Pirate 4x4 banner

mah deuce

1M views 1K replies 260 participants last post by  jesusgatos 
#1 · (Edited)
introduction

In December of 2008 I decided to pack it all in and hit the road. Load up my dogs and my bikes and go wander through what's left of the wild west, keeping an eye out for places where I might eventually like to buy some land and build a place to live. Had been living up in Bend, OR for the last 4-5yrs and spent a lot of time exploring different parts of the Pacific NorthWest (mostly on dirtbikes). Been all over the west coast wheeling and camping in different vehicles that I've built over the years. But my wanderlust goes back much further, to the days I spent playing in the wilderness as a kid, looking forward to a time when I'd be able to set out on bigger adventures. When I was about 19yrs old I started making plans to build a custom motorhome out of an old schoolbus. Was going to haul my bikes and my Jeep around in the back of it. Had it in my head that I was going to spend my life traveling around the country/world writing about my adventures, and would do this all under the Trails Less Traveled banner. Was almost exactly 10yrs later that I found myself in a position to follow-through on what it felt like I'd been planning all my life.

The decision to build a deuce and a half was a simple process of elimination. Did a ton of research on different vehicles and didn't find anything else that was comparable and I could, 1) afford, and, 2) get in the US. After finding out that I could buy a deuce for a fraction of what a decent 1-ton pickup truck would cost me, it was a done deal. After learning all about the different variations of these vehicles, I settled on an M109, which is just a basic deuce and a half (M35A2) with an insulated 12ft box on the back of it (instead of the regular cargo bed). Ended up finding one for sale, listed right here in the Pirate classifieds section. Drove down to Lake Shasta from Bend and bought mah deuce for $3500 from Ed (Hammer). You can buy trucks straight from military surplus for a lot less, but couldn't afford the uncertainty that goes along with buying surplus.

There's nothing particularly unusual about traveling/living in a motorhome, but the imposing nature of mah deuce tends to give people the wrong idea. A lot of people see a military vehicle and assume that I must be preparing for the apocalypse, and a surprising number of people try to relate to me like that nutjob in the military surplus store in the movie Falling Down. They want to tell me all about their bunkers and their stockpile of weapons and food and whatever. Like we're brothers in arms or something. Creeps me out. But this is just a motorhome, much like any other motorhome, except that I want to be able to travel and live unsupported for extended periods of time, in some pretty remote places.


This is what it looked like when I picked it up.





 
See less See more
3
#217 ·
hardtop

Got the top part of the hardtop all stitched back together. Not perfect, but I think it turned out pretty good considering how poorly made it was in the first place. Might actually be straighter now than it was when I got it. Will finish welding it up and fit it to the cab sometime later this week. Then I can start designing the rollcage.



 
#218 ·
A3 hood

Just took these pics to show somebody on steelsoldiers, but might as well post them here too. Stumbled onto this brand new fiberglass hood while I was at Brad's place and had to have it. This was made to fit the newer M35A3 trucks. It's only about 3lbs lighter than the stock steel hood, but it's MUCH stronger and I'm expecting it to be a lot quieter than the steel hood too. The A3 hoods are a little bit longer than the A2 hoods, so I'll have to trim it to fit, but that'll be easy; just one straight cut across the back edge of the hood and since this was a brand new hood, it didn't even have holes drilled for the hinges yet.









 
#222 ·
Looks like the Fiberglass hood will be a lot of work but once you cut it down it may save you some weight. But then again, maybe not so light if you go overboard with the reinforcing on the fiberglass splicing. That part is really fun if you can make the pieces line up where you want them. I like working with fiberglass. It’s so much easier to fudge with.
I think I’d go with cutting down the glass hood, just to keep the “WTF Factor” going.
Not planning on cutting the hood. Just going to re-mount the side-hood pieces and either modify the grill, or make a new one. No big deal, really. Am sure you will agree when you see what I'm talking about.
 
#221 ·

Are those butt welds on the roof sections?
If so, unless you reinforce them the oil can flex is probably going to keep popping that seam.
Do you have a pneumatic panel flanging tool?
They look like this if somebody isn't familiar with them!

You can get them from several sources but, I’ll use the Northern Tool link to give you an idea. I love mine. It has made a big difference in my custom body work! Here's a link to read up on them at.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_14322_14322
They allow you to leave a ½” overlap flap by punching in a “Z” in one side. This tool also will punch in the holes for spot welds with a mig welder if you don’t have a dedicated spot welder.
Since you’ve got the sheet metal spot weld with a mig thing down it would be a cinch for you. This flange will give you a stronger seam joint and are well worth the price when you consider you won’t have to redo the butt welds again.
Of course you could weld a reinforcement strip over the under side to the seam to beef it up. But that’s a pain sometimes. But, with the little hole punch part of the tool, it makes it a lot easier.

Looks like the Fiberglass hood will be a lot of work but once you cut it down it may save you some weight. But then again, maybe not so light if you go overboard with the reinforcing on the fiberglass splicing. That part is really fun if you can make the pieces line up where you want them. I like working with fiberglass. It’s so much easier to fudge with.
I think I’d go with cutting down the glass hood, just to keep the “WTF Factor” going.

Love the Grenade Shifter handle. It just says "Road Rage, Mad Max Style"!

Curtis
 
#225 · (Edited)
hardtop & roofrack

Are those butt welds on the roof sections?
If so, unless you reinforce them the oil can flex is probably going to keep popping that seam.
Do you have a pneumatic panel flanging tool?
They look like this if somebody isn't familiar with them!

