Early Bronco Dilemma

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Originally Posted by RANGERROD

What's wrong with their corner guards? Just curious friend of mine is thinking of ordering them.

They don't fit worth a damn. Flat out, and to boot they won't honor the fact that they dont firt. And this is not like a smidge here and there more like 1/2 inch gaps. There is a huge debockle about it on Classic broncos . com over this shit and there is a new "BC fucked me and now I'm shocked" thread about once a month. Flat out if you need shit for an EB get it from the big 3, Duffs, Wild horses, or Toms bronco parts. Jeffs bronco graveyard is so big they don't give a shit if they fuck up your order.

[sabas]

Hmmm sounds like someone got Chucked...

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Originally Posted by sabas

Hmmm sounds like someone got Chucked...

Sabas I never did and I won't. The only thing I ever got from BC was those brake lines that we couldn't get to fit when we were putting the 44 front in at Roberts. I wasn't pissed too much about it because I bought them with a gift certificate I got at bronco daze. I avoid that place with the mentality of if not now then later.

[maquet24]

Got some good news this last week. My buddy back in UT has put my new FI 5.0 in the mail. I'll start tearing the old 5.0 out this next week probably.

A few questions?

1) When replacing the fuel pump should I go electric inline or should I replace the tank and get an intank unit while I'm at it?

2) Do I need a fuel accumulator? Saw it on Wild Horses I think.

3) The new engine is coming with the computer and I have an aftermarket wiring harness installed already, but what else should I anticipate needing for the swap?

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Originally Posted by maquet24

Got some good news this last week. My buddy back in UT has put my new FI 5.0 in the mail. I'll start tearing the old 5.0 out this next week probably.

A few questions?

1) When replacing the fuel pump should I go electric inline or should I replace the tank and get an intank unit while I'm at it?

2) Do I need a fuel accumulator? Saw it on Wild Horses I think.

3) The new engine is coming with the computer and I have an aftermarket wiring harness installed already, but what else should I anticipate needing for the swap?

There are a couple ways to do this.

1 replace all the lines and run high pres from the tank as low and close to tank as possible.

2 same thing but an in tank high pres pump "most preferred"

3 run low pres from tank to accumulator under hood then accumulator to high pres to fuel rails then low pres return to the accumulator.

I'm doing No. 3 which I may end up scrapping for No. 1

The reason an in tank pump is so preferred is that the pumps last longer and have less of a chance for air bubbles. This could be a bitch though if you need to trouble shoot a fuel issue later on.

As for EFI what computer is it? AL9 I hope I'm jumping through a few hoops in the sake of running something different.

[broncman]

I am in favor external pumps with a pusher pump and an accumulator. It has been my experience that the external pumps actually last longer. Parts count and price is what drove manufacturers to in tank units. External pumps have now came down in price and just makes things easier to work on. For the price of one aftermarket tank set up for internal pump, I can do the whole efi fuel system using external pumps.

Not sold on the price of an atlas vs d20 yet either! What kills d20's is two things... worn internal parts letting the gears "flex" apart and loose full tooth engagement. Worn intermediate shaft will do this. Cause popping out of gear as well...wear in the inside race area for the large roller type bearings let the intermediate shaft deflect under load.

Second, driveshaft bind from axle wrap or full travel at droop or combination will take out the output shaft.

On a good rebuilt stock box I run a healthy 5.0, c4 and 42 inch tires...Lots of wheelspeed, full throttle assaults everywhere from Mickeys Hot Tub, Upper Heldorado, Lower Damnation, Slick Rock, Helicopter Pad( tearing up now, sob...sniffle..)....All on 42the TEL and D20.

Cure your axle wrap, driveshaft bind, and box internal clearances and the D20 is more than enough...

[maquet24]

I like the external pump for all the reasons you've said ease of use, replacement, and the price ($40) isn't too bad either. I think I'll go with the external/accumulator combo. Probably a dumb question but does the pump come before or after the accumulator in the system? I would guess after.

As for the Dana 20 all the bearings and races looked good and honestly felt solid before pulling them out. I didn't notice any slop or room for much deflection. Coincidentally a buddy of mine destroyed his 20 last weekend too the difference being he had Terra Low gears. I would think that probably was a result of slop being that the gears themself are probably less than 5 years old.

As for the 20's rear output I don't have an issue with excessive droop but I have seen the possibility for axle wrap and was going to throw in a traction bar. RuffStuff has a kit for $195 which I've only seen cheaper through ballistic but I've heard such terrible things about Ballistic I may spend the extra $15 with RuffStuff.

[broncman]

I run a carter low pressure pump that feeds an accumulator made from a large diesel application filter head. You can make your own from any filter head basically. Just add a dip tube for the high pressure pump to pull from and add return ports for the high pressure return and one for the return to tank. Then a high pressure pump to efi filter and then to the fuel rails and you are good to go! This is from my diesel but same setup for efi.

[broncman]

[broncman]

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2225
This pump comes with brackets. Most autoparts stores have a generic inline pump for under 80 bucks...

