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Old 06-04-2013, 08:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Dan's 90 FSB build

Hi Pirate, I’ve been stalking the Ford forum for a while and thought I’d start a thread on my junk. If you just came for pretty pictures there’s a bunch of those so read on. If you prefer a tease before the show here’s the background and where its heading.

I bought my 90 bronco back in high school at the ripe old age of 16. It was a chromed out beauty with a 4” rancho lift and 35’s. I was hot shit.



Over the years I built the 8.8, replaced it with a 9” and eventually settled on a 14 bolt that’s in it now. I’ve had a variety of leaf springs and shackle configurations. I re-geared the TTB, put in a 5 lug 44, then 8 lug outers and after breaking a bunch of stuff am finally manning up to a 60. Current build goal is to quit replacing every 2-3 years!

This was one of my last wheeling trips before tearing out the 44, Rubicon summer 2012.



Truck currently has a stockish 351W, ZF5, 203-205 doubler, 14 bolt rear locked with 4.56 gears and disk brakes, Deaver rear leaves with a ruff-stuff shackle flip.

There’s probably a detail or 2 missed in there but consider yourself up to speed. So here’s the current plan for the front:
- 91 kignpin 60, 4.56 gears, grizzly locker, chromo shafts, 35 spline outers, artec truss, etc…
- 3 link with ballistic joints, DOM upper link, considering aluminum lower links, lots of ballistic brackets
- re-use my 6” deaver coils from the SAS with ballistic adjustable coil towers
- bilstien 5150 255/70 valving, hopefully 2 on each side
- figure out bump stops or limit straps down the road

The truck is meant to do be able to do it all - Drive to and from the trail (somewhat comfortably), go (relatively) fast in the sand dunes, rock crawl on the Con and carry 4 people and there gear while doing all these things. A tall order!

So it had to start with tearing out the 44



And the old suspension stuff. Will eventually be selling this pile of parts



I wanted some sturdy stands to work on the 60. I’ve had an axle roll off jack stands and threaten to remove a toe so I built these with a deep pocket for the axle to sit in, worked really nicely



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Old 06-04-2013, 08:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Then I spent some quality time with the grinder and removed a section of the drives side perch and all the other mounts that I wouldnít be needing.



This was fun to remove



Test fitting the Artec truss



To remove the kingpins, I followed the advice in this thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-easy-way.html
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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and cut a groove into the kingpin and they came out really easy. This is def the way to go.





Then spent many hours welding the truss on. Iím using a Lincoln 180HD with .035 wire. I did the welds a few inches at a time and jumped around the axle to avoid putting too much heat in any one place. The welder is also only 30% duty cycle so I took regular breaks







Done with a coat of primer

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Old 06-04-2013, 08:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Iím using ballistic fabís adjustable coil buckets. My frame was swiss cheese from having 2 different sets of coil buckets on it in addition to all the damn factory holes that Ford makes.



So I plated over it



And tacked in the coil towers. These are about 2.5Ē forward of the stock location. I basically went as far forward as I could without getting into the steering box.







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Old 06-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The passenger frame was holy as well



And this hump was in the way. The black marker line shows where the coil mount needs to be welded and the stupid hump is obviously in the way



So I did the only logical thing and cut it out!



Primed and ready for weld



Welded in this mess





And then I was left with this gap to fill



More plate and more weld

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Old 06-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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And then tacking in the coil bucket mounts





As anyone with a TTB truck knows, the engine crossmember is a nightmare and becomes a totally overbuilt mess when you no longer have suspension arms bolted to it. So I cut it out



All kinds of room!





Welded these on, theres a piece of 2x3 .250 wall that bolts between them







I’m planning to add some triangulation to these, something perpendicular to the plate to help with lateral forces (left to right forces relative to the driver seat). I also have a 2x2 .250 wall crossmember welded in at the front of the frame behind the bumper so that will help make up for any slack in this crossmember.

