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Old 04-15-2012, 01:55 AM   #526 (permalink)
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Before you commit to using bolts, might be worth doing some searching here (if you haven't already)...

Don't know if it would be any different for your application, or if I'm misunderstanding your design, but seems that there are quite a few people who have had issues with bolts not staying tight, and ended up going back to ubolts. I had that issue with bolts years ago, and fixed it by going back to ubolts. You're using higher quality parts than I dealt with though, and assuming larger bolts and higher torques, so maybe it doesn't matter.

Just thought I'd mention in case you haven't heard that before. Thanks for posting your build, been following it since the beginning
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:14 AM   #527 (permalink)
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Yeah, I started a thread in gen 4x4 asking about this (u-bolts vs. bolt-bolts), and didn't get any of these type of replies. Can pretty easily switch from bolt-bolts back to u-bolts, will probably just have to have some shorter ones custom-made. Thanks for the heads-up guys.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:05 PM   #528 (permalink)
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Most spring shops or big-rig shops will make custom ubolts on the spot, any size/shape/dia
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:59 AM   #529 (permalink)
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Thanks, I know. Have had Deaver make a ton of custom u-bolts for me over the years for different projects.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:03 PM   #530 (permalink)
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Ran into a little problem related to the geometry of some of the plates for the passenger-side winch mounting bracket that I need to alter (due to the winch being offset to the driver's-side). After mirroring the parts from one side to the other, the sketches in the mirrored parts aren't displaying right. So when I modify the sketches, it messes the whole part up. Don't have much experience with this, as most of the parts I've needed to mirror in the past remain symmetrical mirror images of the original parts. But every time I run into a problem like this, I learn something new. Just asked about this on the SolidWorks user forum, and am looking forward to finding out what I might have been doing wrong...
Take a hard look at the auto-relationships that where generated when making the part. I have had that bite me in the butt a few times when trying to mirror a complex part that is to be profile cut.

I would save the part as a separate one, eliminate all the relationships you can, and then mirror the part. This might get around the problem. You just have to be really careful to check that things don't more around where your not going to notice. Dimensioning the part after the mirror will lock it back in place.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:08 PM   #531 (permalink)
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Thanks. Yeah, I've been fooling around with all the different options related to relationships between the original and mirrored parts. The fact that nothing seems to be working the way I'd expect it to makes me think I must be doing something wrong. Just haven't run into this issue before, so it's pretty likely that there's a better way to accomplish what I'm trying to do...
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:06 PM   #532 (permalink)
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Had a productive morning. Got up early, rented an engine hoist, and started doing the driveway shuffle. Moved the two extra transfer-cases and the old engine out of the way so I could get access to the new engine. Then pulled the new engine out of the crate and plopped it down in the driveway right in front of the chassis.



















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Old 04-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #533 (permalink)
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Was hoping to get a bit more done, but the FUCKING PICE OF SHIT ENGINE HOIST THAT I RENTED FROM A TOOL SHED FAILED AGAIN, and catastrophically, this time. Fortunately, it failed while I was lifting the old engine, and it was only about 10" off the ground. There was a loud 'cracking' sound, a bunch of oil pisses out of the hydraulic cylinder, and the engine crashed into the concrete. Had some wooden blocks under it which I'm hoping might have saved the oilpan, and the driveway. Won't know if there's any real damage until I get another hoist to lift it up and pull the pan. So I just threw a tarp over the new engine and called it a day.

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Old 04-17-2012, 04:40 PM   #534 (permalink)
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nice. isn't supposed to be in the chassis though, not on the ground. ha ha.
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:11 PM   #535 (permalink)
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You need to find yourself a A frame with a chain hoist and quit trying to use those mickey mouse things
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:15 PM   #536 (permalink)
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You need to find yourself a A frame with a chain hoist and quit trying to use those mickey mouse things
Yeah, would have bought/built an A-frame, but you can see where I'm working on it right now and I simply don't have room for something like that.
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:23 PM   #537 (permalink)
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Borrowed one from a local guy to swap out a the 318 from my W250 for a 440 it was 12 feet between the uprights and the hight was adjustable. We were able to slide it right into my buddies dump trailer to take it out to his shop.
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #538 (permalink)
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nice. isn't supposed to be in the chassis though, not on the ground. ha ha.
Did you read that bit about the engine hoist failure? Would have been a stretch to get the bellhousings and everything swapped over today. Think I could have done it, but now I can take my time. Just trying to stay on the positive side of things. With long-term projects like these, can't get too hung-up on the small setbacks.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:02 AM   #539 (permalink)
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As my dear old departed Daddy use to say,

"Don't Sweat the Petty Things, And Don't Pet the Sweaty Things".

I don't believe I'd be renting anything from the Tool Shed any more. And I'd sure let them see the damage done by their junk.
Call them and have them come pick the hoist up. And be sure they bring their camera for their Insurance Adjuster.

And take some pictures yourself, incase you end up in small claims court.

