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Old 05-10-2013, 12:20 PM   #951 (permalink)
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I know a little but about the ones on road tractors, though the one I am most familiar with is my friend's W900 with a Studio Sleeper which is considerably bigger. On that truck there are two bags, one on each side, and a control valve that basically feeds air to the bags if the cab drops below a certain height and then shuts off when it gets to the correct height, much like the float in a toilet bowl. Probably wouldn't be too hard to rig up a small single bag at the rear and pivot off the two front mounts. Be aware that it will move quite a bit more and pretty much everything connected to the cab will probably need a little thought to allow it to deal with the extra movement.
Yeah, it will definitely stress the fenders if if has too much movement. The stock mounts at the back of the cab have it sitting on rubber, but springs allow it to pull away from the frame when things start to flex. Was just thinking that I could lift the cab like an inch, then install some very short-travel air-shocks/bags. But controlling the movement almost makes it seem like it's not worth the trouble.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:01 PM   #952 (permalink)
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Yeah, I think it would take some significant re-engineering, which wouldn't be a bad thing since it would be on par with the rest of this thread but I think the cost/benefit analysis would come up a bit short in this case. A set of used air ride seats out of a medium duty truck or bus I can see, but this might be a bit more pain than it's worth.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:14 PM   #953 (permalink)
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Yeah, I think it would take some significant re-engineering, which wouldn't be a bad thing since it would be on par with the rest of this thread but I think the cost/benefit analysis would come up a bit short in this case. A set of used air ride seats out of a medium duty truck or bus I can see, but this might be a bit more pain than it's worth.
Air-ride seats will probably be on custom linkage, tied into the rollcage, and will use mountain bike air shocks instead of airbags. Can always put the cab on air later. Won't be too difficult to slide the box back a few feet.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:05 PM   #954 (permalink)
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Ouch. Was wondering about that (whether I might be able to find/afford the matches to some of those connectors). Yawan has a good source for mil surplus electrical stuff though. Will see what we can come up with.


Yeah, bought a length of 3" PVC and am going to sink a bunch of those into the slab. Good idea about a security anchor-point too.
Contactor not connector :P The big solid state solenoid deal for the main output on the generator is bling.
let me know what amphenol connectors you need and I will see if i can help
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:28 PM   #955 (permalink)
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Oh, didn't know enough about anything I was looking at to even know the difference. Will get a little more familiar with this thing in the coming weeks/months though, for sure.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:10 PM   #956 (permalink)
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Have been working with Miller for a long time and my Millermatic 251 has been a soldier, but it's not built to travel. This new Multimatic 200 sure is though! Multi-voltage (120 & 230V), ARC, MIG & TIG, plus a spoolgun, and it only weighs 29lbs. It's the perfect welder for the mobile workshop trailer I'm building to tow behind the motorhome. Sorry big guy, but you're getting left behind.

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Old 05-12-2013, 01:15 PM   #957 (permalink)
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wow. I just read this whole thread and all i can say is wow.

For the seats I would recommend corbeau baja ss's they should be pretty easy to fit into the deuce and they are very comfortable. I think i paid 169 per seat.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:31 PM   #958 (permalink)
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That welder looks amazing !

I am trying to get a MIG, but that sounds like a good option.
Do you recomend that for the weekend warrior like me ? Someone who needs to trail repairs, and other times build a cage, duty cycle its not a problem (letting the welder cool down its just an excuse for a beer), but reliabitly is.
I saw those type of welders before, and most of them are just shit. How is that one ?
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:51 PM   #959 (permalink)
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That welder looks amazing !

I am trying to get a MIG, but that sounds like a good option.
Do you recomend that for the weekend warrior like me ? Someone who needs to trail repairs, and other times build a cage, duty cycle its not a problem (letting the welder cool down its just an excuse for a beer), but reliabitly is.
I saw those type of welders before, and most of them are just shit. How is that one ?
Just unpacked it on Friday and haven't even had a chance to fire it up yet, but Miller doesn't make 'shit'. If you're thinking about adding a welder like this to a vehicle, first question would be - what are you going to use for a power supply? Something like a Premier Power Welder might be a better choice for a dedicated onboard welder for trail repairs and that sort of thing. But think this is going to be perfect for the type of mobile fab work that I'll be doing with it.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:53 PM   #960 (permalink)
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Just unpacked it on Friday and haven't even had a chance to fire it up yet, but Miller doesn't make 'shit'. If you're thinking about adding a welder like this to a vehicle, first question would be - what are you going to use for a power supply? Something like a Premier Power Welder might be a better choice for a dedicated onboard welder for trail repairs and that sort of thing. But think this is going to be perfect for the type of mobile fab work that I'll be doing with it.
I did not think about the power supply yet, I do have a giggleplin 450amps alternator, getting a 230V output should not be that hard.