Flame away at my shitty welds, poor fabrication, bad ideas, misspellings or other shit you can think of
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It's looking good so far. I'm glad to see you cut out most of the factory ttb crossmember. Far too much time has been spent trimming and plating those big bastards. You may want to lay a few beads where the crossmember attaches to the frame as the factory rivets like to work themselves loose, especially if you've lifted the ttb. Are you planning to build a crossmember at your frame end link mounts? I may be interested in picking up your Cage parts pretty soon but shipping could be killer. There's a lot of real estate between us.
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I should add that I don't trailer the truck so it has to stay street legal and be safe on the highway at 65. The build would be going in a different direction if I were trailering.

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It's looking good so far. I'm glad to see you cut out most of the factory ttb crossmember. Far too much time has been spent trimming and plating those big bastards. You may want to lay a few beads where the crossmember attaches to the frame as the factory rivets like to work themselves loose, especially if you've lifted the ttb. Are you planning to build a crossmember at your frame end link mounts? I may be interested in picking up your Cage parts pretty soon but shipping could be killer. There's a lot of real estate between us.
Agreed on the crossmember, easier to just hack it out and build something new then try and patch it together.

Im planning to weld the remaining bits of the crossmember to frame.

The frame end link mounts end up right next to the transmission crossmember so the answer is kind of. My trans / doubler crossmember is a fubar'd mess though that will need to be replaced. So whatever that ends up being will hopefully better address the trans / doubler mount and also strengthen where the link mounts hit.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Why not go coil over? All that work for coils?
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:11 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Why not go coil over? All that work for coils?
yeah, i thought about it... money was a big factor, i already have coils and good bilstein shocks. I'm also kind of in a hurry to get this done for some summer wheeling and I don't know the first thing about setting up coil overs properly... valving, spring rates, blah blah blah. Call me a lame-o
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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lame-o!

sick build, been following this for a while. still post on FSB?
i miss my FSB.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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lame-o!

sick build, been following this for a while. still post on FSB?
i miss my FSB.
Thanks

yeah I still check fsb once in a while, its just a diferent animal from pirate. You still buikding that go fast van?
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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it did not survive my first attempt to go fast in it...

saved a bunch of the parts for a dent side F350 i'm building up now. probably wont try to drive it quite so fast...
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My 205 hangs down super low so I wanted to clock it up, I also needed to get at the frame to figure out where I'm gonna mount the top link of the 3rd link on the frame.

205 and doubler adapter back on the garage floor...



Going to use this clocking ring from northwest fab to gain some clearance



Mounted on 205 for test fit



Gonna have to get creative here!

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Old 06-19-2013, 02:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Take your pick- sawzall, jigsaw or 4" anglegrinder.

EDIT- You gonna twinstick it right away?

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Old 06-19-2013, 02:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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lame-o!

sick build, been following this for a while. still post on FSB?
i miss my FSB.
Then build one and post a build thread on there too, the sas section over there is slow and boring these days ..

This is a sweet build man, I've been ever so slowly cleaning up the same axle to swap into my 93 f150 down the road. Keep all the pictures coming
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Take your pick- sawzall, jigsaw or 4" anglegrinder.

EDIT- You gonna twinstick it right away?
angle grinder for sure! its my favorite.

Already triple sticked (203-205 doubler). I used the kit from Off Road Design. Nice pieces and it took a lot of the work out of it.



Came with all these mini heims and threaded bits and pieces, it works really well



It's pretty cool to be able to do front only, rear only or 4WD in any ratio 1:1, 2:1 or 4:1.

I've already drove home with a blown up rear driveshaft - removed it from the rear axle yoke, ratchet strapped it to the frame, popped the front in high, rear in nuetral, lock the hubs and boom, FWD, just like the economy cars!

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Then build one and post a build thread on there too, the sas section over there is slow and boring these days ..

