This was the ranger that all the axles and components are coming off of

Every year I take a week off work, the week of presidents day to build a project. For the last 2 years its been our mega truck bronco that this Bronco 2 is the "mini me" of. So the first day of "Hell Week" we tore apart the ranger.

We then pulled in the Bronco 2 and torched off all the stuff we no longer needed. My next step was to create my own Driver TTB beam bracket. I found the stock bracket was 5.5" roughly off the frame.

The lift that was on the bronco 2 was one I had never seen before, this piece slips inside the stock bracket and gives you a 3" and a 5" drop.

I measured the 6.5" drop bracket I had on the ranger and it verified that the stock was about 5.5" from top bolt to mounting hole.

Next for the passenger drop bracket, we took the plate drop along with the stock bracket and moved it 6.5" to the other side of the front cross member. Along with moving it we shifted it toward the passenger side 0.5". I will have to modify this bracket for full bump in the future, but its a good starting point.

 

Since I have a cnc plasma, I took some measurements off the stock mounting location of the driver beam bracket and quickly CAD'd up one that is made for a 3.5" lift and is pushed toward the driver side 0.5".

 

After tacking on the front bracket I moved on to the rear, I started by welding on the Artec truss Ive had sitting around for years.

Heres a quick picture of the C5 mated to the 1350/1354 doubler. The C5 was sent out to my friends shop (Mount Holly Transmissions in Pemberton, NJ) to be rebuilt with all c4 parts and a c4 reverse manual valve body.

After installing the trans and t case and placing it where I wanted it, I started with the 4 link mock up in the rear. I was going for about 100% Anti Squat.

This is where I thought I was going to use as ride height.

 

Everything is tacked welded together and set how I want it, time to build the link bars.

I had to make custom upper links on the frame to make it so a nut could fit between the bracket and the frame plating. I decided to test out the new press brake I got from Swag Offroad too.

Then I realized, Oh crap, I cant pull the trans and t case as one with this new cross member, can I still remove the t case? Thankfully I could with ease.

Link Bars done, I used 1.25" lower heims and 7/8" uppers, I had the 7/8 floating around and figured they would be fine for a light rig, I can always upgrade later.

 

Pinion Change is very minor as the bars are very close in length.

Next we started cutting out the inner fenders and the side of the B2 for the comp cut, later I will be going back and making a piece for the front of this area to fill it in.

I started making brackets and mounting the coilovers, I realized that the frame had to be notched, also a buddy of mine has done this before and he had to notch his to avoid the tires hitting the coilovers.

Heres a quick plate I made and I will come back and add top and bottom braces to to notch the frame.

With the frame notched, the coilover fit a lot better and we were almost able to get full articulation, but the body was hitting the tires.

 

So far I have one side mocked up, I was only able to get 2" of up travel because the coilovers I am using for mock up have foam bumps on the shaft. Any more than this 2" of up travel and I will be hitting the body with the tires. I need to get some 2" spacers for the wheels so that I can push the tire farther from the body. I am already running 15x10 wheels with 3.75" backspacing. I will replicate this on the other side and try various suspension positions to see how everything works. I will be leaving everything tacked together till I get the information together for my spring rates on the kings ill be buying.

 

Quite a bit of nice fab work!
You have all the fab tools in the world and you're using the drop plate for the passenger side pivot mount? If I was going to be doing what it sounds like you'll be doing, I'd build a bracket for that side too and never worry about it.
Skyjacker braces the driver side pivot mount to the engine cross member, I know you've stretched it but you might want to consider throwing a brace front the low bracket to the driver side frame rail
'cause after all, needs more triangulation :flipoff2:

 

I dig it. Agree with above, you can't brace TTB enough.

I like how you're keeping it narrow width with relatively large tires for the size of vehicle, and that it's also staying TTB. I'm interested to see how well it works with the 4 link in the rear.

 

You might want to reconsider those pvc links as well... :flipoff2:

 

You might want to reconsider those pvc links as well...

Haha Everytime I post those photos during builds I get this :flipoff2::flipoff2:

 

Yea I will be redesigning the pass drop. I'm gonna have to as it will contact the d35 chunk. I did the 1" stretch on width in the front to help with that. But also eliminate issues with the center u joint on pass side. I'm currently clearanced and cut down on it now. But yea I still need to brace both brackets heavily. I just wanna get it rolling before I go back and start making changes. I have the skyjacker 6.5" lift on the ranger frame front end portion. I wanna design my own solid one however.

