93 ex with doubler kit build - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

fordracing · 05-01-2012, 05:14 PM

I got my strong box from behemoth drivetrain. It has worked awesome for me and I have had no problems. Here is the website http://www.behemothdrivetrain.com/
Email: Jacob@behemothdrivetrain.com
Phone: (270) 230-7015

TRUST ME THIS STRONg BOX IS WORTH THE MONEY!!!!

1. Remove these things:
Both drive lines
Crossmember (be sure to support the transmission)
Remove exhaust from the down pipe.

2.Unplug wiring hareness from shift motor if you have 1354 T case if not, pull spedo cable out of the tale shaft for 1350's. Remove bolts holding Tcase to transmission.

3. Drop T-case out

4. Place new doubler case in and mount to tranny. Do not tighten all bolts down yet. Mount old T-case to strong box (I used a 1350 manual shift T-case so I had to extend the shift linkage).

5. On the explorers, there is a removable aluminum plate in the floor that all the shifters come up out of. This is where your new strong box shift lever will come out of. You will need to cut your own hole in the aluminum plate(I cut mine out with a cut off wheel).

6. You will have to extend your linkage (for the 1350 T-case), you may need to extend wiring harness for 1354 T-case because it will no longer reach the plug.

7. Now you need to modify your stock crossmember. I cut the crossmember just to the left of the tranny mount location. This allowed me to flip the piece I cut over so that the crossmember would not interfere with the front driveline. This is too hard to explain so I will get pictures posted by the end of the weekend for you guys to see.

8. Jacob from Behemoth Driveterrain said I did not have to build a second crossmember although I did for extra support and protection. I reinforced the T-case skid plate by placing metal rods in the grooves. I then welded them in place. Then I bolted the skid plate back on and made a template out of cardboard to make a bracket (1/4") that will be welded to the top of the skid plate and come up to have two bolt holes drilled. These holes will mount to the bracket that came on the strong box. I will post a pic by the end of the weekend.

9.You will need to extend your front drive line and shorten your rear drive line. Measure from the center of flanges to center of pinion flanges. after getting your measurements, I used a cut off wheel to shorten the rear drive line ( I did it from the axle side although I dont think it matters which side you do it from). They say you are not supposed to extend drive lines although I could not find a drive line that would work good from any nearby junkyard so I used a Bronco 2 front driveline because it would slip into the yolk of my transfer case. After adjusting the drivelines be sure they are balanced or you will have vibrations while driving (more important for vehichles that are used on the street).

10. The way I did my 2nd crossmember (step #8) made it so that my previous exhaust could not be used so I had to take it to a nearby exhaust shop so they could make a new exhaust system.

11. Now that everything is mocked up, you can fill your transfer case and strong box up with fluid. To do this, I dropped the rear t-case out (im not sure if you have to but that is the way I did it). You can fill the strong box up while it is in. I used 80W for the strong box and ATF for the original tcase.

12. make sure to go back over everthing and tighten all bolts. Paint all bare metal so that it does not get rusty.

Here are some pics that I do have at this time:

[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]IMG]http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/ford-racing-89/IMG_5645.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]

[IMG]

[IMG]IMG]http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/ford-racing-89/IMG_5648.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]

[IMG]IMG]http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/ford-racing-89/IMG_5650.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]

[IMG]

prosport33 · 05-01-2012, 05:40 PM

so when did you order it?

last year bout this time?

BennyBooster · 05-01-2012, 10:13 PM

This guy was spamming TRS this week, just trying to pimp his product without paying

fordracing · 05-01-2012, 11:33 PM

I ordered it in early September and got it in late march. Yes it took some time to get here, But now that I have it, I'm glad I waited. His new kits are said to be much faster to build now.

kemicalburns · 05-02-2012, 03:02 PM

will be interesting to see how it holds up. a few guys over on FSB got the first couple built and when they opened them up the workmanship was a little sketchy. Keep us posted

78Scronco · 05-04-2012, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordracing

I ordered it in early September and got it in late march. Yes it took some time to get here, But now that I have it, I'm glad I waited. His new kits are said to be much faster to build now.

Well if you ordered in September, after 5 others of us, that makes me feel good, NOT,,, considering I was one of the 'later' order's(June) and I still have not received one or refund. I did ask Jacob and he said he is still working on a redesign. Still some hope I guess.

d.d.machine · 05-06-2012, 10:08 AM

funny how the day this post was started was the day this guy joined pirate.

BennyBooster · 05-07-2012, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d.d.machine

funny how the day this post was started was the day this guy joined pirate.

He posted multiple threads saying the same exact thing on the ranger station a week or so ago, when I called him out he never replied. Sounds fishy.....

fordracing · 05-08-2012, 02:49 AM

Is there something wrong with posting the day you join? And who called who out? I'm confused.

FbOmRxD · 05-08-2012, 04:51 AM

so not this piece of shit?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...080&highlight=

fordracing · 05-08-2012, 10:11 AM

Not even close to that, mine, I believe mine is built right, no shotty work done. It shifts very smooth and very little shaft movement. Tolerances seem to be very low. I realize some people seem to absolutely hate him. There for awhile I was losing hope but he came thru and I'm impressed with mine. It's not easy to start a business building these. If it was, well there wouldnt be a market cause everyone could do it in their garage. I'm not gonna pick sides but just give the guy a chance to provide the new boxes and get past the old style.

