mah deuce

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Going to retain the stock in-tank electric pumps, and these multifuel engines are also equipped with mechanical fuel pumps that are strong enough to pull fuel from the tanks. This just goes along with the requirements that these vehicles had to be able to operate without any type of functional electrical system. But I'm concerned about the restrictions that the filtration equipment will create, so I'd like to build-in another backup. The stock electric in-tank pumps are expensive to replace, and that's not the type of part that I could pick up at a local auto parts store. So I was thinking about adding inline pumps. Then I found out that Racor makes an optional 24V electric priming pump for the Marine Turbine, and I've been told that they're working on a full-flow electric pump too. Would like to add a pair of those full-flow pumps whenever they become available. Just like the idea of having a backup (or two) when it comes to parts like fuel pumps that I might have a hard time replacing in the middle of nowhere.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

This FPM-050 fuel polishing unit, along with a FPM-PTC-12 timer/controller, will circulate the fuel through the filters on a programmable timer, so I shouldn't have to worry about fuel going bad if/when Mah Deuce might be parked somewhere for a while. Evidently these fuel polishing units are used on a lot of ocean-going boats and in industrial applications where large quantities of fuel need to be stored for long periods of time. These fuel polishing units are pretty energy-efficient and my inverter will automatically turn on a generator whenever the batteries discharge to a pre-set point, so power shouldn't be much of a problem. But ideally, I'd like to power the fuel polishing units (and everything else onboard) with an array of solar panels on the roof of my M109 box.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

There are going to be several selector valves in the system, that will need to do things like:

1) switch between tanks

2) return fuel to the tank it came from

3) redirect fuel from the clean tank to flush out the slut tank's lines & filters

4) bypass the FBO filter when running gasoline in the slut tank

5) run in closed-loop to filter / polish fuel

I'd like to set it up so that when I select a tank using valve #1, valve #2 would also be switched over so that fuel is coming from, and being returned to, the same tank. I'm sure I could do this with some type of simple mechanical linkage, or two switches, but it would be ideal if I could find one valve that would operate two circuits at the same time. What would be the best way to handle the electrical side of things? Should I just use manual switches to turn fuel pumps on/off, or should I tie them into the selector valves in the fluid circuit somehow?

hammer suggested 5-ton selector valves and I thought those were exactly what I was looking for. But I'm having second thoughts as I'm starting to make line drawings to figure out how to plumb everything. When feeding the engine from the diesel tank, I'll want to return the fuel to the diesel tank - and when I'm feeding the engine from the slut tank, I'll want to return the fuel to the slut tank. But when I'm purging the system (running diesel from the diesel tank through the slut tank's lines and filters), I'll want to return that fuel to the slut tank. So I think I'm going to have to use two separate control valves. That is, unless there's a three-position valve that would allow me to:

1) pull from diesel tank -> return to diesel tank

2) pull from slut tank -> return to slut tank

3) pull from diesel tank -> return to slut tank

Also thinking that position 3) would also allow me to transfer fuel from the diesel tank to the slut tank without having to install another fuel pump. This might be useful if I ever need to thin any of the alternative fuels in the slut tank.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

cranetruck had some good advice for me about sourcing valves,

Originally Posted by cranetruck

...use aircraft, direct action type. Stay away from "pilot" operated valves, they will clog...all those little passages...

Haven't gotten into that yet though. Need to figure out where/how everything is going to be installed first.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

As far as where I might locate all of these components: yes, I've given it some thought, but I'm not going to worry about it too much until I figure out exactly what components I've got to make room for. One option is to put them between the framerails, right where the airtanks are. I need to relocate the inside tank anyway (to make room for the t-case PTO driveshaft). Another option might be to mount them where the stock toolbox is (under the driver's seat). Not sure if that space is tall enough though. I've also still got quite a bit of room in the engine compartment (no heaters or other accessories in there yet, except for a Spinner II centrifuge - for the engine oil). So yeah, got a few options. No definitive plans yet though.

[DFryou22]

I was wondering if u could tell me how much they charged to sand blast and prime ur cab because I want to do they same thing and maybe my bed to. I live pretty close to Agri trade.
Thanks

[JESSE_at_TLT]

You know, I'm honestly not sure how much it might have cost just to sandblast and prime the cab because I had so much other stuff done at the same time, including the whole back half of another truck. Try giving them a call? 831.663.2727

[DFryou22]

Ok thank you

[Fredduck]

Originally Posted by JESSE_at_TLT

Not exactly sure what I'm going to do about heating in the tanks. To start off, I'm just going to install one of these Racor coolant heaters in each of the fuel supply lines, before all the filters. I know that the tanks will also need to be heated in really cold weather too, so I might also drill a few holes in the top of the tanks and install some bulkhead fittings that will run engine coolant through a coiled loop of copper tubing (or maybe something like PEX tubing?). Radiant heating is being used throughout the vehicle, with multiple heat sources, so it will be very easy for me to create a dedicated loop to heat the fuel tanks (going to do something similar for the water tanks).

Check these guys out real good stuff for what you want to do. Love the build,Carry on
http://www.arctic-fox.com/sitepages/pid74.php

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Originally Posted by Fredduck

Check these guys out real good stuff for what you want to do. Love the build,Carry on
http://www.arctic-fox.com/sitepages/pid74.php

Awesome, thanks for the link! At first I thought you were talking about these Arctic Fox campers.

[Thesnowman269]

Always thought it would be neat to do something like this. very nice job so far

[wilks_80]

We use Arctic Fox heaters on all the trucks we build. They are great units. We build Aerial bucket trucks so we use then for the hydraulic oil and fuel.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Thanks, I'll look into those.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Made a new shifter. It's much longer, and is positioned closer to the steering wheel. Wanted to top it with a pineapple grenade, but the lemon was a lot more comfortable.