 

@ForMud

Figured Id tag you, I know youd find it anyway and give me shit for keeping TTB haha:flipoff2:

 

Just came across this....TTB ????? Must mean two tits bouncing?...Or some Ford thing for weird camber?
I had it in a 87 full size Bronco once. Turned on a dime and never gave me a problem till I got rid of it at 200,000 miles on it.

 

Fawking ttb! :flipoff2: vetteboys shit is pimp! But he had a joint pull apart, needs a beef tripod cup for the center if you need slip while on the throttle with traction, lt ttb can be good for that:smokin:

 

Haha that's cause he's running RCVs. Stock axles shafts FTW:flipoff2:

 

Get rid of the drop plate. They punch holes in dana 35s...

 

Yes, I know... this is why I specified its temporary.. 3 times :flipoff2:

 

i will assume low traction mostly mud conditions and low hp is the reason for no issues.


still it is shocking.


with v8 power i regularly fawked up the 35, in the end mostly the spiders as i stayed away from the lockers after constant axleshaft destruction with the quick lok... and just used brake bias..shafts in good shape were getting hard to find and destruction of the 31 spline 8.8 arb's pushed me to go with the one ton axles. i cant believe the 28 spline shaft 8.8 takes the abuse with 40's. with the truss, 31 spline customs and floater ends i can see it making it though.

you can widen the track and go to a 50 style stub with the upgrade 35 carrier and run the 31 transmission spline slip from a big van or whatever with the 1350 joint for the center, and do the rcv on the outers. that can make for a beefy d 35 or any ttb axle.

here in the rustbelt the center slip is killable once wallered. rust sux...the stock shafts should work with the 31 spline trans slip. i had some success with it when i was experimenting with longer travel setups years ago...

modifying a ttb 44 to these ends would be ideal imo.


my ranger ttb 35 contraption was pushed forward a little over an inch. this was done for steering and drive shaft reasons along with full stuff with larger then 38 in tires.

for your goals i would tend to lean on building a complete custom k member that incorporated the needed pivot points and get away from the drop brackets entirely. total beef and clearance in one shot with unlimited engine choices as a benefit...


nice to see the ttb tech for sure though.

 

i will assume low traction mostly mud conditions and low hp is the reason for no issues.


still it is shocking.

Mostly rocks and jumping. The picture at the begining of the post is from Wolf Springs offroad park, which is mostly mud to get to any of the crawling trails. But im again holding your foot to the floor with a 2.9 isnt that powerful, but its plenty for what ive done. The doubler might destroy shit tho.

with v8 power i regularly fawked up the 35, in the end mostly the spiders as i stayed away from the lockers after constant axleshaft destruction with the quick lok... and just used brake bias..shafts in good shape were getting hard to find and destruction of the 31 spline 8.8 arb's pushed me to go with the one ton axles. i cant believe the 28 spline shaft 8.8 takes the abuse with 40's. with the truss, 31 spline customs and floater ends i can see it making it though.

Ive wondered how it holds up too, let alone the 1210 u joint driveshaft I was running in the ranger...

you can widen the track and go to a 50 style stub with the upgrade 35 carrier and run the 31 transmission spline slip from a big van or whatever with the 1350 joint for the center, and do the rcv on the outers. that can make for a beefy d 35 or any ttb axle.
here in the rustbelt the center slip is killable once wallered. rust sux...the stock shafts should work with the 31 spline trans slip. i had some success with it when i was experimenting with longer travel setups years ago...

modifying a ttb 44 to these ends would be ideal imo.

I may once i start having issues, but thus far im about 3 years with no issues. Rust attacks everything here as well, including road salt from winter.

my ranger ttb 35 contraption was pushed forward a little over an inch. this was done for steering and drive shaft reasons along with full stuff with larger then 38 in tires.

for your goals i would tend to lean on building a complete custom k member that incorporated the needed pivot points and get away from the drop brackets entirely. total beef and clearance in one shot with unlimited engine choices as a benefit...


nice to see the ttb tech for sure though.

I was stuffing 40s in the stock location, I was trying to stay away from the cut and turn of the beams, which if I did a K member would be needed. I may do this in the future, for now I just need a rig for this season haha.

I love ttb, everyone I know hates it. Theres 3 of us in the Jersey/Delaware area running it, VetteBoy, myself and Nooch450 (I dont know if hes on pirate but hes on dezert rangers) Those guys went over the top with RCVs, id rather keep my shafts as the weak point, not my R&P. After doing the modifications to the beams and joints its really not as weak as everyone says. The ball joints and wheel bearing and spacing of the bearings are to be desired however.. I would do the d44 outers swap if I didnt have the indestructible hubs.

