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Old 04-14-2012, 07:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Traction Bars - Custom Made

Lots of variety out there for you to buy them ready made
I like the OUO style...but the $$$ is outrageous.

I like the price of the Fabtech and Pro-Comp, but the more I read, I'm seeing they are a binding concern waiting to snap something.

So I'm wanting to make my own, but need some opinions. I've searched here and other forums and get tons of different answers/opinions.
The Truck: 06 F-250 with a 4.5" Donahoe Racing lift. DR coils up front, 5.5" replacement block out back with factory leafs. 35" rubber (soon to be 37")...tuned 6.0 PSD and a shit-ton of wheel hop when I peg the throttle

My thoughts:
Hiem joints on front and rear of bars
front end on a shackle mounted to frame rail
minimum of 60" length
bars mount below axle tube
bars mounted to maintain same angle as driveshaft
truck doesn't do much offroad, mainly to keep from grenading on acceleration

My thoughts are that the hiem joints will allow the axle to twist, and the shackle allow for leaf compression.


Found these tractor links for $20 each...should be plenty strong for my purposes after cutting in 1/2 and welding to tubing


and a shackle similar to this for the front mount to the frame


and a simple mount like this for the rear axle

I found these Rize bars that are very similar to what I'm wanting. The double mount on the axle I'm not a fan of though. Seems it would cause issues and negate the point of using a heim on both ends
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If I do end up building one I will build one with a shackle like the one you posted with dom and hiems.
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You have no idea what you're doing, right?

You should look for more pictures, and revise your plan.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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id look into one of these first

http://fordcummins.com/Est_FCPN_1272_from_BRADLEY_.pdf

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Old 04-14-2012, 09:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tylus View Post

I found these Rize bars that are very similar to what I'm wanting. The double mount on the axle I'm not a fan of though. Seems it would cause issues and negate the point of using a heim on both ends

Feel free to explain the function, if you have a single heim at the axle, and a shackle at the frame. What you will have is a piece of pipe hanging, with a hinge in it.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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build em and post the results!
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Um? You do realize how the shackled traction bars work right? A shackle on a single linked bar at the axle won't work.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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you are gonna need a "double mount" at the axle so that it can actually control the axle wrap. if you just have a single heim at the axle then the axle will still wrap and the shackle will just move as the axle does
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I would suggest more researching of traction bars.








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Old 04-15-2012, 12:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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OP, just get 8 of those tractor beams and four link your shit front and rear. That shit is fucking genius.


Wow, I thought the jeep forums were overrun with tards.
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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and that is why I'm asking. I have no problem asking before doing something stupid. I'd rather do that and avoid learning a lesson the hard way.
thanks for the utterly useless replies. lots of good info can be found here, but most of you fucktard armchair jockeys need to get a life. or at least provide some useful info

I have a fucking 8,000 lbs Superduty. It obviously won't articulate for shit offroad...hell it'll get stuck if it looks at a puddle the wrong way because of the heavy ass PSD up front and no weight out back

but at the end of the day I'd like to have some ladder bars that won't hurt the little bit of flex I do have with 1 ton leafs/axles
the Fabtech and Procomp setups are born to break with any articulation. the Rize one looks pretty, but I've read of them breaking.

the only bars that seem to hold up well are the OUO ones. I haven't found any negative about them...besides the $$$$$. I can always just copy their radius arm setup. would actually be quite easy. only issue is that I've had a ton of TTB F-150's and those radius arm bushing suck ass
















thx
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tylus View Post
and that is why I'm asking. I have no problem asking before doing something stupid. I'd rather do that and avoid learning a lesson the hard way.
thanks for the utterly useless replies. lots of good info can be found here, but most of you fucktard armchair jockeys need to get a life. or at least provide some useful info

I have a fucking 8,000 lbs Superduty. It obviously won't articulate for shit offroad...hell it'll get stuck if it looks at a puddle the wrong way because of the heavy ass PSD up front and no weight out back

but at the end of the day I'd like to have some ladder bars that won't hurt the little bit of flex I do have with 1 ton leafs/axles
the Fabtech and Procomp setups are born to break with any articulation. the Rize one looks pretty, but I've read of them breaking.

the only bars that seem to hold up well are the OUO ones. I haven't found any negative about them...besides the $$$$$. I can always just copy their radius arm setup. would actually be quite easy. only issue is that I've had a ton of TTB F-150's and those radius arm bushing suck ass



thx
Butthurt newb is butthurt.

You asked how something would work, were told it wouldn't work, got all butt hurt. How about this, if you like the OUO, copy their design if you think you can build them.

As for the tractor links, there is a reason guys are paying $30-40 per joint instead of using an entire link that costs $20. Those tractor links will last all of about 100 miles before they're shot.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tylus View Post
and that is why I'm asking. I have no problem asking before doing something stupid. I'd rather do that and avoid learning a lesson the hard way.
thanks for the utterly useless replies. lots of good info can be found here, but most of you fucktard armchair jockeys need to get a life. or at least provide some useful info

I have a fucking 8,000 lbs Superduty. It obviously won't articulate for shit offroad...hell it'll get stuck if it looks at a puddle the wrong way because of the heavy ass PSD up front and no weight out back

but at the end of the day I'd like to have some ladder bars that won't hurt the little bit of flex I do have with 1 ton leafs/axles
the Fabtech and Procomp setups are born to break with any articulation. the Rize one looks pretty, but I've read of them breaking.

the only bars that seem to hold up well are the OUO ones. I haven't found any negative about them...besides the $$$$$. I can always just copy their radius arm setup. would actually be quite easy. only issue is that I've had a ton of TTB F-150's and those radius arm bushing suck ass


thx
Well it's obvious that your expertise on the matter far surpasses the collective wisdom here. I guess everyone telling you that you had your head up your ass and that you should re-consider your design, well, that was just everyone being mean. It would have been better for all involved, for it to get built, and then you could post some pictures of it. Then we could all enjoy some serious laughs at your expense.


