Wristed radius arms....................

[1uglyranger]

Here's my next "help me" question. Has anyone made there own, ya know, home grown stuff. I want to try, but would like someone else to be my guinnie pig....

[smurfsdad]

here is boyds, if you are capable of doing it then you will be able to figure it out from the pics. if you cant figure it out from the pics i suggest you dont do it http://hometown.aol.com/stknrdr/wrist.html

[ 09-29-2001: Message edited by: smurfsdad ]

[Venumb]

Please forgive me for asking what may be a "newbie" type question but...what is the purpose of a "wristed" radius arm?

I've seen extended radius arms and even heim-jointed radius arms, but this is the first I've ever seen a "wristed" radius arm before today.

[Nobody]

Originally posted by Venumb:
<STRONG>Please forgive me for asking what may be a "newbie" type question but...what is the purpose of a "wristed" radius arm?

I've seen extended radius arms and even heim-jointed radius arms, but this is the first I've ever seen a "wristed" radius arm before today.</STRONG>

[Venumb]

Originally posted by Nobody:
<STRONG>

</STRONG>

Whoah <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">...nuff said!

[Nobody]

Yep, it's bolt on flex. If you build your own it probably costs less than $20. Do a search on google or something and you'll find a lot of info. I need to get my butt in gear and do mine. I figure it will take about a day.

This is one of the best reasons to drop a EB 44 in your broncoII.

[EBSTEVE]

WOW Mr Nobody is that your Bronco. When are you going to get yours done? I got my 60 finished and seems to go good now I need to get the front geared and locked hopefully soon I am going to be out of work soon. Any word on the steering stuff?
Steve

Originally posted by Nobody:
<STRONG>

</STRONG>

[Nobody]

umm yeah, their both mine, I just have them loaned out right now <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Maybe we should have a gear swap party. We can race! Still haven't called Quinn, but I was thinkin about it yesterday. I am picking up a few new fenders(better than mine) next week and I'm going to start scabbing on that EB grill you gave me.

[1uglyranger]

Smurfsdad, thanks for the link... I think I need to get my a$$ in gear, and get a second set of arms to play with. Who did your machine work?? If you did it yourself, wanna do me some too.. I think that is the only thing that I wouln't have a clue how to do, or have the equipment to do it..

Nobody.... are those EB springs in the front of those BII's, if so, how is the ride, I am still having mixed feeling about all coils, and everyone is shooting down my ideas, but not giving me any new one's. All I know for sure is that my springs suck!!!!!!!!

[Nobody]

Originally posted by 1uglyranger:
<STRONG>Smurfsdad, thanks for the link... I think I need to get my a$$ in gear, and get a second set of arms to play with. Who did your machine work?? If you did it yourself, wanna do me some too.. I think that is the only thing that I wouln't have a clue how to do, or have the equipment to do it..

Nobody.... are those EB springs in the front of those BII's, if so, how is the ride, I am still having mixed feeling about all coils, and everyone is shooting down my ideas, but not giving me any new one's. All I know for sure is that my springs suck!!!!!!!!</STRONG>

Both those trucks are not mine. The camo one is FearMe on this board. They are both BII bodys on EB frames.

I on the otherhand have a BII with 302/ D44/NP435/D20. Basically all EB stuff. I used the Duff 3.5" EB coils. They work absolutely great. Very soft, and they flex very well. The wildhorses 5.5" coils are supposed to be good as well. I might actually try them some day when I get around to changing the coil buckets. The Duff coils cost me $115 for the pair. It just doesnt' get any better than that.

I can assure you that you will be perfectly happy with the duff coils.

[EBSTEVE]

I built mine you do not need any machine work I used bolts to hinge and pin. All you have to have is a sawzall to cut the arm ant material and a welder ( not a 110v ) and a drill some time and patients. I am not saying a sawzall and drill are the best way but I do not have a plasma cutter or a drill press. I have heard plenty of people say that they would not trust a bolt for the hinge but I have seen plenty that do it and never a problem I would go grade 8 and put in a grease fitting.
1uglyranger you said you need to get another set you do understand that only 1 arm gets wristed and the other stays stock?
Steve

[67FLAT4]

Does it matter which side?

