Skid plate for bw 1350/54 doubler - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Skid plate for bw 1350/54 doubler

Trying to see what other people are doing for skid plates under their doublers. I'm thinking that the simplest solution is to mod two stock ones together, reinforce them and drill new mounting holes in the frame. I also cut the tranny cross member off at the bend and made the bend go over rather than under the driveline. Any helpful feedback or pics would be appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Made this using DIY4x4's poly bushing kits. Used 4 of them with tabs straight down from the frame.





Then welded a piece of 3/16" flat plate to the bottom.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Have you clocked your t-cases up yet? Got any pics of your rig's belly? There is a thread here about using a dana 300 clocking ring on the 1356. IDK if its the same pattern as what you have. As far as skid plates go, I am partial to the flat belly idea. I would be trying to install a flat piece of steel across the frame rails. Without pics its hard to be specific.

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Old 05-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Redpitbull: I have not clocked mine up, I figured if I just altered the tranny cross member I wouldn't have to. I would love to do a flat belly but I have no body lift so I cant lift everything up enough.
Josh: I am diggin ur design, if my rig was taller that would work but it is built very low so I need to make my skid plate as high and tucked up as possible. Urs just looks like it hangs down a little to mich for my application.
Thanks for your input guys.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Mine started out as a simple crossmember with a rubber snubber on it to support the weight of the cases and just the stock skidplate under it (reinforced a bit) moved back a few inches.

Eventually I got rid of the stock stamped transmission crossmember (after tweaking it on a rock), built a new one not too different from the one I used for the t-case snubber, then welded up some 3/16" steel plate to span between the two crossmembers, maintaining separability at the trans member so the whole skid can be dropped with the trans crossmember still in place when needed. The hole in the center is access for the bolt holding the snubber in place.

In doing so I gained almost two inches clearance over the stock t-case skid (land anchor).
T-case is clocked up one notch (D.D. Machine kit).



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Old 05-16-2012, 07:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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4x4junkie: I'm liking all of your variations, especially the little snubber. I made my own adapter plate so I will probably make something dismissed to your snubber setup. And being as I made my own plate, then I can clock the rear case to wherever I want correct? (within reasonable measure anyway)
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Old 05-16-2012, 02:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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*similar, not dismissed. Fuckin auto correct.
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 85dangerranger View Post
*similar, not dismissed. Fuckin auto correct.
Usually I can read through a casual typo, but that one did make me pause for a sec lol

As for clocking, I would say go as much with it as you can (within reason of course). I suspect the floor of the cab would stop you from going so far as to where you'd have lubrication issues with the case as long as it has a full quantity of lube in it (you'll probably have to park the truck tilted to get it fully refilled afterward though).
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How bout shifters? Anybody got any pictures of how they set up the sticks side by side? I think I know how I'm gonna do it but any advice helps.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Best pictures I got... (forgot to snap a pic when the whole thing was still sitting on the garage floor )


OE shifter works same as stock, the doubler shifter is push-down/pull-up (up is 1:1).

See this thread for what others have done
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ubler+shifters
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Okay one last question, Ive been told that I will have to modify my gas tank a little for cv clearance. How serious of alteration are we talking about? Can I just massage the corner with a BFH??
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Someone else might have to field that one... My BII has the gas tank at the rear (no interference).

I will say I've looked at the possibility on my '94 Ranger (plastic tank) and it looks like it's a good couple inches in the way. I do have a 20-gallon tank though. If you have a Reg Cab and a 16 gal tank, then maybe there's some hope for not having to make room for it.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I do have a regular cab, and I beleive my tank is a 16, maybe a 14. It's hella small, clearance looks like it will be a small issue, mainly the seam on the side of the tank and maybe the mounts for the skid plate...
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:20 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Well got both cases bolted up, massaged the tank with a mallet, drivelines, cross member, and skid plate all built. Just gotta finish the shifters and it's all done!
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:55 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Well let's get some pictures!

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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here is my crossmember and shifters, I got in a hurry to go on a run so I got some 2x2 and welded some 3/16" plate to them and welded the square to my frame, its hideous and coming off soon so I didn't take pics of it. buddy has the swag press brake so thats how we built the cmember, I think ill use it to build my skid plate. I am clocked up on the back case two positions from the stock one, beat the shit out of my floor with a sledge to make that work haha.

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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oh I countersunk bolts to mount the cmember to the frame, and here is a better pic of my shifters,


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Old 05-29-2012, 12:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Janderson4010: did u just weld nuts to round stock for the linkage?

Cyclegrip: will do soon, still trying to figure out the best way to post pics to the forum.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yes i did, i could have used better rod and bought some heims from summit or speedway but this cost me about 6 bucks down and the hardware store. Im a cheapskate haha, and they work great
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I like it, it looks simple and functional. I'm probly just gonna make mine out of flat strap, and round stock of the handles.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Yeah i thought i was going to make them adjustable so i bought threaded sleeves and allthread. Then i realized it would be easy to measure the rods and weld them exactly the length they needed to be. And i like wheeling better than building shift linkage ao there you go.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:03 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My son and I are working on an '89. I combined 2 stock shifters into 1 with lots of custom parts.






Short stick is doubler, tall is stock.


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Old 05-31-2012, 09:24 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Custom crossmembers, both inside the frame. Skid plate will be coming up soon.




[/quote]
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Janderson4010: I feel ya there.
Jeepdudejay: that's some pretty custom shit, looks like you took a lot of time and made some nice parts. Looks good, let's see some pics of the bII
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:35 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Jeepdudejay: that's some pretty custom shit, looks like you took a lot of time and made some nice parts. Looks good, let's see some pics of the bII
OK.
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