Let me ask you something. Why not tie a shoelace around one of your u-bolts, and then just tie it loosely somewhere on the frame, in the area of the front spring mount. Let it sag, at least a good 3-4 inches of droop in the middle. That won't work very well as a traction bar, will it? Well, that is what you said you were going to install. Every one of the useless posts, as you refer to them, was advising you against such folly. How the fuck did you find any way to be butthurt by that? Pirate is harsh, but this is absolutely the kindest response to stupidity that I have ever seen. If it's too much for you to bear, then you need to get the fuck out now.

I mean, no-one called you a retard(well, almost no-one), no one said a goddamn thing(well, almost no-one) except that you should research and re-consider. Hell, Even I had a moment of something akin to kindness, and tried to point you in the right direction without pointing out how utterly fucking stupid you were.

I mean, really, how did you find anything offensive in this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.N View Post
I would suggest more researching of traction bars.
Let me be a little more blunt, since you seem to be really fucking stupid. You haven't caught shit. Hell that wouldn't qualify as a gentle tease on here. That makes you the absolute supreme whiney cunt of all time.

Congratulations on your weak ass response tho. That shit is going to bring in the predators. Ever seen a shark feeding frenzy on The Discovery Channel?
Well, guess what is on the menu.
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Last edited by dahoyle; 04-15-2012 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm going to use tractor links for my Samurai's anti-wrap bar. But then again its a 1300lb, 52 horsepower, piece of shit. meh
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm going to use tractor links for my Samurai's anti-wrap bar. But then again its a 1300lb, 52 horsepower, piece of shit. meh

It isn't about what he is choosing to build it from. It's about his design, which will not work in any way as a traction bar, but rather, will just be junk dangling under his truck.

I hope you put more thought into what makes a traction bar work, then he did.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:19 AM   #16 (permalink)
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fuck it...no point feeding trolls

I'll bow out now. y'all have fun with the little circle jerk you got going on

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Old 04-15-2012, 11:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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fuck it...no point feeding trolls

I'll bow out now. y'all have fun with the little circle jerk you got going on
OK. bye.

I'm pretty sure the explanation of what was wrong with your design went right over the top of your head. No point in sticking around if you are too fucking stupid to learn.

It's lot like it's our loss
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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just get a ruff stuff kit and build your own, however based on your questions I don't think you have the brain power....
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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It isn't about what he is choosing to build it from. It's about his design, which will not work in any way as a traction bar, but rather, will just be junk dangling under his truck.

I hope you put more thought into what makes a traction bar work, then he did.
There's a write-up here somewhere on how to build one for a Samurai. Just going to follow that. /shrug
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Good riddance.

Traction bars are a waste in a Super Duty. Longer rear leaf springs are the ticket for reducing axle wrap which is what Ford did for 2008 and later. 2011 and later SDs have even thicker leafs for combating axle wrap. I would swap in those before I ever tried some hokey assed traction bar.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:05 AM   #21 (permalink)
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On a tow rig, all you need is a bar under the spring to the frame, no shackle needed.
Don't use tractor shit either.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:03 AM   #22 (permalink)
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On a tow rig, all you need is a bar under the spring to the frame, no shackle needed.
Don't use tractor shit either.
This, it doesn't need to flex like a wheeler, so a bushing at one end and a heim at the other is all the flex you'd need. I built a set for a friend with a built up duramax just like that and it went from massive wheelhop to 3-4th gear rolling burnouts with no hop, and it'll take off straight on a launch now with no hop either.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This is the setup I use one bar bushings at one end hiem and shackle on the other



cant see the other end very well but it has a heim with a shackle that bolts to a bushing on the transmission crossmember. Controls axlewrap very well dosnt limit flex much.

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Old 04-17-2012, 04:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFascist View Post
Good riddance.

Traction bars are a waste in a Super Duty. Longer rear leaf springs are the ticket for reducing axle wrap which is what Ford did for 2008 and later. 2011 and later SDs have even thicker leafs for combating axle wrap. I would swap in those before I ever tried some hokey assed traction bar.
Completely disagree, any high powered super duty is going to have wheel hop. The 6.7 scorpion just doesn't make enough power yet to need them, but they will eventually. Also, deleted and spartaned 6.4 rigs use t-bars, and the pre 08's need them badly.

On a non-tow rig... just get Cal-tracs.... not good for a tow rig though.

Here is my traction bars on my tow rig.... this is really the ideal way to do it, nothing "hokey" about it. 2points at the axle and a shackle is stupid on a tow rig.




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Old 04-17-2012, 06:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The 6.7 scorpion just doesn't make enough power yet to need them, but they will eventually.
400HP and 800 ft. lbs of torque isn't enough power to cause wheelhop? are you serious? It's a suspension issue. Trucks with far less torque make wheelhop with weak suspensions.

Last edited by Panthers65; 04-17-2012 at 06:32 PM.
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