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Old 08-07-2016, 04:34 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Imo Reid fucked up big time favoring the piss poor and never desired Chevy steer arm location. Guys buying those knuckles are not installing them with OE steering components on "stock" trucks. Solid is the same way. Early Reid designs had the high Ford arms. Idk why it was changed.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:01 AM   #177 (permalink)
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Imo Reid fucked up big time favoring the piss poor and never desired Chevy steer arm location. Guys buying those knuckles are not installing them with OE steering components on "stock" trucks. Solid is the same way. Early Reid designs had the high Ford arms. Idk why it was changed.
I know they favor the Chevy design because the rest of the knuckle is supposed to be thicker/stronger. Agreed that steering location isn't desirable though. They call out in the instructions that they favor the Chevy design and even make a point of saying that putting the TRE on top of the Chevy location ends up the same height as a stock Ford location. Never mind that most people flip the TRE on top of the Ford knuckles so its ends up being even higher. Though as you said, for most this is moot since people often end up with high steer on aftermarket knuckles.

I'd imagine dropping the Ford design was a matter of tooling simplicity, this way they can make a single knuckle and then just machine different holes for the spindle for Chevy vs Ford.

I suppose you could argue they could've taken the best parts of each and made a single knuckle with the Ford steering arm location and the Chevy "strength". I imagine this isn't some high volume profit machine though. Mine are serial number 13xx so presuming that's sequential they've had less than a million bucks in gross sales on these things ever.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:44 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Yeah I'm sure production cost was it but as you said, combine the best of both while you're engineering a one-off knuckle anyways. Seems my D44 knuckles had the correct steer arms but perhaps all 44s have the same steer arm?

I guess I'm just bitter towards Reid and I'm letting it show. Can't speak about the product. Could be phenomenal. I dealt with somebody very arrogant when it came to upgrading my knuckles and I can't help but think the entire organization carries a shit don't stink philosophy. Deal with their terms or go elsewhere was his bottom line. Good enough for me.
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Old 08-09-2016, 04:37 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Yeah I'm sure production cost was it but as you said, combine the best of both while you're engineering a one-off knuckle anyways. Seems my D44 knuckles had the correct steer arms but perhaps all 44s have the same steer arm?

I guess I'm just bitter towards Reid and I'm letting it show. Can't speak about the product. Could be phenomenal. I dealt with somebody very arrogant when it came to upgrading my knuckles and I can't help but think the entire organization carries a shit don't stink philosophy. Deal with their terms or go elsewhere was his bottom line. Good enough for me.
That's too bad. I had a great experience when I ordered. Very nice, knowledgeable, etc. They're also local to me so I was inclined to support them.
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:32 PM   #180 (permalink)
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How long have you been running inner fender-less? Any issues?
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:35 PM   #181 (permalink)
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How long have you been running inner fender-less? Any issues?
About a year, and they've been hacked up to a pretty minimal amount long before that. No issues, I just zip tied everything up out of the way. My biggest concern is the computer and its wiring is very exposed and right behind the tire something could pretty easily kick up into it. Other than that I'm not too worried about it. But I should add that I go out of my way to avoid mud!
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Old 08-12-2016, 03:51 PM   #182 (permalink)
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I go out of my way to avoid mud!
Thats where most of my dents came from!! Trying to avoid that headache....
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:08 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Well its all back together.



My puckup is in the shop though and its too close to the garage to get off the trailer so I couldn't test drive it
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Old 08-18-2016, 04:47 PM   #184 (permalink)
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...its too close to the garage to get off the trailer...
Raise the jack, pull the tire chocks, and do a WOT drop into Reverse - the trailer will get out from under the Bronco.
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:40 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Raise the jack, pull the tire chocks, and do a WOT drop into Reverse - the trailer will get out from under the Bronco.
Fix one problem, create another, sounds about right
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:31 PM   #186 (permalink)
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or just borrow a buddy's truck to move the trailer out enough
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:39 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Raise up a floor jack and lower the hitch onto it and roll it forward.
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Old 08-19-2016, 08:58 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Its off the trailer people

Successfully drove it around the block. Twice.
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:02 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Its off the trailer people

Successfully drove it around the block. Twice.
Then what?
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:34 AM   #190 (permalink)
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Talking

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Then what?
I drove it to work recently

Unfortunately no wheeling or wrenching lately, been busy with life and such.
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Old 11-27-2016, 10:00 PM   #191 (permalink)
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Small update, but I bothered to take some pictures so that must mean something?

