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Old 06-28-2012, 03:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need a part number.

1996 F250
Dana 50
5.8W

Doing the balljoints Saturday. I need the locknut socket. There's a NAPA and a Sanels (PartsPlus?) in town. I can't find the part number to see if the sell them. Anyone know if they do? They're all closed right now so I can't call. Thanks.

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Old 06-28-2012, 03:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...180_0109503479

That the one I need?
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It had a dent so we had to cut it off
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it should use the same one as a d60 front iirc, never worked on any 50's, but the d60 locknut spindle wrench deal doesn't have anything in the middle. the one i had for my 94 looked like this.

manufacturer's part# is KDT3246
http://www.buy.com/prod/spindle-nut-...213482077.html
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fatdan I have no idea what your trying to say and thats goes for about 90% of the shit you post.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hm. Appreciate that. I'm going to stop in tomorrow and see what they have. Perhaps they'll know off hand. I hate dealing with those guys because of the five that work there, one knows what he's doing.

I'm reading forums now (mostly diesel forums are coming in my searches if that matters) and I see that most of them have that socket dealio in the center.

Thanks again.
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It had a dent so we had to cut it off
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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from the ad of the one i posted:
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Features and Benefits: Removes spindle nuts on 4-wheel vehicles. Will work on Ford vehicles with ratcheting type lock nuts on front axle. Length: 3.24. Outer diameter: 2.63; Inner diameter: 2.27. Uniquely designed lugs for maximum strength. This 4-lug wrench removes spindle nuts on 4-wheel vehicles. It features uniquely designed lugs for maximum strength. Use with 1/2; square drive tool. Will work on Ford vehicles with ratcheting type lock nuts on front axle. Ford F250 heavy-duty axles, 1985 to current models; F350 heavy - duty axle 4 x 4, 1985 to current models; and 1987 Chevy 30 Series along with DANA 501FS and model 60 mono-beam axles. This is not to be used with power tools.
combine that with the fact that i am always fucking right and you need not search anymore
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I'm disappointed You're nowhere near as fat as i had expected you to be.
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fatdan I have no idea what your trying to say and thats goes for about 90% of the shit you post.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just pulled spindles off a D50 on my other truck this past weekend, the beams were off a '92 and it had the Chevy style/ 3 piece setup that uses the 4 prong socket. My '94 ball joint 60 has them as well, but a buddie's '92 D50 had the retarded old style spindle nut, so I'm pretty sure 1992 was the split from the old style to the new.

If you've got the old one, it's a 2 3/4" 6R (6 sided, round) spindle nut socket. This one also works for D60 rear axle spindles.

Pretty sure both of mine came from the tool aisle at Vatozone for $20 or so apiece.


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One on the right is Great Neck P/N: 33625966

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Originally Posted by JM93LiftedYJ View Post
Never seen one like that. Looks like it's supposed to fit in the spindle where the axle shaft goes, but it doesn't have much room to get a breaker bar or ratchet in the hub. Get the other style I have pictured above.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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gotdammit! i'm not wrong, but i'm not 100% right they use like 3 different sockets and whether you have manual or auto lockouts changes it too.
http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-sock...-p-111958.html
http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-bear...-p-108029.html

my truck had auto (gay) lockouts and it used the one i first posted. it was the only "specialty" tool i recall buying when i had to tear it down and do new bearings races and seals. never bought any of the regular 6 sided sockets.

fuck it! just use a screw driver and hammer and save the cash and head ache
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I'm disappointed You're nowhere near as fat as i had expected you to be.
Ugly, sure, but not all that fat.
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fatdan I have no idea what your trying to say and thats goes for about 90% of the shit you post.

Last edited by fatdan460; 06-28-2012 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatdan460 View Post
gotdammit! i'm not wrong, but i'm not 100% right they use like 3 different sockets and whether you have manual or auto lockouts changes it too.
http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-sock...-p-111958.html
http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-bear...-p-108029.html

my truck had auto (gay) lockouts and it used the one i first posted. it was the only "specialty" tool i recall buying when i had to tear it down and do new bearings races and seals. never bought any of the regular 6 sided sockets.

fuck it! just use a screw driver and hammer and save the cash and head ache
Doubt it, unless there is a major difference between the 3 and 5 screw auto hubs and their spindles, which I highly doubt. My buddies used the old style nut, and had manual hubs, but other sources I've read say that the 3 screw auto hubs were more likely to come with the old style. I really think it's whatever they had in supply at the time that they switched over, and in many cases people switch over to the Chevy/Late Ford style nuts when they switch to better manual locking hubs.

For the OP, new style on the top (good), old style on the bottom (ghey)



This weekend I also removed the manual lockouts on the '92 D50, and threw them in my '94 D60 hubs which originally had the automatic 5 screw locking hubs. Both are interchangeable, and both utilized the Chevy/Late Ford style spindle nuts.



I think our mystery is solved here though:



Quote:
IHI1318: Features: -Use on 1987 E350 to current with Dana 80 rear axle and 10-1/4" ring gear.-Use on 1988 to current F super duty with Dana 80 rear axle and 10-1/4".-Use with 1/2" square drive toolSpecially designed wrench removes Ford high-sheer ratcheting lock nut on popular Ford F250/350 series trucks. Special features include a centering snout to help locate the special axle nut and uniquely designed lugs for maximum strength. Use on rear axles of 1985 and newer 2 - wheel - drive Ford F250/350 trucks. .-Ford F250/350 Trucks Spindle Nut Wrench. Specifications: -Use on 1985 to current Ford F250-350 with Dana 80 rear axle, and 10-1/4" ring gear. Warranty: -Lifetime warranty does not cover abuse.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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And just to add to the variety, two kinds of Chevy/Late Ford style spindle nuts exist.

We've got the one's pictured above, with no outer tabs and one inner location tab on the washer:



And the others that do have outer tabs, and a little knub on the inner nut to hold the washer in place:



These last ones are necessary for the automatic hubs to engage. There is a sprag on the back of the auto hub that uses the tabs in order to hold still with the spindle, so that when the inside driver turns, they engage. The kind with tabs are what I surmise any of the factory ones will look like. Either will work with a manual hub of course.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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FYI if you want the awesome ratcheting style nuts just snag them from a 10.25 rearend. That's what I did. Way better having a single nut to worry about. Oh and my '97 d50 had a odd auto hub style nut on it.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Heh, lot more tech than I anticipated. Saturday should be interesting. My buddy has a few spindle sockets. Hopefully I'll be lucky enough that he has the correct one.

Thanks all.
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It had a dent so we had to cut it off
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The 3 bolt autos take the rounded hex, everything else I have seen came with the 4 prong nuts from the factory.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Got a lot of it apart tonight. It is one of those four prong dealios. My friend lent me a socket, but it was too small. I think his is for a D44. I'm hoping has something. Its about 2" from prong to prong. I'll be driving around tomorrow looking to see who has one.

This is actually going a lot smoother than I thought it would be. Hub assemble came out nice. Got the nut on top of the knuckle off. Cotter pin sucked to get out though. Tie rod is off. Really all that's left is the spindle and using the press to get the ball joints out.

I appreciate the help guys.
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It had a dent so we had to cut it off
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