I do really want to do tig and mig too, just looking if. Sorry to call "shit", I personally never used miller before (Live in Portugal, Europe).
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:48 PM   #961 (permalink)
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The Multimatic 200 operates on 120V too, so 230V is not essential, but think getting the power supply figured out might be your biggest issue. Talking with Yawan at Kodiak (he does all the tech support for Premier Power Welder) about this, he warned me that most regular inverters can't be used to power welders. Something about the way the welders work shorts-out the inverter. Sorry, but don't know too much about that. Just wanted to point it out as something you'll want to look into. Pretty sure you can do MIG and TIG welding with Premier Power Welders too, for what it's worth. Decided to go this way because I wanted to create a well-equipped mobile workshop, and couldn't find anything better than the Multimatic 200 out there. Pretty versatile little machine.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:12 PM   #962 (permalink)
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What do you recommend for a good 230V MIG welder to learn with? I was looking at the Lincoln 180HD online, but realized I don't even know what a good price is for a welder. I want to learn to weld, and be able to do basic to moderate fab work, if that's possible (welding brackets to truck frames, making brackets, things like that.)
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:56 PM   #963 (permalink)
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You'll find a lot more qualified opinions on pirate than mine, but I've been really happy with my Miller machines. Like anything, buy quality tools and while they're a little more expensive up front, find that they tend to be a better value in the long run. Try doing some searches on the subject of welders and think you'll find a lot of helpful info.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:22 PM   #964 (permalink)
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What do you recommend for a good 230V MIG welder to learn with? I was looking at the Lincoln 180HD online, but realized I don't even know what a good price is for a welder. I want to learn to weld, and be able to do basic to moderate fab work, if that's possible (welding brackets to truck frames, making brackets, things like that.)
Agreed with jessie. You will be happy with Miller /lincoln/hobart. Stay away from the homedepot/lowes watered down welders that lincoln makes just for them though.
Go take a welding class at your local community college. You will come out confidant enough to do a lot of stuff. The fab stuff comes from experience & trial/error.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:18 PM   #965 (permalink)
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That's solid advice Josh.
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Old 05-17-2013, 12:01 AM   #966 (permalink)
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Spent some time working on CAD files for a bunch of sheetmetal parts that I need to have cut. Was having Craig down at R&I laser-cut parts for me, but I'm going to have some of these parts plasma-cut to save some money. Here's what I'm thinking the front leafspring mounting brackets and skidplates are going to look like. It's mostly 1/2" plate. Going to use 3/4" x 8.5" bolts instead of U-bolts.



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Old 05-17-2013, 06:31 AM   #967 (permalink)
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Is a spring perch not needed on a square tubed axle?
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #968 (permalink)
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Agreed with jessie. You will be happy with Miller /lincoln/hobart. Stay away from the homedepot/lowes watered down welders that lincoln makes just for them though.
Go take a welding class at your local community college. You will come out confidant enough to do a lot of stuff. The fab stuff comes from experience & trial/error.
AMEN!
I've had customers bring in stuff they've welded with their Harbor Freight or Home Depot Welders to have me redo with my Miller. Their welds looks like someting my grandson would do. Booger Welds I call them.

I'm not the best welder in the World, but I can do wonders with my Miller compared to what they've done.
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:44 AM   #969 (permalink)
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Is a spring perch not needed on a square tubed axle?
Oh no, just didn't model the spring perch because I'm going to re-use the stock ones. Flipped them around to increase the caster, which involved a little bit of drilling and grinding. Posted about that earlier in this thread. If I were to produce a kit with these high-clearance leafspring mounting plates, would probably machine some new leafspring perches too.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:09 PM   #970 (permalink)
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Air-ride cabs? Been thinking about how easy it would be to replace the rubber-spring rear cab mount with an air-ride setup, and would be a lot easier to do before I reinstall the box. Anybody know anything about those systems? Seems pretty straightforward, but please let me know if there's anything important I should know.
Steal a existing system from a tractor, but you will have to fab hinges in the front of the cab. You may be able to steal those as well.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:21 AM   #971 (permalink)
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That is probably the most insane suggestion I think I have ever heard.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:43 AM   #972 (permalink)
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I hate to be Offtopic but what CAD software do you use?

I use linux and love opensource, so obsiously I use FreeCAD, but I would like to try other just for the sake of it.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:38 PM   #973 (permalink)
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Ouch. Was wondering about that (whether I might be able to find/afford the matches to some of those connectors). Yawan has a good source for mil surplus electrical stuff though. Will see what we can come up with..

I would just find yourself some standard 120/240v connectors that you would normally use. I've had to try and source military specific connectors before and it's insane. Most all the stuff is so long out of production that it needs to be custom manufactured now. Surplus stuff is good if it's unused, but the contacts on plugs and receps do wear and deteriorate over time. Not to mention you'll need to carry a spare of everything.

Your local electrical supply will have all sorts of different plugs/receps that you can make work. I'd recommend going twist-lock on everything so they don't rattle apart.
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:27 PM   #974 (permalink)
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x2 on eliminating the military connectors... worked on F18s for years in the Corps and those connectors wear out or short often enough to ruin a day or two more than once a year. The pins are so tiny and the male insert pins on the rear become brittle from vibration and either break inside the connector or inside the loom. You'd be time and $$ ahead if you sold them to someone else and used standard 120/240 stuff. They were very cool once upon a time, but now they are just a pain in the ass
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:37 PM   #975 (permalink)
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I have the wiring diagrams which will be needed as we cant figure out how the damn thing is started with no starter. best guess is via the alternator or the hydro pump?
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