1980 F-250 4x4 w/ Low Miles - Is it worth it?

[roarksupply.com]

Ok guys, I know my way around trucks, but primarily Chevy's cause its what I grew up on.

Can you Ford guys tell me if this is worth anything, to keep as a local parts runner or to part out? Or just what to watch out for. I will get some pics up soon but I can get it for about $600.

What I have is a 1980 F-250 Single Cab, long bed with about 49k miles. It has a 351 (i think), 2barrel carb, 4-speed manual, 4x4, 8 lug steel rims. And it runs & drives!

The body is in decent shape with a few dings and dents and a little rust over the wheel wells in the rear and a camper shell.

Thanks in advance.

[AllGoNoShow]

Originally Posted by roarksupply.com

Ok guys, I know my way around trucks, but primarily Chevy's cause its what I grew up on.

Can you Ford guys tell me if this is worth anything, to keep as a local parts runner or to part out? Or just what to watch out for. I will get some pics up soon but I can get it for about $600.

What I have is a 1980 F-250 Single Cab, long bed with about 49k miles. It has a 351 (i think), 2barrel carb, 4-speed manual, 4x4, 8 lug steel rims. And it runs & drives!

The body is in decent shape with a few dings and dents and a little rust over the wheel wells in the rear and a camper shell.

Thanks in advance.

Yes it is worth 600 bucks...

[Fordman500]

Yeah thats not a bad deal.. Motors are pretty lethargic but for a 4x4 runner for 600$ you cant beat it.

[roarksupply.com]

Thanks. Anything that can be done to the motor to spruce it up? i have a ton of local hotrod ford customers and they have all kinds of parts laying around that I can trade them for.

I will either part this thing out or put some time into it and try to sell whole.....after driving for a year or two.

Thanks again, should have some pics up tonight.

[Dr.Danger]

Definitely worth $600. Plenty can be done to spruce up a 351, but just remember that in 1980 they were about as smogged down as they could be (much like the 350's of the same era), so it'll take some thought as to what you want to put into it. Front axle will be a TTB but if it's just a mild wheeler it'll do fine. The bushings are all probably shot and need to be replaced since it's that old but it isn't terribly hard to do. SAS'ing these trucks isn't difficult if you wanna go that route.

EDIT: I wouldn't part it out either, the individual parts are pretty common and aren't highly sought after. Around here at least, any running and driving 4x4 is worth $1000 as a ranch or hunting truck. It being a 4 speed makes it even better. My vote goes to keeping and driving it.

[knightkrawler]

Buy it

[EricsGreen98Tj]

Does it have a granny 1st gear? Np435 or the Ford Top loader? Honestly for $600 you'd be hard pressed to find a better truck.

I'd buy it and beat it to death. See how much punishment it can take before something gives. Then part out whats left to get the $600 back.

Pics and Vids if you go that route though.

[Beat95YJ]

You aren't doing anything to that motor and passing CA smog. For a beater shop truck it sounds fine.

[benjaminshaw80]

.......i would buy that truck!

[turpehar]

I had one of those new and drove it 23 years. One clutch replaced and motor rebuilt at 120k. Oh, forgot to mention I changed oil once in a while. Paid $8000 brand new in XLT trim. I should have bought two.

Buy it. I can't believe some wancker would sell it that cheap.

[roarksupply.com]

Thanks guys.

So I started it today and took pics which I will post. Its a custom 250. I think its outta gas cause it wouldnt stay running but the guage started out at half. Dual fill, single tank it appears cause there is no two tanks switch.

Jerry rigged a 1gal gas can to the carb and it fired up and it was sucking down the fuel. Then hand revved the throttle at the carb and the pump started working and spaying fuel so I hooked it back into the carb and it ran for a while but died so I ran about a half gallon outta the fill can. The clutch seemed good and reverse and first worked but I only went a few feet back and forth. I will fill more gas into it and test drive. Tire leaks at the valve too so I can only do so much at once

The power steereing pump was screaching pretty good so i'll bring some fluid next time. I will problynot go more than $500 cause most of the seals are leaking and hoses wont be far behind and that will be time and money.

It did fire back up after charging the battery for 20min of idle so we'll see if it holds a charge for next time

[fatdan460]

$600 for a runner is more than fair. $500+ for a 2x runner, $800+ for a functioning 4x4 runner as a pretty simple base line imho, unless it's a complete hunk of shit. without pics it sounds like you are in the good. 80-82 or 3 had "speed hole" frames that were prone to rust, but i wouldn't worry in cali. for some reason they put a bunch of big holes along the frame rails, fuck if i know why.

[ddestruel]

Originally Posted by Beat95YJ

You aren't doing anything to that motor and passing CA smog. For a beater shop truck it sounds fine.

shouldnt you be pimping a smog legal aluminium intake for this one?



in all seriousness in 1980 its probably a 351M. with that kind of mileage, a manual tranny and 4x4 id buy it in a heart beat even as a beater tow rig it'll do alot

Originally Posted by fatdan460

$80-82 or 3 had "speed hole" frames that were prone to rust, but i wouldn't worry in cali. for some reason they put a bunch of big holes along the frame rails, fuck if i know why.

F100's and some of the the light duty 3/4 tons with semi floater rear axles had the swiss cheese "shave a few pounds and try to get better mileage" frames

Originally Posted by roarksupply.com

Thanks guys.