This is a sweet build man, I've been ever so slowly cleaning up the same axle to swap into my 93 f150 down the road. Keep all the pictures coming
Thanks, looking forward to seeing your build too. I know how the parts collection process can go, I've had this 60 in my garage for over a year.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Parts, cutting, welding and shit

Bolted in my new engine crossmember



Left a little clearance for the oil pan, hopefully this isnít too close.



Much cleaner than that huge TTB thing!



After some head scratching I came up with a plan for the lower link mounts that I like. I re-used a bunch of holes in the frame from the Cage mounts. The driver side has 4 bolts into the side of the frame and 3 in the bottom. The link mount shares one bolt so I can get the angle perfect and then weld it to the angle iron. Iím also planning to build the trans crossmember off this mount too.





The passenger side bolt pattern is a little crazy, I re-used the holes from the Cage mounts and those holes were crazy, hence these are crazy.





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Old 06-23-2013, 09:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I think this big piece goes roughly here





I cut out the top of the stock coil buckets and welded them into the ballistic adjustable buckets that Iím using.



With the axle in the right place I built some PVC links to figure out the right length. Note in the pictures Iíve got a rubber bushing on both ends, this was just for mock up, when itís done, Iíll be running a bushing and a ballistic joint.









Itís kinda starting to feel like somethingÖ
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:15 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Its coming along nicely. Looks like you are able to use a couple of the same ideas that I used in my build. One thing you might want to check is clearance on that crossmember you built depending on what your ride height is going to be. The crossmember that I built that was very similar to that didnt have enough clearance and I ended up making an even smaller one. I dont think I put a picture of it in my build but ill see if I can take one today. How is your placement for your upper coming along?
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I ordered 7075 aluminum links from ballistic fabrication this morning. I've bent .250" DOM on this truck so I thought I'd try something different. The aluminum will supposedly flex up to 15% and retain its original shape. Could be awesome, or the worst mistake ever

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Its coming along nicely. Looks like you are able to use a couple of the same ideas that I used in my build. One thing you might want to check is clearance on that crossmember you built depending on what your ride height is going to be. The crossmember that I built that was very similar to that didnt have enough clearance and I ended up making an even smaller one. I dont think I put a picture of it in my build but ill see if I can take one today. How is your placement for your upper coming along?
I've copied a lot of your ideas

I'd love to see what you ended up doing with the engine crossmember, like you said, I'm worried it'll get in the way even as slim as it is especially with the giant Artec truss. I'm having a hard time imagining how to make it much smaller though!

I'm going to attempt to use this for the upper on the frame:

Artec Industries Adjustable Inner Frame Bracket
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Here is what I had to end up doing for the engine crossmember. I was only able to use 1 bolt on the driver side and so I just angled a piece of tube over. I think this was like 1.25 inch DOM. It is definitely not as strong as the 2x4 that I first had on it but with the frame plated and the crossmembers that I put farther up on the frame I figured it would be strong enough.

Your truss might still hit it even if you were to make it like mine though. You might need to move the axle forward a little bit.

Frame bracket looks nice and strong
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:49 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Oh man that is skinny! I guess I'll see how mine is looking before I make any decisions but I fear something like that might be in my future. The thing is, even if thats 1.5" DOM thats only 1/2" narrower than the 2" square tube I'm using. Gonna have to start slapping stuff together and see...
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:41 AM   #24 (permalink)
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My work area to escape the 90+ degree heat



Figuring out the lower coil mounts. I welded the stock lower mount to a piece of plate.



Might need a little gusseting



Lower link mount tacked in



Passenger side



I bought a cool link mount from Artec thatís for C channel frames. Doing some mock up:



The main plate was shorter than the frame so I cut a slight incision, bent it and welded it back



Then welded this mess to the frame





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Old 07-02-2013, 08:41 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Then the rest of it welds on to the first piece





Then I figured out the location of the upper link mount on the axle









My buddy Rich came over and helped. We got all the brackets tacked on the axle and then pulled it out of the truck for final welding





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