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Discussion starter · #143 ·
Ok time for an overdue update. So the current plan is to swap in a ZF5 speed that is on it's way as we speak. Going back to manual will give me back over drive and that third pedal Ive been missing.

For transfer case and doubler, I found a Behemoth shorty doubler like the one I have on the C4, except this one has 1356 guts, 31 spline input and the correct pattern for the ZF5. So all I will have to do I swap the trannys and then swap the new doubler onto the dana 300 and save me a bunch of money from going to an entirely different setup.

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Also I picked up a console from RockRanger a couple months ago and just finally go the motivation and warm weather to put it together. Its very nice and great quality! I painted it with rustoleum metal iron paint. It will get installed when I get the ZF5 put in.
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That's the same setup I'm running. I just put my doubler back I after a rebuild. I moved the vent to the back half of the T-case and put an updated planetary in. I'm also going to run ATF instead of gear oil. Hopefully that'll keep it from puking the oil out when I get up to 45mph.

Weren't you having the same problem?
 
Discussion starter · #145 ·
That's the same setup I'm running. I just put my doubler back I after a rebuild. I moved the vent to the back half of the T-case and put an updated planetary in. I'm also going to run ATF instead of gear oil. Hopefully that'll keep it from puking the oil out when I get up to 45mph.

Weren't you having the same problem?
When I first installed my current doubler, it was puking fluid, but it was over serviced and I didn't have a catch can. I made a catch can and serviced it with less oil and I haven't had a problem with the fluid since. I did have several shift mechanism problems, but have also cured that in the current box and this new doubler has a different internal shifter than the previous 2 versions Jacob tried and it looks like it should.

When I swap this new setup in I'm also going to run ATF as well
 
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the new internal shift mechanism would you? Is Jacob still in business? He won't respond to me any more. He promised me a new box as a warranty due to the issues I've had. He stopped responding to me a year and a half ago.
 
That looks like the same design I have. It would pop into neutral on me when I was going forwards down hill or accelerated then let off. I adjusted the detent adjuster about as far in as it will go with the lock nut still working. Hope that fixed it. If not I'll find a longer spring.
What did you do to fix the shift issue you were having?
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
That looks like the same design I have. It would pop into neutral on me when I was going forwards down hill or accelerated then let off. I adjusted the detent adjuster about as far in as it will go with the lock nut still working. Hope that fixed it. If not I'll find a longer spring.
What did you do to fix the shift issue you were having?
The problem I had was that it wouldn't stay in high range at all, any speed or gear. The fix was a different shift mechanism. The first 2 styles Jacob tried are different than the current style. I hope this one doesn't pop out going downhill, that could be bad off road
 
Discussion starter · #151 ·
Oh I see. I'm thinking it might be the depth of the shift detent holes...


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The only thing I can think of for your problem would be taking the case down, splitting it open and grabbing the shift collar and wiggling it back and forth to see where there might be any play. You can try tightening up the detents but there is only so much a little detent can do in terms of holding power. Does it do it in high range only or does it do it in low range also?
 
Discussion starter · #153 ·
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I finally got this pig. ZF5 47 from a 96 f250. I bought it off ebay 2 months ago. The original one I bought the salvage yard noticed a crack and sourced another from a different yard. They sent me that one and it was an M50dr2... So here we have the third transmission 2 months later. And they didn't want the m50d back so I have that laying around now...
 
You're going to have to cut those two tabs that extend rearward off the bell housing to get it to fit in the trans tunnel FYI.


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Discussion starter · #156 ·
well I guess I will finally update this thread. I got the ZF5 in. It was a beast. I had to massage the trans tunnel a little bit even with the 2'' body lift. Also I had to cut the ears on the bell housing to make it fit. It was an extremely tight fit but I got it in and made a new trans mount and a new tcase support. I had to redo my headers and collectors with the zf5 in. I ditched the custom ones I made since they couldn't work no matter how I tried, and put some hedman 88400 headers in. Then I made a nice y pipe with 2.5 from the collectors and 3'' from the y pipe back and dumped it out the side in front of the tire.
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I used a stock 1991 ranger master for the clutch, but I used a 96 slave cylinder on the transmission. This was the first pain in my ass. The 96 slave has an orangey/yellow quick disconnect and the 1991 clutch line looks like it should fit but it doesn't mate with the slave. I then tried a 96 clutch line and it fit in the slave but leaked like a faucet from the master. Then I tried a 1993 clutch line, it fit the 1991 master and had the right orange/yellow aluminum quick disconnect for the slave and worked.

I then promptly went wheeling and it ran great and sounded great. Unfortunately that is when I ruined the engine.
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I was just messing around in some loose sand doing some donuts and noticed the temp climbing a bit so I went over to park and meetup with the rest of the group. When I stopped, smoke came out of the engine bay and the passenger 02 bundle fell onto the collector and caught on fire. I extinguished the fire and thanked god nothing else lit. I let it cool down and started it back up and it seemed to run fine, even with the destroyed 02 wire bundle. I wheeled it the rest of the day and crawled all over the place. When we got out of the desert and hit the road, I had pretty much no power it felt like and little acceleration. I limped it home and figured it was the 02 that melted. I fixed the wiring and replaced the 02 and still no power. Compression checked the engine today and across all cylinders I have 40-45 psi. Surprisingly it doesn't smoke out the exhaust. The oil smells like gas though. So my rings are shot across the board. And thats where I'm at now.
 
Discussion starter · #158 ·
Only thing I can really think of is it ran rich with the bad 02, washed the cylinder walls down with fuel. I didn't think it got hot enough to toast the rings, but that could have happened. I saw the temp hit 230-240 before I killed it, but who knows.
 
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