[maquet24]

This is what I was thinking $40 for the fuel pump
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...onco_EFI_Tanks

and about $80 for the accumulator
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...onco_EFI_Tanks

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Originally Posted by maquet24

This is what I was thinking $40 for the fuel pump
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...onco_EFI_Tanks

and about $80 for the accumulator
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product...onco_EFI_Tanks

The WH accumulator is a fine product, however a large filter setup like broncoman posted is cheaper and just as effective.

[maquet24]

Originally Posted by br0nc0xrapt0r

The WH accumulator is a fine product, however a large filter setup like broncoman posted is cheaper and just as effective.

I believe you but after reading Broncoman's post and looking at the pictures it feels a little bit like Rocket Surgery to me. I'm sure I could do it but I think that the troubleshooting that would ensue may not be as cost efective as getting the WH one.

[American]

Originally Posted by maquet24

I was driving it about 20-30 miles a week on the road. I have had a vehicle that had the spool in the rear that was a daily driver and I wasn't a big fan so I was definitely a little weary of it. It's a good point about the added stress on the shafts too.

Gear Ratio is 4.11. It's pretty good for running around town but I think will be a little high if I go to 37's or larger when I'm out on the trail.

I have been thinking the same things about the HMMWV tires/wheels as you said. I was originally really hung up on the necessity for bead locks having come from Utah, but after wheeling this last weekend and seeing that no one had them and their tires operated pretty great on the terrain at 20 PSI I'm thinking your right that the added weight of the rims wont be worth it.

As for Lockers I still think that (besides a functional T-case) it was what I was lacking most. The Posi actually worked pretty good at slow speeds on rocks (counterintuitive) but as soon as I got some wheels speed the diff's started acting like they were open.
I think I'm willing to risk a little rear axle stress due to a spool.
I do have hubs up front so I could just keep them unlocked running around town. Besides increasing my turning radius offroad with the positive lock up front are there any other disadvantages to welding up the front?
I may just do this incrementally too and try out the spool in the rear and see if I'm more satisfied with the Broncos ability to climb hills?
What do you think?

4.11 would work if you like wheelspeed, and/or you swap in an Atlas with a real low gear ratio.

I'm not sure who you went with, or where you went, but we run low pressure in the south also. We need it too. I wasn't saying that HMMWV wheels aren't worth it, but I was just reminding you of the weight of them. There are other beadlock options out there other than H1 wheels. In the south, you aren't going to get much heat for running beadlocks on the street.

[maquet24]

Felt motivated today

[maquet24]

Pulled the gears from the replacement t-shift case. And got the old j case stripped, painted, and pretty much ready for the rebuild.

[maquet24]

Rebuilt! I learned a ton in the process, feeling pretty confident for future t-case repairs.

Basically what I did was swapped the j gears for the lower t's, cleaned the internals, repacked the bearings, and replaced the gaskets and seals.

[American]

Now give yourself a nice little pat on the back, and get back to work

[maquet24]

Originally Posted by American

Now give yourself a nice little pat on the back, and get back to work

Nice. Just waiting on the engine to get here now, hoping it arrives before the weekend.

[maquet24]

Alright the new engine got here today. i'm going to apologize in advance for all the dumb questions that are going to come.
First dumb question; what is the lowest left pulley in the picture. It looks liked it circulates coolant to the heads but one of the lines is cut and goes nowhere, what should I do with it?
Also while i'm asking, what should I do with the AC and the heater lines?

[Quick & Dirty]

Originally Posted by maquet24

First dumb question; what is the lowest left pulley in the picture. It looks liked it circulates coolant to the heads but one of the lines is cut and goes nowhere, what should I do with it?

That looks like the AIR (air injection reaction) pump, commonly called the smog pump. It pumps air into the exhaust to help burn up remnants of unburned fuel. Up to you if you want to ditch it or keep it. I would think a '66 would be emissions exempt most places. You'll have to plug the holes in the heads if you remove it.

[maquet24]

Got the smog pump and AC pulled, indexed the tensioner, replaced most of the freeze plugs, and replaced the leaky valve cover gaskets.

Questions:
1) what should I do with the holes that are now in the back of the valve heads from the smog pump? Does someone sell a plug kit?
2) does anyone know what size belt I need now (i'm hoping to avoid buying 6 of them to figure it out)
3) it looks like my old headers are going to work. What should I do with the O2 sensors from the old manifolds? Can they be eliminated or do I need to cut holes and weld nuts into the headers for them?

[maquet24]

So I've been pretty busy with work but managed to swap in the new engine. Some things i figured out: 1) new belt size is 79" 2) it it's easier to cap off the smog line than to build plugs in the back of the heads 3) an electric fan will not fit with my stock radiator without some legitimate modifications.
I got the fuel pumps and accumulator installed, hooked up most of the electrical, made all the mechanical connections. Just a few more loose ends and i should be able to start it up this weekend.

[Totalled]

Late to the thread, but if you're worried about body damage, build a BII with full widths as the wheeler. They are still cheap enough to not care.

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

As for headers I recommend Wild horses shorties, I have them and they are fantastic. You will need to have O2 sensors in the headers or shortly there after to tell the EFI computer what is going on. If you really want to use your old headers then you can buy O2 sensor bungs from some place like summit.