[welndmn]

not really but its more common and a better idea to do the Passenger side

[Tonka_sam]

Hey I have an extra one i just had made Email me if interested c-cdungan@juno.com
CHUCK

[1uglyranger]

Why only wrist one?? Why not both??? If one is good, then two would be awesome,,,,RIGHT???? I dunno...just thinking outloud.

[EBSTEVE]

Originally posted by 1uglyranger:
<STRONG>Why only wrist one?? Why not both??? If one is good, then two would be awesome,,,,RIGHT???? I dunno...just thinking outloud.</STRONG>

if you did both nothing would hold the axel from floating all over and that would be trouble.

[tiessen]

Why you only need to wrist 1 arm:

When 1 side is compressed, the axle rotates backwards into the rear of the front fender. When the other side is drooping, the axle rotates forwards towards the front of the front fender. This creates bind that the C-bushings must take up and limits flex. Wristing 1 arms allows the R side to either rotate forward or backward to match the L side when flexing.

ps. With a 4 link, this is not an issue.

Question for everyone: Where do you mount the shock on the wristed arm? In front or behind the pivot and did you use the same stock shock mount?

[Nobody]

You only wrist one arm, cuz the other is needed to stop the axle from spinning. Besides, as shown above, 1 gets the job done just fine!

[Kevbo]

One un-jointed radius arm is needed to control the caster angles.

Since the drive shaft is close to, and nearly paralell to the drivers-side radius arm, keeping that one stock keeps the pinion pointing at the transfer case, more or less,
and at more-or-less equal distance. Only the rear U-joint (T-case end) sees high angles.

If you wristed only the driver's side, the front U-joint would also have to be a high angle type, and you'd need a lot more slip range in the shaft.

-KF-

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: Sparkey in a no-spark ]

[injectedEB]

the passenger side is the best to put it on, otherwise the driveshaft is probably going to bind up. If you are going to make a home-brew'd arm with a bolt I would suggest going as big of a diameter as you can get in there, I would also suggest a grade 5, not grade 8 - the grade 5 is more ductile and therefore is better in shear loading, also it will show signs of impending failure, where a grade 8 will just shear off. I don't know about you, but losing a radius arm at 75mph on the highway isn't highon my list on of "must do's". Another suggestion would be to use a brass or oillite bushing so you don't wear the bolt.

[robellis77]

Sorry BRS this has been covered many times:
GRADE 5 IS NOT BETTER TO USE AT CRITICAL POINTS!!!!!!!!!!!
End of story <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">

[injectedEB]

Originally posted by BroncoRob:
<STRONG>Sorry BRS this has been covered many times:
GRADE 5 IS NOT BETTER TO USE AT CRITICAL POINTS!!!!!!!!!!!
End of story <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

.....insert dimwitted response here......

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: BRS ]

[Nobody]

I'm with broncoRob. The grade5 vs grade 8 has been beaten to death. Someone posted some good data on this, and the grade 8 bolt exceeded the grade 5 bolt in all categories.

[robellis77]

Being an engineer you should be one who looks at and understands cold hard facts and finds answers for yourself, right???
Do a little search and read the data. Heres a start http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bol...tification.htm

[injectedEB]

Originally posted by BroncoRob:
<STRONG>Being an engineer you should be one who looks at and understands cold hard facts and finds answers for yourself, right???
Do a little search and read the data. Heres a start http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bol...tification.htm</STRONG>

OK - I win the newbie dumbass award - I spent most of the evening pouring over my old class notes and books trying to figure out why my profs had told me that - well I conviently forgot that they also mentioned that with grade 5 you would need to increase the diameter of the bolt - so yes I am the dumbass, for a given bolt diameter, the higher the SAE rating the higher your safety factor should be ... a lower rating will show more signs of plastic deformation before final failure, but will not gain any safety factor.

-another dimwit convinced by a urban legend....

Only thing I did get right is you will be better off if you can put a bushing or something of the sort in the system so the bolt is in tension, the shear proof strength is raised when the bolt is preloaded in tension... or did I get that wrong too?

..I've been doing too much computer type stuff <IMG SRC="smilies/sleep.gif" border="0"> - time to go back to school and try to remember what I forgot...

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: BRS ]