9" gear setup question

[XJEric]

I have 9" out of a 79 F150 I'm putting in my Cherokee. I tore the read end apart and there was a shim between the pinion yoke and the top bearing on the Pinion. I ordered a overhaul kit from DTR and it didn't include this shim? Is it something I need to reuse or is it not suposed to be there?

Also, is there suposed to be play in the bearing support between the two bearings? I can move the suport about 1/8 of an inch. When I cant remember from when I took the old one apart if this is normal. Thanks guys!


Any links to 9" gear setup sites? I've doen Dana axles, but not a Ford.

[injectedEB]

the shim is to set pinion depth so you get a good pattern on the gears - if you have a good pattern then you don't need it, otherwise you probably do need it.

[Kevbo]

The shims that set the pinion depth go between the pinion head (gear) and the inner bearing.

Between the yoke and the outer bearing may be a slinger, which looks like a thick shim. Normally not included with install kit, it can be re-used.

It's function is to help pump oil out of the outer bearing, and also to reduce hydrodynamic pressure on the seal.

[injectedEB]

yea - what he said - sorry should have read closer...

[7thgear]

did you ever find out if there was supposed to be play in the pinion support...cause i'm having the same problem and wondering if it's normal or not.

[mudtoy67]

Damn, this thread is old. There should be no in/out slack on the pinion. With the pinion housing removed and the proper preload shims installed under the outer bearing, there should be just a slight drag when the pinion is rotated. To be technical I think the number is 12-15 inch/pounds torque.

On a 9" the pinion depth shims are not between the head of the pinion and the inner bearing. They are where the pinion bearing housing bolts on to the chunk. The shim that is between the pinion yoke and the outer bearing is there to sling oil away from the pinion seal to help prevent leaks. There should be some shims between the outer bearing and a crush sleeve which presses against the inner bearing on the pinion shaft. These set the pinion bearing preload.

edit:welndmn reminded me of the crush sleeve

[welndmn]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

did you ever find out if there was supposed to be play in the pinion support...cause i'm having the same problem and wondering if it's normal or not.

no, it means there is something wrong with your crush sleave.
remove the pinion suport and go buy a solid spacer kit.

[FearMe]

After all that get someone that knows what the f*** they are doing and have them check it out. If you don't your going to ruin some good gears, guaranteed. If not this time then the next time because your going to figure your pretty damn good and try it again on someone elses rig that will cost you even more. Gear changes are not brain surgery but you have to know what you are doing.

[crawldaddy]

Wow!!!!!!

[7thgear]

I found this thread with a SEARCH feature thank you very much.....didn't realize how old it was though.

I found out my crush sleeve was overcrushed and I installed a new one, torqued it down and the play isn't a problem anymore.

Anyway, I'm installing 4.86 gears. In order to adjust backlash, you must move the ring gear towards the pinion until there is zero play, then work your way out until you have ~.007in backlash. My new problem is that the ring gear is hitting the housing for the pilot bearing before it meshes with the pinion gear so there is zero backlash. I was wondering if I can grind down the housing for the pilot bearing a little so it doesn't rub? Basically, will it severely weaken the housing and cause it to give under high pressure?

Thanks for the help so far, i'm 17 and most of this stuff is new to me.

[welndmn]

Yes, anything over a 4.56 gear in a stock case requires you to grind it.

[7thgear]

grinding away!!!

[NetBSD]

grinding a little outof the way wont weaken it alot, nothing i ever worried about