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Old 09-18-2011, 06:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Good 10.25 locker for moderate wheeling

What's a descent locker
For the 10.25. I have a sas hp d60 in front on my 95 f250 and am looking to get the rear a locker. Don't want to break my pocket book, it mostly pulls my camper or trailer but does seem some occasional wheeling.

Has 35s and 4.10 for now. Looking in the 39" range for next tire set.


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Old 09-19-2011, 12:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What's a descent locker
For the 10.25. I have a sas hp d60 in front on my 95 f250 and am looking to get the rear a locker. Don't want to break my pocket book, it mostly pulls my camper or trailer but does seem some occasional wheeling.

Has 35s and 4.10 for now. Looking in the 39" range for next tire set.


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personally i'd stay 37's and under for a tow rig/occasional wheeler, better tire selection that is more load range/street friendly and a track lock limited slip with some extra clutches would be perfect for that setup. not sure i'd like to tow with a locked rear end. but if you do go 39's i'd pass on a lunchbox locker and go straight to a detroit or arb, preferably an arb since this will be a street rig most of the time hauling shit as you said.

a better option would be to get a separate tow rig if possible. it's not hard to compromise and make one vehicle serve many functions, it's hard to compromise and make one vehicle serve many functions well.
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Also anything aftermarket for the sterling will break your pocket book.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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personally i'd stay 37's and under for a tow rig/occasional wheeler, better tire selection that is more load range/street friendly and a track lock limited slip with some extra clutches would be perfect for that setup. not sure i'd like to tow with a locked rear end. but if you do go 39's i'd pass on a lunchbox locker and go straight to a detroit or arb, preferably an arb since this will be a street rig most of the time hauling shit as you said.

a better option would be to get a separate tow rig if possible. it's not hard to compromise and make one vehicle serve many functions, it's hard to compromise and make one vehicle serve many functions well.
I already have another truck but its much newer and nicer and it's
Not for towing lol. I guess
Ill have to fork over the $$ for Detroit..... What else
Will i needn for install other than the locker itself.

Also what gears? Should i move to 5.xx for the 37-39" i have 4/10


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Old 09-19-2011, 09:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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it is the same price for the major lockers for a sterling as a corp 14 or a 70
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 880brutefarce View Post
I already have another truck but its much newer and nicer and it's
Not for towing lol. I guess
Ill have to fork over the $$ for Detroit..... What else
Will i needn for install other than the locker itself.

Also what gears? Should i move to 5.xx for the 37-39" i have 4/10


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How many miles on the truck?

I would just get a master install kit for a couple bucks more and have everything be fresh in the rear. No sense in burning up new gears with old bearings.

Gear ratio will depend on engine. If a 7.3, I would put in 4.56 with a 37" and 4.88 with a 39". 5.8, 4.88 with a 37" and maybe 5.13 with 39". 460 I would just go 4.88 with whatever tire.
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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it is the same price for the major lockers for a sterling as a corp 14 or a 70
o rly? one of these is not like the others.......just one example from one vendor, they all have similar prices to these listed for detroits.
d70: $689
14 bolt: $469
sterling: $669
i'd say $200 is a bit of a difference


....but then for a ford you have to figure in moving spring perches and shock mounts on a 14 bolt, not to mention figure out how to adapt the vss if you still street drive, so that $200 is not money saved imo.
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It's a 5.8. Rear looks like It has been went through tho. Body has 200k. Engine and trans has 30


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Old 09-19-2011, 12:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It's a 5.8. Rear looks like It has been went through tho. Body has 200k. Engine and trans has 30


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a 351w 40's and towing???? hope you don't plan to tow more than a small boat or motorcycle trailer. that's a lot of tire to push, and then add towing in and you are fucked.

just throwing this out there; have you put any thought into brakes?
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So some 5.13s and a detroit for the rear.

Where to buy gears/locker and any preference on gears ?

Thanks again


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Old 09-19-2011, 03:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So some 5.13s and a detroit for the rear.

Where to buy gears/locker and any preference on gears ?

Thanks again


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Yes, here.

/forum/56-axles-tires-wheels/

Plenty of good PBB supporting vendors that you should give your business to.

I'm with the others on this, for towing you should really stick to a smaller tire, and don't forget about brake upgrades as those big tires take a hell of a lot more effort to slow down. You may wanna look into selling that 351 and stepping up with the big boys by swapping in a 460. After all that though, it's honestly better to just buy a dedicated tow rig, or rethink your build.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It will tow what i need. Don't really go far or tow much weight.

