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Old 04-06-2004, 11:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question '91 ford ranger

I have acquired a '91 ford ranger that I am thinking about modifying a bit. Any advice? Is it even worth it.

Before I get into that though the first thing I need is to get the 4 wheel drive working. It is one of those stupid Electric shift with the little black box behind the seat. When I push the 4 wheel drive or 4 low button on the dash all I get is a couple of relays clicking in the little box behind the seat. Anyone have any advice on where to start with troubleshooting??
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Old 04-06-2004, 11:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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it's an ok starter rig depends on what you want to do with it. for mild wheeling it's fine for extreme wheeling it will need extreme modification for the tcase troubleshooting check www.therangerstaion.com they have info over there about fixing the electronic shift motor which is the most likely problem. or change out to a manual t-case
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Old 04-06-2004, 06:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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pull the cover of the motor on the tcase, i belive its a t 20 tamper proof torq bit, steel wool the contacts and it should work.


the ranger stock is a ok starter, you have the ttb front end which isnt the best off road. if its the d28 you will break shafts left and right. you can easily upgrade to the d35, direct bolt in but you will still have ttb which isnt the best offroad.

A d44 swap is fairly easy on these vehicles and improves the offroad abilty greatly. Check out www.rrorc.com for felllow ranger wheelers
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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tell ya what, save yourself the trouble with the electric POS. Get out a cutting tourch and a welder, cut out the front end and graft on a Dana 44, loose the 7.5" and slide a 9" in the rear. Yank the motor for a 302, hook up a NP435 with a Dana 20 and yer done.
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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locking hubs

I will try cleaning up the motor tonight. My next question is about locking hubs. What would it take to install locking hubs?

The most complicated thing I have done was to rebuild the engine in my my old '74 F100. So I am a little green so feel free to treat my like an idiot. (I must be feeling ill to say someting like that here)
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the hubs depend on your front end. Do you have a d28 or a d35?

Both www.rrorc.com and www.therangerstation.com can help ya figure that answer out.
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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electric shift

let me ask some more retatrded question.

How do the lights for the buttons work? What cause them to light up? The black control box? A sensor in tranfer case? Or something else?

I am guessing it is a sensor. Which would mean that the problem is either the motor, or something before the motor like the control box.

If the signal for the lights is sent from the cntrol box rather than the sensor on the transfer case then perhaps my problem is in the control box?

If everything else were good and the hubs were bad the lights would probably still turn on?

I guess in the end my simple question is, What makes the lights turn on???
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Old 04-07-2004, 12:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImNotRight
the hubs depend on your front end. Do you have a d28 or a d35?

Both www.rrorc.com and www.therangerstation.com can help ya figure that answer out.

I thought it ws a 28 then I read the following "The Dana 28 was the original front axle offered in the 4x4 Ranger and was available until 1990." which makes me wonder if my 1991 has the dana 35. The numbers from the tag are as follows
(line one) 4 10 triangle F17AXA
(line two) tirangle 610365-11

If you know of site I can look that code up please let me know. The link at the ranger station was broken and the only thing I could find out was the F17AXA which is all what I already know and doesnt tell me the size.
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Old 04-07-2004, 01:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the ranger station is up right now...the first link provided had it spelled wrong

you have the D35.
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Old 04-07-2004, 04:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: electric shift

Quote:
Originally posted by caverspencer
let me ask some more retatrded question.

How do the lights for the buttons work? What cause them to light up? The black control box? A sensor in tranfer case? Or something else?

I am guessing it is a sensor. Which would mean that the problem is either the motor, or something before the motor like the control box.

If the signal for the lights is sent from the cntrol box rather than the sensor on the transfer case then perhaps my problem is in the control box?

If everything else were good and the hubs were bad the lights would probably still turn on?

I guess in the end my simple question is, What makes the lights turn on???

the lights are controlled by the box behind the seat. the motor tells the box its position and the box handles the lights. If the box is clicking and the lights are blinking, it's more than likely a dirty motor..

yes if the case motor was working right the lights would come on regardless of the hubs. they're purely mechanical.
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Old 04-07-2004, 04:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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rangers are junk

find something else
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Old 04-07-2004, 05:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well, they also had a dana 35/28 hybird axle, that used 28 guts in a 35 axle. These were found in the non 4.0 rangers.

This link should explain it.
http://www.therangerstation.com/4wd_Front_Axles.html
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Old 04-07-2004, 06:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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STRAIGHT AXLE THE MUTHA FAWKER!!!!
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Old 04-08-2004, 09:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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update

I tore apart and cleaned the moter as well as the contacts on the control box behind the seat. It now works. See how easy it was. Ok not really. Now I have to replace a few U-Joints probalby should do all of them. The one on the passenger side tire makes a nice poping noise when I turn the corner. Funny how things rust up after a few years of not being used. Is there any easy way to change the u-joints?