You can get them from several sources but, I’ll use the Northern Tool link to give you an idea. I love mine. It has made a big difference in my custom body work! Here's a link to read up on them at.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_14322_14322
They allow you to leave a ½” overlap flap by punching in a “Z” in one side. This tool also will punch in the holes for spot welds with a mig welder if you don’t have a dedicated spot welder.
Since you’ve got the sheet metal spot weld with a mig thing down it would be a cinch for you. This flange will give you a stronger seam joint and are well worth the price when you consider you won’t have to redo the butt welds again.
Of course you could weld a reinforcement strip over the under side to the seam to beef it up. But that’s a pain sometimes. But, with the little hole punch part of the tool, it makes it a lot easier.
Thanks for posting. Really appreciate this type of input, as I'm always interested in learning about better ways to do things. This isn't just show-and-tell, there are a lot of areas where I need help!

Yes, that's just a butt-welded seam. Was planning welding it up like the back panel. Not strong enough? Not going to be a problem here because of the way I'm going to reinforce the roof, but am curious.

I'm going to cut-down a big sheet of aluminum to reinforce the roof and to create a low-profile roofrack (with tie-down points) that I will glue to the top of the roof. On the inside, I think I might line the hardtop with fiberglass. Want to be able to carry stuff on top of the cab when I don't have the camper on the back.
 
#223 ·
Interesting that a new hood has the pattern already on it and was painted before the fixtures were added. So much for them not having a pattern until being installed on a truck. Perhaps the A3s are done differently or maybe my source on the pattern being done after final assembly was wrong? Something to ponder... :D
 
#224 · (Edited)
Somehow I took read into it that you were going to cut it according to the cut lines on this picture.

And based on that picture and the underbracing it didn't look like it was going to be easy.
We will rely that you have it worked out and we wait to see it.

Curtis
 
#227 ·
So, you still gonna try and install that fiberglass hood?

Personally, i think it should be let go and stick with stock. a cut down like that would be a lot of work, likely will never look as good and you would only save 3# anyway.
yeah it is stronger, but how weak is the old one?

Either way, i am Loving your project.
and my wife hates it. lol
(I keep looking at old army trucks on the computer at the auctions near here.
She just Knows i am coming home with one someday. *grin*)
 
#229 ·
So, you still gonna try and install that fiberglass hood?

Personally, i think it should be let go and stick with stock. a cut down like that would be a lot of work, likely will never look as good and you would only save 3# anyway.
yeah it is stronger, but how weak is the old
The hood is NOT getting cut down the middle, it's only getting trimmed down to the right length. Making the fenders and grill fit is easier than it sounds. You'd have to see how it all goes together to understand, and I can't show you because my truck is still in pieces. But trust me. No big deal.
 
#242 ·
Not an interruption at all, I'm interested too. I can see how a flange or a backing strip might add strength. Also makes sense about being able to stitch-weld. Can see how these butt-welded joints might fatigue next to the weld and break. Just finished welding-up the top panels and I'm going to go pick up some hardware right now so I can (temporarily) install the hardtop and windshield frame on the cab.
 
#243 ·
One issue when welding to pieces of sheet metal together in "butt" orientation is warping due to heat.
Adding a strip to reinforce the area can help considerably with that issue.

But you got it done and looks good, so no worries.
 
#244 ·
hardtop

Got the new hardtop installed on the new cab for the first time (test-fit). Haven't ground-out any of the welds yet, and and you can see the gap in the middle between the back panel and top panel. That will go away. Think it turned-out alright, but need to reinstall the windshield frame and hang the doors before I pat myself on the back. Will tackle that tomorrow.









 
#245 · (Edited)
Looks good! You're butt welds look strong. I really doubt you'll have any issues, since that looks like relatively thick sheetmetal. The concern really comes in to play with modern automobiles that have relatively thin sheetmetal. I only brought it up since you're interested in alternative methods. Since I might not have been clear, if you use a back plate, sleeve or flange, you would weld it to your original piece using the holes you drill, then still run a bead down the seam to finish it off. If using a backing plate (instead of a flange) and you leave a slight gap (a couple millimeters), you weld the backing plate with the seam, too. What you end up with is a butt weld with a welded on backing plate for additional strength. We do this every time on a car, since virtually everything is structural in some way on a modern unibody vehicle. The end result before grinding looks something like Frankenstein's neck scars from his stitches. A welded bead down the middle, with a row of welded holes on either side of the bead.

To the poster asking about doing it with quarter panels: if you use one of the pieces of metal you trimmed off from near where you're splicing the new panel in, you can (with a little shaping) fit it inside the old quarter panel and clamp it in place. Weld it in via a few holes pre-drilled through only the outer piece. Then, once you set the new quarter panel in place, you can use some self tapping sheetmetal screws to pull the replacment panel and the sleeve together, essentially clamping it flush with the old panel, before you weld the holes and seam. And you're absolutely right, it takes a lot of fitting and trimming to replace a quarter panel.
 
#248 ·
Well the stock multifuel engine (LDT465) only puts out about 130hp and my M109A3 weighed about 16,000lbs empty, so it was pretty slow even when I wasn't towing a trailer. But that uhaul trailer weighed almost exactly 4000lbs, and I could hardly tell it was back there. Never even bothered hooking up the trailer brakes. Stopped just fine. Backing up was a little bit tricky, just because it was a relatively short trailer. The new 5-ton multifuel engine that I'm swapping-in puts out a little more power (180hp) and the new M103A3 trailer I'm building will also be a bit lighter, so I think it'll make a pretty good package.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top