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Old 02-19-2012, 04:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3 link 89' dana 60 question?

I recently acquired a kp hp dana 60, as well as the sterling rear from an 89' f-350. I will be using these axles to replace the 9" and 44 I am currently running in my 1979 bronco.

I know the 88-92" dana 60's are not the ideal axles for swapping into the bronco, but anything can be done with some fab skills and a welder.

My question is: can I use the sway bar mount on the driver-side short tube as a mount for the driver-side link?

It looks like it is welded solid, and I was thinking of welding the link bracket right to the sway bar mount. The reasoning: I do not want to weld to either the housing or the outer C's for obvious reasons. I'd rather not cut the housing either, as I do not want to risk damaging or cracking the housing after hard runs.

It can be done, but should it?
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i would not use the factory swaybar mount.
1. ive personally never seen it done before (probably because it would bring the booty fab)
2. its not that much work to cut it off to make it right.
3.you should also cut off about 1" of the driverside pumpkin casting in order to fit a 2.5" wide joint. to avoid welding to the casting.

after youve done that, i would weld both tubes to the pumpkin to avoid the possibility of them spinning..
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'll have to dig some pictures up and come back to this... but I have a 3 linked 88 ford 60. I built a big ol bracket that is welded to the drivers side spring location. lt's not that big a deal, you need someone who knows how to weld using some nickel rod.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I dont believe it would be "booty fab" per se, just utilizing bracketry that is already present and adding to it to serve my purpose.That said, I know it is not the best way to do it.

As I mentioned earlier, I am trying to avoid welding to or cutting into the pumpkin casting. I have researched and seen many people properly and effectively weld to cast, but I do not believe I have the tools nor skills to do so.

I am open to any and all suggestions as my searches did not net many results like what I am trying to accomplish.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No that mount isn't large enough to accept any kind of link really. Not that I would use. It's silly to try and build everything to accommodate one link mount. Find my thread called 74 f100. There's some pics of my 3 link
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordman500 View Post
No that mount isn't large enough to accept any kind of link really. Not that I would use. It's silly to try and build everything to accommodate one link mount. Find my thread called 74 f100. There's some pics of my 3 link
I actually saw your post while I was researching a few days ago. Did you use an 88-92 d60, if so could you post up how you mounted the driverside link to the short tube.

Thanks
Sean
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Do you have a torch? Do you have a welder? If so then thats all you need to sucessfully weld to cast. Its been done many time with good results.
This is how i did mine.





Hope that will help out!
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ford Rules, what were the specs on the welder you used to weld up your setup? Stick? MIG? What Shielding Gas, Wire Size, high nickle wire? Did you pre-heat the housing and wrap it to allow it to slowly evenly cool? Any cracks?

I do not own a welder or torch but have easy access to both. I can weld pretty good, but up until this point could not justify purchasing my own welder.

I think I will give welding to the housing a try, but will still try to avoid cutting the housing. I will have to make a bracket that will follow the contour of the housing/perch, or buy and modify a premade bracket.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's how I did mine. Keep in mind it was first done in 2003 with 7018 rod. It held for years and years untill I started racing. Then things started to crack. I added a truss on the axle and it was then repaired in 2009 by my good friend who's a mill wright. I ground out all the weld I could and it was welded with nickel rod. Some passes with 7018 were made over the top after all the nickel rod was layed in. Lots of heatin and beatin. Ain't been a problem since and I added the pissed off 351w.

The front suspension started out as basically a tubed wristed radius arm deal. Unfortunately I never took a picture of the bracket before it was welded to the housing. The suspension was then changed to a link and I kept beefing it up as I learned what kept breaking. I now have 1-1/4 heims and only two bushings with 3/4" bolts in the front. Anyhow here's a bunch of old pics I dug up.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79beater View Post
Ford Rules, what were the specs on the welder you used to weld up your setup? Stick? MIG? What Shielding Gas, Wire Size, high nickle wire? Did you pre-heat the housing and wrap it to allow it to slowly evenly cool? Any cracks?

I do not own a welder or torch but have easy access to both. I can weld pretty good, but up until this point could not justify purchasing my own welder.

I think I will give welding to the housing a try, but will still try to avoid cutting the housing. I will have to make a bracket that will follow the contour of the housing/perch, or buy and modify a premade bracket.
Millermatic 251 mig 220v .035 regular wire, 75/25 regular shielding gas, yes used a rosebud got the housing glowing red the welded and peaned the crap out of it, no cracks anywhere. I burried the whole housing in sand for the night to cool down, she was still warm in the morning.
If you do weld you HAVE to preheat I tried to just crank the welder up at first but the bead would peal right off the cast.
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