05-01-2012, 05:14 PM	#1 (permalink)
fordracing Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Member # 217861 Posts: 6	93 ex with doubler kit build I got my strong box from behemoth drivetrain. It has worked awesome for me and I have had no problems. Here is the website http://www.behemothdrivetrain.com/ Email: Jacob@behemothdrivetrain.com Phone: (270) 230-7015 TRUST ME THIS STRONg BOX IS WORTH THE MONEY!!!! 1. Remove these things: Both drive lines Crossmember (be sure to support the transmission) Remove exhaust from the down pipe. 2.Unplug wiring hareness from shift motor if you have 1354 T case if not, pull spedo cable out of the tale shaft for 1350's. Remove bolts holding Tcase to transmission. 3. Drop T-case out 4. Place new doubler case in and mount to tranny. Do not tighten all bolts down yet. Mount old T-case to strong box (I used a 1350 manual shift T-case so I had to extend the shift linkage). 5. On the explorers, there is a removable aluminum plate in the floor that all the shifters come up out of. This is where your new strong box shift lever will come out of. You will need to cut your own hole in the aluminum plate(I cut mine out with a cut off wheel). 6. You will have to extend your linkage (for the 1350 T-case), you may need to extend wiring harness for 1354 T-case because it will no longer reach the plug. 7. Now you need to modify your stock crossmember. I cut the crossmember just to the left of the tranny mount location. This allowed me to flip the piece I cut over so that the crossmember would not interfere with the front driveline. This is too hard to explain so I will get pictures posted by the end of the weekend for you guys to see. 8. Jacob from Behemoth Driveterrain said I did not have to build a second crossmember although I did for extra support and protection. I reinforced the T-case skid plate by placing metal rods in the grooves. I then welded them in place. Then I bolted the skid plate back on and made a template out of cardboard to make a bracket (1/4") that will be welded to the top of the skid plate and come up to have two bolt holes drilled. These holes will mount to the bracket that came on the strong box. I will post a pic by the end of the weekend. 9.You will need to extend your front drive line and shorten your rear drive line. Measure from the center of flanges to center of pinion flanges. after getting your measurements, I used a cut off wheel to shorten the rear drive line ( I did it from the axle side although I dont think it matters which side you do it from). They say you are not supposed to extend drive lines although I could not find a drive line that would work good from any nearby junkyard so I used a Bronco 2 front driveline because it would slip into the yolk of my transfer case. After adjusting the drivelines be sure they are balanced or you will have vibrations while driving (more important for vehichles that are used on the street). 10. The way I did my 2nd crossmember (step #8) made it so that my previous exhaust could not be used so I had to take it to a nearby exhaust shop so they could make a new exhaust system. 11. Now that everything is mocked up, you can fill your transfer case and strong box up with fluid. To do this, I dropped the rear t-case out (im not sure if you have to but that is the way I did it). You can fill the strong box up while it is in. I used 80W for the strong box and ATF for the original tcase. 12. make sure to go back over everthing and tighten all bolts. Paint all bare metal so that it does not get rusty. Here are some pics that I do have at this time: [IMG] [IMG] [IMG]IMG]http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/ford-racing-89/IMG_5645.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] [IMG] [IMG]IMG]http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/ford-racing-89/IMG_5648.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] [IMG]IMG]http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/ford-racing-89/IMG_5650.jpg[/IMG] [IMG] [IMG] [IMG]

05-01-2012, 10:13 PM	#3 (permalink)
BennyBooster Registered User Join Date: Mar 2011 Member # 186066 Location: Medford, Oregon Posts: 251	This guy was spamming TRS this week, just trying to pimp his product without paying __________________ 1996 Ranger Caged, 1 tons in progress 1986 F350 gave 1 tons to him^^

05-02-2012, 03:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
kemicalburns Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Member # 61938 Location: Oregon City, Or Posts: 109	will be interesting to see how it holds up. a few guys over on FSB got the first couple built and when they opened them up the workmanship was a little sketchy. Keep us posted __________________ 94 Bronco 5.8/E4OD 6" Stage II 35" BFG 4.88's / Front Aussie/ Warn HS9500I

05-08-2012, 04:51 AM	#10 (permalink)
FbOmRxD Granite Guru Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 54585 Location: Portsmouth NH Posts: 851	so not this piece of shit? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...080&highlight= __________________ 94 Ranger-1 tons, 5.38s, linked, 1354/dana 20 doubler, caged, hydro, 4D's, and always breaking Tow rig: 99 F250 PSD, 6-speed, South Bend Clutch, 38R, Swamps 176 Single shots, Gearhead tunes, Airdog 150, water/meth, on 37's DD: 01.5 S4 Avant....stock for now

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05-01-2012, 05:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
prosport33 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2012 Member # 217722 Posts: 72	so when did you order it? last year bout this time?

05-01-2012, 11:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
fordracing Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Member # 217861 Posts: 6	I ordered it in early September and got it in late march. Yes it took some time to get here, But now that I have it, I'm glad I waited. His new kits are said to be much faster to build now.

05-06-2012, 10:08 AM	#7 (permalink)
d.d.machine Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Member # 11168 Location: Poulsbo WA Posts: 1,166	funny how the day this post was started was the day this guy joined pirate.

05-08-2012, 02:49 AM	#9 (permalink)
fordracing Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Member # 217861 Posts: 6	Is there something wrong with posting the day you join? And who called who out? I'm confused.

05-08-2012, 10:11 AM	#11 (permalink)
fordracing Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Member # 217861 Posts: 6	Not even close to that, mine, I believe mine is built right, no shotty work done. It shifts very smooth and very little shaft movement. Tolerances seem to be very low. I realize some people seem to absolutely hate him. There for awhile I was losing hope but he came thru and I'm impressed with mine. It's not easy to start a business building these. If it was, well there wouldnt be a market cause everyone could do it in their garage. I'm not gonna pick sides but just give the guy a chance to provide the new boxes and get past the old style.