 

MidKnight Fabrications Instagram ranger Jump

Heres a link to me messing around at wolf springs offroad park, I did it when no one was paying attention cause I was bored and it sored through the air flat, then everyone made me do it again and I hit the wall in a different spot and it bounced. But the TTB handles shit like that no problem. And again thats on 40s haha

 

Haven't been in the shop much, went on vacation and then I had to find time to do my taxes.

So far I got the other side mocked up and ready to mount the coilover on. Gonna build the cross braces and stuff so I can mount the resi's on too.

Im gonna get out there tomorrow and get the rear all finished up so I can start on the front axle.

 

Spend Saturday making sure the rear was setup correctly, ended up with a 7* in and 7* back angle on the coilovers. I cut some gas pipe up and make stilts to hold the axle in place so I can use my mock up coilovers up front.

Next we tore the old front end i still have laying around up and got the beams out from under it. We placed the beams in the pivots on the chassis. I soon realized that I need to trim ALOT up front for the stretch to work.

Im so happy at the height its sitting at at ride height, but wait.. Im not at ride height yet... I still have 6" to go till the rear touches the ground!
The door handle is gonna be at my belly button (6' tall) at ride height on 40s. Im so stoked.

 

Last time out was Big Dogs Fall Crawl. Planning on hitting Rausch Memorial day, then maybe Harlan again... If I feel like wheelin in between, I still have the stock Jeep I can go play with.
Been working on some problem areas this winter, chrome moly front shafts ( Broke two stocks last year ) replaced the POS B&M shifter, some winch wiring. Going to push myself next winter to link the front and move the radiator to the back and redo the front cage and sheet metal....Us old people need time to rest up before working that hard.

 

I was dying Sunday after doing 9am-12am on Saturday. My Body said :flipoff2:. Get a winter Shifter, Thats what ill be doing with my RMVB in the trans 1st to reverse like its nothing!

I just need to build my front hoops so I can get my Coilovers ordered and start building atleast one driveshaft to move this turd.

Im relocating my rad to the back and prob gonna build a plexiglass shield between the back seats and passenger compartment to prevent from any burns or anything.

 

Have you ran that tranny yet? What brand of valve body is it?

I've got a similar tranny c5 case c4 rmvb. With 2-3 shift flare I've been chasing for a couple yesrs. Interested if you have the sane issue.

 

When you say flare. What do you mean? Waiting for it to be done. They are searching for which torque converter I need. My buddies shop is taking care of it all.

 

I do not know if I should cut out the whole sub frame in the front and tube it and hang whatever fenders from tube or just notch it out and make whatever work. Any suggestions?

 

Has anyone ever ran a Dual caliper brake on the rear of a vehicle?

I want to go disc in the back, and Ive been told with a doubler sometimes a single brake wont hold back the drivetrain with an automatic. I could easily make some Dual caliper brackets, but would I need a proportioning valve between the axle and master still? Would I need something to boost pressure on the rear axle since id be running two calipers?

 

Dual calipers? Like 2 per wheel for a total of 4 across the back? Sounds like overkill.
Dana 44 knuckles on the 35 beams up front with matching 1/2 ton brakes all around would be more than plenty and be a strength increase up front

 

By installing the D44 Knuckles I would be obtaining a weaker Hub, similar size Axle shaft (not too much gain) and better ball joints and Bearing spacing. Truly I just dont want to change my lug pattern as I already have wheels haha.

I havent had any real issues with the D35 bearings loosening up or ball joint issues when jumping the last two years. I could always get wheel adapters for the back to match but that may be in the future.

 

Which warn hubs do you have? Do you have the ones that slide on the with aluminum housings?


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Warn 37780 Dana 35 Jeep Hub [WAR37780] - $215.95 : James Oaks Enterprises LLC, Off-Road Enthusiast Owned

I believe it is these.

 

Ok yeah those are the exact same ones I have. I haven't had any issues with them either. I was at parts Mike the other day and the manager tried telling me they're super week. But I don't know any one else running them to compare. Glad to hear you don't have any issues.

I'm not a fan of the way mine engage. They don't click in to engage the hubs, they only click to fully disengage. Do yours function that way as well?


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I just turn them left and right to engage/disengage Its noticeable that its engaged though.

These hubs are deemed "Indestructible" by many. Ive watched factory warn hubs shoot across trails before, these I can hold my foot to the floor without a worry, and I have 4.56 a locker and 40s haha