I should probably just save my money and use it for a dif locker on my monetero sport instead...
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Nah. You'll be happy with this once you get some maintenence done. I bet if you started beating on your montero you'd be kicking yourself.

It's just basic repair work for maintenence that was never done. no biggie.

If you want the easiest way, go to harborfreight.com and buy a ujoint/balljoint press, when they're on sale for $30. Makes u-joints a freakin cake walk.

BTW, that clunking could just be the hub being damaged if it's an auto hub.
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Old 04-08-2004, 11:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImNotRight
Nah. You'll be happy with this once you get some maintenence done. I bet if you started beating on your montero you'd be kicking yourself.

It's just basic repair work for maintenence that was never done. no biggie.

If you want the easiest way, go to harborfreight.com and buy a ujoint/balljoint press, when they're on sale for $30. Makes u-joints a freakin cake walk.

BTW, that clunking could just be the hub being damaged if it's an auto hub.
I dont know, My monetero made it up poison spider without any problems, a rear locker would have been nice though...


It is an Auto Hub, and I plan to replace them with manual hubs eventually. Although I am nearly positive that it is the ujoint on the wheel, I can physically see that it does not look right and you can see where the rust has cracked and broken free.

perhaps I will run over to harbfreight on my lunch break and take a look at the press and see what I think..
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImNotRight
Nah. You'll be happy with this once you get some maintenence done. I bet if you started beating on your montero you'd be kicking yourself.

It's just basic repair work for maintenence that was never done. no biggie.

If you want the easiest way, go to harborfreight.com and buy a ujoint/balljoint press, when they're on sale for $30. Makes u-joints a freakin cake walk.

BTW, that clunking could just be the hub being damaged if it's an auto hub.
is this what you had in mind??

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
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Old 04-09-2004, 12:36 AM   #19 (permalink)
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the ttb is way better than the ifs in the montero, and a hub swap is like packing bearings.
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Old 04-09-2004, 07:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by caverspencer


is this what you had in mind??

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
Yup. That thing is tits. I've done dozens of joints with it and it just keeps getting easier. Hell half the time you when you can't get the clip out all the way, it'll push right through it.
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Old 04-09-2004, 10:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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frozen joints

I had that tool and yes it works great, but I heard you say something about rust, if the joint is frozen in the yoke apply pressure when trying to remove it and at the same time ting the cap with a ball pein hammer. Something about the pressure combined with the right resonance makes the things come free, hope this helps if you encounter that problem.
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Old 04-10-2004, 06:01 AM   #22 (permalink)
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just pull the shaft out and change it, I had to do it on my BII, it'sd pretty easy...
Locking Hubs for the D35 (which you have) would be easy to install, just make sure you get the right ones...
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Old 04-10-2004, 09:22 AM   #23 (permalink)
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That tool from harbor frieght is great.

Where are you in Utah?

D44 it with a 5.0.
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Old 04-12-2004, 12:33 PM   #24 (permalink)
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update

It is indeed the u-joint (although the hubs may be bad as well) Ive got the thing ripped all the way apart down to and including removing the spindle and dust shield behind the spindle. All thats left is the steering knuckle. At this point should the driftshaft just pull out? That was the impression I had. But It wont budge, my repair manual said something about the dif being locked if the vehicle wasnt level. So if I just jack up the other side and get make the front end level will it just pull right out? I can spin the front drive line by hand and the whole thing turns, well except the drivers side because the tire is on the ground. Would my playing with the drive line have something to do with it? The fact that the passenger side that is free turn and the drivers doesnt, may have locked it?
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Old 04-12-2004, 12:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by moab_b2
That tool from harbor frieght is great.

Where are you in Utah?

D44 it with a 5.0.
I live in Eagle Mountain (utah county).


It is indeed the u-joint (although the hubs may be bad as well) Ive got the thing ripped all the way apart down to and including removing the spindle and dust shield behind the spindle. All thats left is the steering knuckle. At this point should the driftshaft just pull out? That was the impression I had. But It wont budge, my repair manual said something about the dif being locked if the vehicle wasnt level. So if I just jack up the other side and get make the front end level will it just pull right out? I can spin the front drive line by hand and the whole thing turns, well except the drivers side because the tire is on the ground. Would my playing with the drive line have something to do with it? The fact that the passenger side that is free turn and the drivers doesnt, may have locked it?
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