I tow my 880 brute force to rides and the camper from time to time.
Sometimes tow my lightning to the track.

Engine wise it may get a set of heads/cam and or 76mm turbo.

I have the c4 so i doubt the 460 will bolt up. (c6 to 460? I think)

Breaks are all new on front. Ill look into the rear drum/rotor conversion .


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Old 09-19-2011, 07:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It will tow what i need. Don't really go far or tow much weight.

I tow my 880 brute force to rides and the camper from time to time.
Sometimes tow my lightning to the track.

Engine wise it may get a set of heads/cam and or 76mm turbo.

I have the c4 so i doubt the 460 will bolt up. (c6 to 460? I think)

Breaks are all new on front. Ill look into the rear drum/rotor conversion .


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Gotcha. A C4 can be bolted to a 460 with a different bellhousing, and there are tons of small block C6's so engine doesn't dictate which trans you use. That C4 might not last too long if it hasn't had anything done to it. The 351 should be fine for what you intend to do with it.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Are you sure you have a c4? 95 f250s came with the e4od. If it doesn't have overdrive it is a c6.
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yep no od... I assumed c4. C6 then .
Good catch.


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Old 09-19-2011, 10:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Take a picture of the column shifter. I've heard of a few rare trucks that "new" with a C6, just thought they were like 92ish leftover c6 builds.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Those that got C6s by that point were mostly big block HD trucks from what I understand. But you're right, the shift indicator will tell, as will a quick picture of the transmission pan.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:28 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Ok will get
Pic tomorrow.


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Old 09-20-2011, 04:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I've had a lockright in my f-350 for about almost 5 years, many towing/plowing miles. sometimes grossing as much as 30K with a 3 car wedge hooked to it, and a 7.3 with a banks kit punishing it... They are pretty tough..

3 other guys in our club run them in 10.25's as well, one pulls a GN with his, another has a 7.3 truck on 40's.

No way I'd ever dream of swapping a 10.25 for a 14 bolt... 10.25 is plain and simple a better axle... Yeah, a detriot is cheaper for a 14bolt than anything else, but thats because its a lunchbox locker(in a 14b)... just like a lockright...
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 880brutefarce View Post
What's a descent locker
For the 10.25. I have a sas hp d60 in front on my 95 f250 and am looking to get the rear a locker. Don't want to break my pocket book, it mostly pulls my camper or trailer but does seem some occasional wheeling.

Has 35s and 4.10 for now. Looking in the 39" range for next tire set.


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its called a millermatic 240
thats what i used on mine
and it was free

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Old 09-21-2011, 09:27 PM   #21 (permalink)
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i have a 1990 f350 with a e4od and a sterling rearend, put 5.13 in it and i have 35s on it. does great right now, but im going to 40s thinking i may need to go lower, when i had the gears changed i also had to chang my yoke because it had to do with somthing being 10.25 insted of 10.50 rearend, said if i had gone 5.88 i would of been fine. somthing about the output shaft on the rearend being longer on the 10.5 or 10.25 something weird.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:24 PM   #22 (permalink)
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i have a 1990 f350 with a e4od and a sterling rearend, put 5.13 in it and i have 35s on it. does great right now, but im going to 40s thinking i may need to go lower, when i had the gears changed i also had to chang my yoke because it had to do with somthing being 10.25 insted of 10.50 rearend, said if i had gone 5.88 i would of been fine. somthing about the output shaft on the rearend being longer on the 10.5 or 10.25 something weird.
what you are talking about is the difference between 1st and second generation sterling 10.25 R&P's. 93 and older are short pinion and 94-up are long pinion. as long as you have the matching yoke you can use either gearset in any sterling 10.25 or 10.50 housing.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:25 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Those that got C6s by that point were mostly big block HD trucks from what I understand. But you're right, the shift indicator will tell, as will a quick picture of the transmission pan.
I have seen c6s behind 351s as well (factory), not sure how common it is but I have seen at least one. The c6 shifter has a cone shaped end, the e4od has the barrel style end with od button. x2 on the pics.

Edit: I am going to weld my rear, i couldn't justify the cost of a detroit for how much I drive the truck.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:02 AM   #24 (permalink)
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i am running a 97 f250 hd with 37's,a detroit and 5.13's...tows perdy decent,also has the 5.8.i did the rear disk swap and will never have drums again.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:45 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Why did u go disc? My drums
And new front brakes work fine when rears are set up correctly


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