So I started it today and took pics which I will post. Its a custom 250. I think its outta gas cause it wouldnt stay running but the guage started out at half. Dual fill, single tank it appears cause there is no two tanks switch.

should be on the same face plate as the heater controls and fan lever.

[fatdan460]

Originally Posted by ddestruel

in all seriousness in 1980 its probably a 351M. with that kind of mileage, a manual tranny and 4x4 id buy it in a heart beat even as a beater tow rig it'll do alot

forgot all about that. yep, will more than likely be an "M" motor up to 82ish. good catch. op, count the valve cover bolts to figure out what motor it is. and post up how many. idk much on sbf's but the number of bolts is different between engine familes and will identify what you have. wanna say m's have 8 and w's have 6 but i'm drawing a blank right now.

[kentucky4x4]

buy it!

[Fordman500]

Originally Posted by fatdan460

forgot all about that. yep, will more than likely be an "M" motor up to 82ish. good catch. op, count the valve cover bolts to figure out what motor it is. and post up how many. idk much on sbf's but the number of bolts is different between engine familes and will identify what you have. wanna say m's have 8 and w's have 6 but i'm drawing a blank right now.

your right on the valve cover bolts. m's will have more than 6. i dont remember if its 8 or 9

[Dr.Danger]

Originally Posted by ddestruel

shouldnt you be pimping a smog legal aluminium intake for this one?



in all seriousness in 1980 its probably a 351M. with that kind of mileage, a manual tranny and 4x4 id buy it in a heart beat even as a beater tow rig it'll do alot




F100's and some of the the light duty 3/4 tons with semi floater rear axles had the swiss cheese "shave a few pounds and try to get better mileage" frames




should be on the same face plate as the heater controls and fan lever.

I'm no Ford engineer from the 80's, but I'm pretty sure the frames had holes drilled in order to make them more rigid, not lose weight. Try taking a piece of thin steel or aluminum, and flex it around a bunch. Then drill tons of round holes throughout it, and try flexing it again. I guarantee you it won't flex easily at all because the forces are now spread along the inside edge of every hole drilled as well as the outer edge of the sheet.

The only downside is there is less metal left; as we know in northern climates it ate the frames apart far too quickly.

[Fordman500]

Originally Posted by Dr.Danger

I'm no Ford engineer from the 80's, but I'm pretty sure the frames had holes drilled in order to make them more rigid, not lose weight. Try taking a piece of thin steel or aluminum, and flex it around a bunch. Then drill tons of round holes throughout it, and try flexing it again. I guarantee you it won't flex easily at all because the forces are now spread along the inside edge of every hole drilled as well as the outer edge of the sheet.

The only downside is there is less metal left; as we know in northern climates it ate the frames apart far too quickly.

Maybe if they are dimpled it will make it more rigid. Simply putting a hole in a piece of flat plate will not make it more rigid.

[Dr.Danger]

Originally Posted by Fordman500

Maybe if they are dimpled it will make it more rigid. Simply putting a hole in a piece of flat plate will not make it more rigid.

I thought it was stamped? (drilled was a bad word to use) http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/41...that-weak.html Post #11. It seems silly that they would cut a few round plates out at the rear of the frame for weight savings, it can't have actually saved much. Either way it didn't turn out to be a great idea and shouldn't be too hard to plate and reinforce one of those frames if he actually has one.

[Havok450]

Originally Posted by Fordman500

your right on the valve cover bolts. m's will have more than 6. i dont remember if its 8 or 9

it is 8 i believe, i have a pair of m series m/t valve covers that have 8 bolt holes

[willys55]

I would buy that in a heart beat, BTW, drilled or stamped, the holes are there to make the frame stronger against flex, just look at semi truck frames and other class A and B vehicles.....that's why they have decals on the frames warning against drilling or cutting any "additional" holes in the frames, because then the tested strength is effected.

Back on topic: That truck would sell for over 1500 here in Jersey.

[mjlogan88]

Originally Posted by roarksupply.com

Thanks guys.

So I started it today and took pics which I will post. Its a custom 250. I think its outta gas cause it wouldnt stay running but the guage started out at half. Dual fill, single tank it appears cause there is no two tanks switch.

If its the same setup as the 80s/early 90s diesels, there are plastic pickup tubes that run down into the tanks. Those will crack or break off only allowing you to suck the fuel down partway. It may be half full, but the tube is broken off at that level.

Should have 2 tanks, the 2nd one is above the spare tire.

[roarksupply.com]

Yup, the owners friend (who is a customer) said it was probly a 351M. And yes, I noticed the frame was swiss cheese, lots of holes!



A little front end body work.




Minor Rust over wheels but everything else is light surface rust

[roarksupply.com]

Originally Posted by mjlogan88

If its the same setup as the 80s/early 90s diesels, there are plastic pickup tubes that run down into the tanks. Those will crack or break off only allowing you to suck the fuel down partway. It may be half full, but the tube is broken off at that level.

Should have 2 tanks, the 2nd one is above the spare tire.

I think the guages need exercising cause the gas went from a half tank to nothing once the pump started working and I only ran it for a 3 or 4 minutes on the tank fuel. I will check beneath the fan controls for the tank switch cause the middle section of dash has been removed to jerry-rig the stereo.

here are some mechanical pics so you guys can tell me what engine is in it and tanks, etc.

[dieselboy740]

Looks well worth 600$.