Forgot to add you can get a 2000 lb engine hoist that folds up into a small space of about 2' X2'x 5'. I have one I got from Northern tool. It was about $150 when I bought it. I'm sure they are a little more now, but great to have around and fit out of the way real nice all folded up. It even has rollers under it!
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:19 AM   #540 (permalink)
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I have a nice 2000lb-rated engine hoist, it's just not tall enough. The deuce frame is something like 4ft off the ground, and it's a tall engine. That engine hoist from A1 lifts up to almost 100" and I still had to remove the front tires in order to pull the old engine out of the chassis. Think I'm just going to roll the front axle out this time and then flip the oilpan around once it's in there. Definitely not going to be working on it while it's hanging from an engine hoist.
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:20 PM   #541 (permalink)
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Harbor Freight has a pretty nice A frame hoist that disassembles into a pretty small package. It may be worth looking into...
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:14 PM   #542 (permalink)
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This is a great build, I enjoyed reading through it. You have some great ideas and the skills and knowledge to pull them off. Good luck with your build, if you ever end up in the north here (Bellingham WA) on your way to Canada or Alaska on an adventure feel free to get a hold of me and we can show you around town.

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Old 04-18-2012, 04:36 PM   #543 (permalink)
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I have a nice 2000lb-rated engine hoist, it's just not tall enough. The deuce frame is something like 4ft off the ground, and it's a tall engine. That engine hoist from A1 lifts up to almost 100" and I still had to remove the front tires in order to pull the old engine out of the chassis. Think I'm just going to roll the front axle out this time and then flip the oilpan around once it's in there. Definitely not going to be working on it while it's hanging from an engine hoist.
I understand your problem. One way to beat it is to get some wheel dollys and put them under the suspension with the tires off.



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5530_200365530

Then your hoist will be tall enough with the entire chassis setting lower on these. If you were closer I'd loan you enough to do the job. I have 12 of these and use the heck out of them. Nothing like being able to spin a chassis inside the shop without having to roll it outside. Once you get the eninge in it you can put the wheel back on. It's awfull nice to be able to scoot a heavy
chassis sideways in the shop.

Fortunately you body is no longer in the way so should be able to get closer to the frame with the hoist.

I stuffed a 5.9 inside my Class A through the radiator hole so I know about tight spaces.

Hang in there Jesse! It's looking good from here!
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:03 PM   #544 (permalink)
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Was a really nice day to be working outside. Looking forward to a lot more of these over the next few months. Got up early, took my dogs for a run, then got to work. Had to swap the 2.5-ton bellhousing, flywheel, clutch and transmission over onto the new engine. Transmission jack just barely fit under the transmission, and separated from the engine with just a little bit of persuasion. Ugh, it was filthy in there!







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Old 04-18-2012, 08:17 PM   #545 (permalink)
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Flywheel was in pretty good shape. Some light grooves, and you can see a little bit of heat in the middle, but no big deal. Took that down to the local machine shop to have it resurfaced and brought the bellhousing down there to have them throw it in the hot tank for me too.




The pressure-plate is in fantastic condition, and the clutch looks pretty good too. Have a brand new clutch that I was planning to install, but might not even bother. The clutch fibers are about .415" thick on the new clutch, and they're about .400" thick on the old clutch, so seems like it has plenty of life left in it.






Cleaned-up the old transmission with some degreaser. Some of my friends have been asking if I'm going to repaint all that stuff, but I kinda like the patina on these old parts. Transmission will probably get pulled to be rebuilt with one of Tom's overdrive kits, or might end up replacing it with a different transmission altogether. Either way, not too concerned about it right now.






Also got really lucky when I pulled the bellhousing off the new engine - the gasket didn't pull apart! From what I've heard, nobody sells those gaskets, so you have to cut your own, and it's just one more thing to do.

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Old 04-18-2012, 09:14 PM   #546 (permalink)
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If you're planning on installing the engine in the chassis with the tranny and transfer case attached you'd better get a 10 ton hoist.

A Cummins 5.9L engine weighs in a 1250 lbs by itself. Add another 350 to 5that and you have one heck of a load.
No telling what that Multifuel motor weigh in at. (You probably know)
That sucker is BEEFY! Not to mention the transmission you're using!
Maybe that's why the seals in the rented hoist blew.

Go ahead and paint the tranny and t case too. You'll be glad you did later.

Makes leaks easier to track and then clean up.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #547 (permalink)
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Thought it was 1,400-1,500lbs, but looked it up and it weighs right around 1,650lbs. Transmission is not very heavy at all though, and the transfer-case weighs a bit over 500lbs - but it's divorced, and it's already in the chassis.
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:24 AM   #548 (permalink)
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Awesome job so far keep em coming!
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:35 AM   #549 (permalink)
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Thought it was 1,400-1,500lbs, but looked it up and it weighs right around 1,650lbs. Transmission is not very heavy at all though, and the transfer-case weighs a bit over 500lbs - but it's divorced, and it's already in the chassis.
No wonder they put rockwells under that monster!
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:04 AM   #550 (permalink)
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Yeah, and if I remember correctly, it's almost over-loaded in this application. Think it's rated for somewhere right around 7000lbs, and with the winch hanging off the front-end, have to be careful about how much more weight I can put up front.
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