[Steinbruchsoldat]

Looks great. Is the shifter that high from factory?

[JESSE_at_TLT]

No, I lengthened it quite a bit. The stock shifter was down at about the height of the seats. Lengthened the throw a bit, but not like it matters on a big old truck like this.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Got the top part of the hardtop all stitched back together. Not perfect, but I think it turned out pretty good considering how poorly made it was in the first place. Might actually be straighter now than it was when I got it. Will finish welding it up and fit it to the cab sometime later this week. Then I can start designing the rollcage.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Just took these pics to show somebody on steelsoldiers, but might as well post them here too. Stumbled onto this brand new fiberglass hood while I was at Brad's place and had to have it. This was made to fit the newer M35A3 trucks. It's only about 3lbs lighter than the stock steel hood, but it's MUCH stronger and I'm expecting it to be a lot quieter than the steel hood too. The A3 hoods are a little bit longer than the A2 hoods, so I'll have to trim it to fit, but that'll be easy; just one straight cut across the back edge of the hood and since this was a brand new hood, it didn't even have holes drilled for the hinges yet.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Just found out that the A3 hood is 2" wider at the nose. Gringeltaube just posted this diagram on steelsoldiers:




Looks like I'm going to have to figure out how to make it all work. The hood side-pieces will be easy, and I've been thinking about building a custom grill anyway...

[Munchies]

Honestly the hood sounds like a lot more work than it is worth. Re sell it and spend the time/energy/motivation that will get you more in the end.
Just my 2C

[SSSRodeo]

Are those butt welds on the roof sections?
If so, unless you reinforce them the oil can flex is probably going to keep popping that seam.
Do you have a pneumatic panel flanging tool?
They look like this if somebody isn't familiar with them!

You can get them from several sources but, I’ll use the Northern Tool link to give you an idea. I love mine. It has made a big difference in my custom body work! Here's a link to read up on them at.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_14322_14322
They allow you to leave a ½” overlap flap by punching in a “Z” in one side. This tool also will punch in the holes for spot welds with a mig welder if you don’t have a dedicated spot welder.
Since you’ve got the sheet metal spot weld with a mig thing down it would be a cinch for you. This flange will give you a stronger seam joint and are well worth the price when you consider you won’t have to redo the butt welds again.
Of course you could weld a reinforcement strip over the under side to the seam to beef it up. But that’s a pain sometimes. But, with the little hole punch part of the tool, it makes it a lot easier.

Looks like the Fiberglass hood will be a lot of work but once you cut it down it may save you some weight. But then again, maybe not so light if you go overboard with the reinforcing on the fiberglass splicing. That part is really fun if you can make the pieces line up where you want them. I like working with fiberglass. It’s so much easier to fudge with.
I think I’d go with cutting down the glass hood, just to keep the “WTF Factor” going.

Love the Grenade Shifter handle. It just says "Road Rage, Mad Max Style"!

Curtis

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Originally Posted by Munchies

Honestly the hood sounds like a lot more work than it is worth. Re sell it and spend the time/energy/motivation that will get you more in the end.
Just my 2C

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo

Looks like the Fiberglass hood will be a lot of work but once you cut it down it may save you some weight. But then again, maybe not so light if you go overboard with the reinforcing on the fiberglass splicing. That part is really fun if you can make the pieces line up where you want them. I like working with fiberglass. It’s so much easier to fudge with.
I think I’d go with cutting down the glass hood, just to keep the “WTF Factor” going.

Not planning on cutting the hood. Just going to re-mount the side-hood pieces and either modify the grill, or make a new one. No big deal, really. Am sure you will agree when you see what I'm talking about.

[Elwenil]

Interesting that a new hood has the pattern already on it and was painted before the fixtures were added. So much for them not having a pattern until being installed on a truck. Perhaps the A3s are done differently or maybe my source on the pattern being done after final assembly was wrong? Something to ponder...

[SSSRodeo]

Somehow I took read into it that you were going to cut it according to the cut lines on this picture.

And based on that picture and the underbracing it didn't look like it was going to be easy.
We will rely that you have it worked out and we wait to see it.

Curtis

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo

Are those butt welds on the roof sections?
If so, unless you reinforce them the oil can flex is probably going to keep popping that seam.
Do you have a pneumatic panel flanging tool?
They look like this if somebody isn't familiar with them!

You can get them from several sources but, I’ll use the Northern Tool link to give you an idea. I love mine. It has made a big difference in my custom body work! Here's a link to read up on them at.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_14322_14322
They allow you to leave a ½” overlap flap by punching in a “Z” in one side. This tool also will punch in the holes for spot welds with a mig welder if you don’t have a dedicated spot welder.
Since you’ve got the sheet metal spot weld with a mig thing down it would be a cinch for you. This flange will give you a stronger seam joint and are well worth the price when you consider you won’t have to redo the butt welds again.
Of course you could weld a reinforcement strip over the under side to the seam to beef it up. But that’s a pain sometimes. But, with the little hole punch part of the tool, it makes it a lot easier.

Thanks for posting. Really appreciate this type of input, as I'm always interested in learning about better ways to do things. This isn't just show-and-tell, there are a lot of areas where I need help!

Yes, that's just a butt-welded seam. Was planning welding it up like the back panel. Not strong enough? Not going to be a problem here because of the way I'm going to reinforce the roof, but am curious.

I'm going to cut-down a big sheet of aluminum to reinforce the roof and to create a low-profile roofrack (with tie-down points) that I will glue to the top of the roof. On the inside, I think I might line the hardtop with fiberglass. Want to be able to carry stuff on top of the cab when I don't have the camper on the back.