So apparently I can't never work on this thing and expect it to just continue to work. Not gonna lie, I've lacked motivation lately and though the truck works there's a whole lot of little things that I've just been neglecting. Sooooo I finally started. Basically all of my radiator and heater hoses looked like poop, case in point:



So I bought a bunch of hoses and shit



Took errything apart, including thermostat housing, figured I might as well throw a thermostat in it since I'm this deep. The coolant coming out of the truck was embarrassingly gross. I flushed the system 3x with water. Got a few new hoses on, of course one of those weird size bypass hoses that goes from the water pump to the heater core is the wrong one so I'm back to parts hunting and called it a day.

Next project will be to fix some under hood electrical stuff. There's a lot of haggard stuff and my auto fan controller has been broken for months now so I run the fan off a switch in the cab, not ideal. I'd love to get a generic waterproof relay holder with 6-8 relays and a nicely labeled pigtail coming out. I swear I've seen such things a bunch in the past but I spent quite a bit of time on the interwebs tonight and couldn't find anything that satisfied...

Also my fancy-pants Odyssey battery is dead, after a LOOOONG 3.5 years :roll: What a joke. I was seconds away from buying the autozone brand AGM today but the sizes they have don't fit in my custom Optima/Odyssey sized tray. And I really don't want to rebuild that tray, again. Also the autozone AGM's are basically in the price range of Optima. Do I risk Optima again? I've had shitty luck with several Optima's. I'd love to just throw a slosh-slosh in the thing but I really don't want it in a wheeler. I put cheap slosh-slosh's in everything else.

Anywho, hoping I can keep some progress on this thing so it's properly ready for trips next year!
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:28 AM   #192 (permalink)
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Well, back to Optima



Hopefully I'll have better luck with these than my last optima purcase. Hard to imagine it'll be worse than the Odyssey I'm replacing.

I also cleaned up a little wiring under the hood and installed an adjustable fan controller since I've been running the fan of a switch in the cab for a while and it's error prone! New thermostat controlled fan is nice but out of habit I'm constantly looking for the fan switch and staring at the temp gauge probably not a bad habit to be obsessed wit the temp gauge I guess.
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Old 03-02-2017, 11:20 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Nothing crazy but I've taken some pictures so lets update

I drive the rig to work once in a while. Nothing like cruising next to priuses (priuii?), volts and teslas in this stupid thing.

So of course it embarrasses me... steering blew up in front of work. Downtown Mountain View, right next to $1.5M condo's... Took the train home and back to work the next day with a backpack of tools and parts. Fixed and yes, I brought some kitty litter and cleaned up the mess, don't worry



A blown up seal on the external filter was the cause



One of my tires wouldn't hold air so I wrestled it off and found some tears in the bead. Not terrible but not great... Used some rubber cement and ultra copper. Ultra copper fixes everything. Now holds air!





I'm also a body panel alignment expert. Nothing a few swings of the 3 pound sledge can't fix!

before



after

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Old 03-02-2017, 11:28 PM   #194 (permalink)
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Went to Pismo back in January over MLK weekend. Really lucked out. It had been raining like a SOB and the water crossing was so high they kept closing the park. The rain cleared for a few days before and after our trip and we had great weather.

