, so I'd say they are pretty hard tires.

The one drawback seems to be their propensity to chunk out if you spin them too much in rocks or gravel. I had to back up a rocky stretch last year about 80 ft and rather than locking into 4wd, I just let it spin a little like I would do with my Hankook's. I chunked out 3 or 4 spots in the center of one tire, about 1/3 of the tread block width. Not too deep, but enough that I won't do that again.

Otherwise they have performed very well for me, with the exception of the fact that they stink like being down wind from the $hit ponds on the edge of town. No idea why they reek like that, but they stink like hot turds whenever they get warm, and if you get close enough while they are cold, you can smell it as well.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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FWIW, I found a good deal on some 35 inch tall 285/70r19.5 wheels and tires. I got the tires and wheels for just a little more than _another_ set of LT tires.

My only complaint is not getting them sooner. A little "rougher", but they handle better, take the load better, corner better, and I am sure they will handle the trailer better.

They might not be the prettiest tires on the road, but I love them!



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Old 11-25-2011, 09:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey get out of here with your tires that don't last 50,000 miles with life to spare. Next you'll say you only get 10 or 12 miles per gallon.

I need the same type tires.
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Old 11-26-2011, 02:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2D EDGE View Post
I have been running 285-75-16's but would like to run something narrower to get some fuel milage back.
Skinnier does not necessarily equate to better fuel mileage. Probably the biggest factor is the weight of the tire, while a skinnier tire will be lighter that a wider tire of the same model, it may not hold true all tires. ie a 265-75-16 may not be lighter than a 285-75-16 (yeah I know those two tires aren't the same height I'm just using it for illustrative purposes) if the two tires are different models/brands. That said a shorter tire may also return better gas mileage, even if it weights the same as the taller tire. This is because the weight is closer to the center of the wheel making it easier to turn.

Another factor to consider is the tires Coefficient of Rolling Resistance (Crr). This is a measurement of how easily a tire rolls. As far as I know all tires have their Crr measured... finding out that info however may be the trick with a hole in it. Now all things being equal a taller tire will have a lower Crr than a shorter tire. This is because like in rock crawling/racing a larger tire will roll over the bumps easier.

Finally you should also consider the load range of the tire, and how much it deforms under load. As you have experienced through a short tread life a lower load range tire deflects more than a higer load range tire. This results in more heat build-up in the tire which results in the tire's Crr increasing.

Decreasing the Crr of your tires may sound like a great idea however their are some drawbacks. Since Crr is closely related to the traction (the same things that increase a tires traction also increase it's Crr) a tire has, by lowering the Crr you can also lower the amount of traction you have available for vehicle control. This can result in increased braking distances, lowering lateral g's you can sustain, and increasing ultimate acceleration times.

confused yet?
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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FWIW, I found a good deal on some 35 inch tall 285/70r19.5 wheels and tires. I got the tires and wheels for just a little more than _another_ set of LT tires.

My only complaint is not getting them sooner. A little "rougher", but they handle better, take the load better, corner better, and I am sure they will handle the trailer better.

They might not be the prettiest tires on the road, but I love them!





Your fanning the flames of my 7.3 Excursion lust . . .
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Swapped my 235/85R16 for 255/85R16 recently.
Cooper ST, only D rated but most of my driving is empty these days.
I like the, so far. Considered KM2s E rated, but went with the little milder tread and price tag.

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Old 11-27-2011, 03:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I had a set of D range BFG AT's that were way too soft for my 10,000lb van. I ended up with a set of 315/75/16's Toyo Open Country MT's. They're 10 ply E range rated for 3860lbs per tire.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Your fanning the flames of my 7.3 Excursion lust . . .
It is a 7.3 And... a ZF6 very soon Just do it!
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It is a 7.3 And... a ZF6 very soon Just do it!
What 285's were you running?
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had 285/75r16 BFG ATs on it. Good tires, but I could seemingly watch them wear when I pulled a heavy trailer with the truck.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:17 AM   #16 (permalink)
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How about some Michelin XZL's in a 9.00R16? Might be a bit too tall... they are abut a 36x10
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