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#28 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Member # 11955
Location: San Juan Bautista, CA
Posts: 926
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Looks good! You might want to run joints on both sides of the top link. I ran one joint and one bushing on my three link on top link and when flexing it distroyed both bushing and joint the first time out
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48 willys pickup on 1 tons, 5.8L and 44's. 01 ford superduty 4x4 6 speed. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Alright....steering is sorted out. Ended up going with a stock ranger pitman arm and reaming it out for the chevy 1 ton tie rod mounted on top of it. It is an extreme angle tie rod end and has lots of side to side travel. If I mounted it under as it was stock the tie rod would contact the tie rod end under full stuff.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Started on the track bar mounts and bar tonight. Got the bar fabbed and the joints tacked onto it. The axle end will mount through the web of the truss itself, and I will build around it to make it in double shear. I started on the frame end mount as well. Got it all fabbed and welded together, just needs the holes drilled and to be welded to the frame and a bit of bracing. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#31 (permalink) |
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Marines deleted mine
Join Date: Dec 2006
Member # 84339
Location: Flyover land
Posts: 3,496
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Looking good man.
How much was the reamer? I might do a similar flip on my crew cab, just to ease things a little bit.
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The definition of irony: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...1&d=1334801294 Yeah, Janelle R Becher is a cunt
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#33 (permalink) |
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party wagon
Join Date: Nov 2011
Member # 202878
Location: jojah
Posts: 2,225
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did you put the axle at full stuff with your tracbar like that? if its not it kinda looks like maybe the tracbar will possibly hit the diff? idk...
i see so many times where the extra time is not taken to prep the metal and it makes me ![]() im glad to see youre taking the time to get the metal clean in the areas to be welded together.
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jeep is getting a new home! NEW PROJECT ON THE HORIZON!!! E-350 12 valve cummins, 2006 F350 axles, 6" lift and 37's ... |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Howdy neighbor.
I haven't seen many builds around here of this caliber. Where do you wheel? Maybe I'll run into you in my travels this summer. Edit: Im over here in sunny Prince Rupert by the way
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Living vicariously through you Last edited by Flatdeck6.2; 01-04-2012 at 12:10 PM. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Forever being built
Join Date: Jun 2007
Member # 94308
Location: Sherwood Park Alberta
Posts: 649
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He's up in Terrace.... Now onto the thread jack!
Flatdeck6.2, you wouldn't by chance have bought a set of goodyear RT II's for your truck in Red Deer a couple years back? Truck looks oddly familiar... |
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I met you on 4wheeler.ca back when it was still alive ![]() sorry for the hijack
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Living vicariously through you |
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#37 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
And yup, everything gets ground shiny before I weld it. |
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#38 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Sunny Prince Rupert I wheel locally and we usually head out and hit up Red Rose mines and the Telkwa pass once in a while. |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Well got my nitrogen bottle/hose today...grabbed an old regulator we had at work. Seems it is fubar and barely puts out any nitrogen pressure. Also found my steering binds at the pitman arm near full droop, seems I won't be able to use the full 14" of travel these shocks have. Also the passenger side shock body hits the frame at full droop at the track bar pulls the axle to the drivers side. This is due to the shorterish track bar, but there isn't much I can do there...it is the same length and parallel to my drag link which is exactly what you want for no bump steer. I can move the lower mounts out on the axle about an inch to 1.5" more to give a bit more room. Looking like I can limit strap it to 12" of travel and that will help a lot as well, or try and trade my 14" shocks for some 12"ers.
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#45 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 56456
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,581
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Looks good man, lower link brackets appear a bit thin though, what size are they? Nice work with the axles though. Panhards suck IMO, its hard to stuff a long one under and clear everything, then you go with a short one and it jacks the axle one way quite a bit. I am having the same issue with mine as we speak.. Wish I could do a watts link like the race car.... hehe
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74 f100, 4bt, 3link hp 60/14 bolt, welded f/r np435/205 Last edited by Fordman500; 02-24-2012 at 12:20 AM. |
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#46 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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You talking axle end or frame end? They are both made from .250 plate...the axle brackets are from TMR, the frame end I built.
Ditching the tie rod steering and going heims. Drag link will be stacked ontop of the tie rod heim and the knuckle will be getting gusseted to make it all double sheer. This will lengthen the pan hard and drag link roughly 6". It will also make both sit flatter. Hopefully this will solve the binding issues I'm currently having.
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91 Ranger - One tons, 3 link, air shocks, 40's....under construction |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Hillbilly Redneck
Join Date: Nov 2010
Member # 173422
Location: Watson, Louisiana
Posts: 490
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Awesome build. Lots of good stuff in here.
Got some questions for ya. What length are the links? What did you set the caster at? What gears and lockers are you going to run? Thanks man
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99 Mazda 302 T18 NP205-TS 60/10.25 42 TSL's |
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