Somebody burned a fairly new Dodge to the ground



We took pictures with the smoke from said Dodge



I took some poser pics on the beach





And was interrupted by a barrage of FSB's







And we accidentally created the largest gathering of brick noses in years!
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Old 03-02-2017, 11:31 PM   #195 (permalink)
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And the highlight of the trip was "supa flossy" on the right. A community rig that a few of us have about $1K into. 89, 351, C6, welded diff, a couple go fast motor parts, strip the interior, throw on 33s and these trucks are REALLY fun on the beach. I hit 65 MPH, high range, 2wd WOT in 3rd gear bombing across the ridgeline of the dunes. Fastest I've ever drove on the beach. More fun that it should be

The other FSB is a buddies budget race truck. Similar idea, welded diff, cheap, cheap, cheap and then beat, beat, beat. More fun that it should be!



Redneck wood bumper took a beating



And then we burned wood and drank from red cups. Because Pismo

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Old 03-02-2017, 11:51 PM   #196 (permalink)
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Very cool pics indeed !
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:34 AM   #197 (permalink)
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How low have you been running your tires on the BAD wheels?
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:44 AM   #198 (permalink)
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How low have you been running your tires on the BAD wheels?
March of 2015. See below:
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So I sold the trail ready bead locks I had on the truck previously and decided to get the new BAD wheels with the internal lock. I was looking for something a little more maintenance free and the DOT approval is a nice selling point. Their an unusual design but I like it, it’s a cool idea.

Surprisingly the hardest part of the whole thing was setting the beads, and this is no fault of the rim design. So the way these rims go together is you take off all the internal locking hardware, then mount the rim and inflate it like a normal tire. Then break just the back bead and prop the tire “open” with a block of wood or something and insert the locking hardware. I was anticipating the last bit of propping the tire open and inserting the hardware to be the hard part but it wasn’t too bad at all.

What was hard was getting the damn tires set on the bead! I struggled for a while using ratchet straps, sitting on the tire, cursing, bouncing it, asking it nicely, using both valves to try and get more in faster (more on that later). I really needed one of them tanks with a dump valve like a tire shop would have. The tires had been sitting on their sides for a long time too which probably didn’t help. Anyway I finally got one to pop with 3 ratchet straps and a little luck.

Then I deflated and popped the back bead with the trusty high lift into the receiver hitch method. From there assembly of the internal lock stuff was pretty easy.

A few before shots… the rims from the front



The lock ring installed, this has to come off to get the tire on



Ring removed showing the 6 “studs” that remain in place



I used some 2x4s to wedge the tire open and slide in the lock ring and the hardware



Here you can see the ring installed



And the nut and cotter pin



1 tire done with rock ring installed. Note the rock ring is strictly to protect the bead of the tire and the rim, it serves no function to the bead lock.



As mentioned earlier there are 2 valves on the tire. 1 is just a traditional schrader valve. The other is both a schrader valve and a speed deflator. I used the deflator after setting the bead and it deflates FAST. And the best part is you can measure air pressure from the first valve as you deflate from the second.



So now that I’ve got a system worked out I’m hoping to knock out the other 3 pretty quickly. All in all I don’t think these are any harder or any more work than a traditional external style bead lock. In fact I might say that if you did these regularly they’d be faster. Yeah it’s a little hard to get to the hardware but there’s only 6 nuts. Not 20, 24, 32, etc. like the external style locks.

Anywho, I’m pretty satisfied so far. Time will tell how they work!
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:47 AM   #199 (permalink)
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March of 2015. See below:
I think he was asking how low of pressure, not how long. I just got these wheels too (mainly because of this thread) and would like to know.

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Old 04-21-2017, 10:34 AM   #200 (permalink)
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You can run extremely low...on the trails and in the sand at EJS, we were all running at anywhere from 5psi to 10psi (in fact, we aired down when we arrived, and didn't air up until the drive home, so we were running on the streets all week at low pressure, too).

I was running 5psi in my JKU without even a hint of an issue. Our video guy, Blake, was running the same...5psi. Jerry was running at 8psi. We were running on the sand dunes at 60+MPH, and around corners in the sand at 40+MPH without any problems at all (Videos coming soon).
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