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Old 12-30-2011, 04:35 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I like how you did your coil over mounts. Your three link looks a lot like mine and I really like how it works.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:55 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks. They seemed like the easiest option to fit into the truck without re locating a bunch of stuff.
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:38 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Looks good! You might want to run joints on both sides of the top link. I ran one joint and one bushing on my three link on top link and when flexing it distroyed both bushing and joint the first time out
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:15 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Will keep that in mind. Thanks!

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Old 01-03-2012, 10:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Alright....steering is sorted out. Ended up going with a stock ranger pitman arm and reaming it out for the chevy 1 ton tie rod mounted on top of it. It is an extreme angle tie rod end and has lots of side to side travel. If I mounted it under as it was stock the tie rod would contact the tie rod end under full stuff.









Started on the track bar mounts and bar tonight. Got the bar fabbed and the joints tacked onto it. The axle end will mount through the web of the truss itself, and I will build around it to make it in double shear. I started on the frame end mount as well. Got it all fabbed and welded together, just needs the holes drilled and to be welded to the frame and a bit of bracing.









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Old 01-03-2012, 10:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Looking good man.


How much was the reamer? I might do a similar flip on my crew cab, just to ease things a little bit.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:14 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Looking good man.


How much was the reamer? I might do a similar flip on my crew cab, just to ease things a little bit.
Reamer was free....borrowed it from a buddy who bought it to flip his tie rod a while back. From what I've seen they can run anywhere from $50-100.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:39 AM   #33 (permalink)
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did you put the axle at full stuff with your tracbar like that? if its not it kinda looks like maybe the tracbar will possibly hit the diff? idk...

i see so many times where the extra time is not taken to prep the metal and it makes me

im glad to see youre taking the time to get the metal clean in the areas to be welded together.
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:09 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Howdy neighbor.

I haven't seen many builds around here of this caliber.

Where do you wheel? Maybe I'll run into you in my travels this summer.

Edit: Im over here in sunny Prince Rupert by the way
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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He's up in Terrace.... Now onto the thread jack!

Flatdeck6.2, you wouldn't by chance have bought a set of goodyear RT II's for your truck in Red Deer a couple years back? Truck looks oddly familiar...
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:48 PM   #36 (permalink)
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He's up in Terrace.... Now onto the thread jack!

Flatdeck6.2, you wouldn't by chance have bought a set of goodyear RT II's for your truck in Red Deer a couple years back? Truck looks oddly familiar...
Thats me. Back when my truck was a reliable daily driver, those tires did me good. Still got them in the back yard somewhere.

I met you on 4wheeler.ca back when it was still alive

sorry for the hijack
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:00 PM   #37 (permalink)
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did you put the axle at full stuff with your tracbar like that? if its not it kinda looks like maybe the tracbar will possibly hit the diff? idk...

i see so many times where the extra time is not taken to prep the metal and it makes me

im glad to see youre taking the time to get the metal clean in the areas to be welded together.
The axle is sitting against the bump stops in that picture. The tracbar will sit up about an inch or so away from the top of the housing at full bump.

And yup, everything gets ground shiny before I weld it.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:02 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Howdy neighbor.

I haven't seen many builds around here of this caliber.

Where do you wheel? Maybe I'll run into you in my travels this summer.

Edit: Im over here in sunny Prince Rupert by the way

Sunny Prince Rupert

I wheel locally and we usually head out and hit up Red Rose mines and the Telkwa pass once in a while.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:59 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Alrighty....it is almost of the stands! I just need to grab some bearings from work, and get the hubs on and bolt the tires on. I will try and get my nitrogen tank/regulator and hose set up on thursday so I can get it off the bump stops.













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Old 01-11-2012, 12:19 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Good work, looks nice.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:21 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Well got my nitrogen bottle/hose today...grabbed an old regulator we had at work. Seems it is fubar and barely puts out any nitrogen pressure. Also found my steering binds at the pitman arm near full droop, seems I won't be able to use the full 14" of travel these shocks have. Also the passenger side shock body hits the frame at full droop at the track bar pulls the axle to the drivers side. This is due to the shorterish track bar, but there isn't much I can do there...it is the same length and parallel to my drag link which is exactly what you want for no bump steer. I can move the lower mounts out on the axle about an inch to 1.5" more to give a bit more room. Looking like I can limit strap it to 12" of travel and that will help a lot as well, or try and trade my 14" shocks for some 12"ers.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:20 PM   #42 (permalink)
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and here too....





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Old 02-23-2012, 11:53 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Fer fawks sakes....you must have been bored!
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:59 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Looks pretty good. Lots of good ideas and quality work.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:15 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Looks good man, lower link brackets appear a bit thin though, what size are they? Nice work with the axles though. Panhards suck IMO, its hard to stuff a long one under and clear everything, then you go with a short one and it jacks the axle one way quite a bit. I am having the same issue with mine as we speak.. Wish I could do a watts link like the race car.... hehe
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:00 AM   #46 (permalink)
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You talking axle end or frame end? They are both made from .250 plate...the axle brackets are from TMR, the frame end I built.

Ditching the tie rod steering and going heims. Drag link will be stacked ontop of the tie rod heim and the knuckle will be getting gusseted to make it all double sheer. This will lengthen the pan hard and drag link roughly 6". It will also make both sit flatter. Hopefully this will solve the binding issues I'm currently having.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:58 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Fer fawks sakes....you must have been bored!
He must have. LOL

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Old 02-24-2012, 06:07 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Nice work!
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:52 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Awesome build. Lots of good stuff in here.
Got some questions for ya.

What length are the links?
What did you set the caster at?
What gears and lockers are you going to run?

Thanks man
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:32 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Links are all 38" long .250 2" DOM

Caster is sitting at 6 degrees right now.

Will be running 5.38's with Yukon Grizzly lockers front and back.
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