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Old 03-27-2003, 11:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Running TTB D44 without a C-clip

I'm planning to run my TTB with no c-clip so when my shaft breaks I can fix it easy on the trail. I'm trying to find out exacty how I go about doin in, I know you put a spring in the slip joint. But I can't find what else you need to do. I was looknig at the ARB Website since this is what they do, but I didn't see anything on their page either.

Any help would be great.
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Old 03-27-2003, 11:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Get a spring in the slip, and you don't need a clip
If you dont run a clip or a spring the carrier or axle spline get munched
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Old 03-27-2003, 11:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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ok so there is nothing special to it, just get a spring that will fit in, that wont be fully compressed when installed and your good to go.?
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Old 03-27-2003, 06:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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depends, i know someone with a cut and turned dana 35 that did the spring trick, well he has to much travel and it blew out the end of his slip joint.


what he did was


went to trator supply and found a collar that fit the shaft snug. and then mounted a bracket off the ttb that the collar couldnt go past, so the axle shaft couldnt come out.


its hard for me to explain but i will find some pics of it for ya
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Old 03-27-2003, 07:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sargon
ok so there is nothing special to it, just get a spring that will fit in, that wont be fully compressed when installed and your good to go.?
I recall reading about it in a 4WPW catalog in thier D44 info page, they said to use a valve spring.
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Old 03-28-2003, 06:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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change over to a older d44ttb center section. Instead of an internal cclip it has 3 bolts on the outer housing and a seal that needs to be pried of so removing it is alot easier. check my superford for some pics between the 2 housings

http://www.superford.org/registry/?vID=182
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Old 03-28-2003, 07:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the ones with the bolt on passenger side shaft are going to be a little harder to find parts for. it is one of those things you should stay away from.


Just call $WP and ask them which spring they use.

Try using the search engine here and Google.
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Old 03-28-2003, 07:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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granted I think they changed over 1/2 way through 83 so 80 thru 83.5 has them but they are way eaisire to use, plus I carry an extra one with a new u joint already pressed in for a trial spare.
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Old 03-28-2003, 01:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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On the slip shaft when you use a valve spring you will want to tack weld the end cap by the u-joint. I didn't do it and have blown out two caps.
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Old 03-28-2003, 01:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I used a '79 Honda 1500 CVCC outer valve spring. Was almost perfect length. You want it to be under about 0.3-0.5" compression at static ride height.
You may want to put a couple tack welds around the dust cap on the backside of the yoke. Its just pressed in. After 6 years the pressure from the spring finally popped it out. Fortunately I found it right as I was going to do routine maintenance.

Theres nothing else you need other than the spring.
I needed it for the ARB, but not having to pull the pig for shaft replacement is an added bonus. I've busted a couple other shafts (joints), but not the right-inner one yet.

elbronco beat me to the cap welding part Its not uncommon for it to pop out, but easy to prevent.
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Last edited by 4x4junkie; 03-28-2003 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey Phill,

Need to have the cap welded like the others said-



As for the spring, I just went down to the hardware store and bought a couple of whatever fit inside the slip joint. I think it was 1-1/8" dia x 3" long.
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