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Old 03-20-2017, 02:02 PM   #26 (permalink)
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It's gonna get bored and stroked.... most stroker kits im seeing is .030 over only. I'll see. looking around for a 543 or something stroker.
What's the power goal, and is forced induction or nitrous still on the table? There's a lot of .080" kits out there but if you're starting from scratch with machine work it's kind of a waste starting with a big bore imo. But, guys do it all the time, especially if you do all the machine work or can get it done super cheap.
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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It's gonna get bored and stroked.... most stroker kits im seeing is .030 over only. I'll see. looking around for a 543 or something stroker.
The '79 up truck blocks have longer cylinder bottoms, so they can support the piston with the long stroke cranks. May need to be notched for rod clearance.

The early blocks are good for 4.3" stroke (521), no clearance notch needed. Some may have issues with the 4.5" stroke and 6.7" rods pulling the piston too far out the bottom.

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Old 03-20-2017, 02:40 PM   #28 (permalink)
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The D9TE blocks are a dime a dozen. Lots of fuellie trucks around that noone really wants. Slap on carbed heads and away you go. The last three I acquired were free. The longer wall is better for support, and alot of the stroker kits are external balance.

The later style crank sticks out about a half inch further on the flywheel flange though, requiring a later bell or going ZF if you stay stick. Auto it makes no difference.

An early block you can use a 390 flywheel and a 351m/400 bell, which is convenient, but later availability is much better.


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Old 03-20-2017, 02:54 PM   #29 (permalink)
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What are you doing with steering? That will help dictate if coils are worth it.

Coils make steering options limitless. Hydro, or just drill the knuckles and some bullshit 3/4" heims... whatever. Sure you could mill the flat tops and do high steer... too much $$$. Plain old .250 dom and when the tie rod gets up against the diff cover i chain off to a tree and straighten it.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:05 PM   #30 (permalink)
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is it *really* worth getting the coil spring front end and converting to leaf spring, or being able to make life easy(er) with getting a leaf sprung SD axle?

Fawk, why not just convert the bastard to coil spring on the front end if I have the whole cut out
Honestly, the 05 and up axles have had less issues with ball joints and unit bearings. Plus with the ability to upgrade to 1550 joints and 40 spline so easy, the choice is easy imo. Fuck the leaf spring sd axles....I'd cut all the crap off and go leafs, if that's an absolute must. Going links isn't that hard though, coilovers are much more tunable than leafs.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:49 PM   #31 (permalink)
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What are you doing with steering? That will help dictate if coils are worth it.

Coils make steering options limitless. Hydro, or just drill the knuckles and some bullshit 3/4" heims... whatever. Sure you could mill the flat tops and do high steer... too much $$$. Plain old .250 dom and when the tie rod gets up against the diff cover i chain off to a tree and straighten it.


The bullshit 3/4" heims is the way I went. I run the drag link above the arms to let it clear the diff cover. I'm also using Deaver coils and Bilstein 7100s.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:23 PM   #32 (permalink)
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ok so I need to come up with a solid game plan.
For now, a $ figure too.

460 is gonna come together down the road. 390 is here to stay. 40 dollar water pump and some dicking with the carb to get the damn sludge out of it, and it'll probably run this week.



I found a complete rolling frame from an 07 F250.
Do I:
Steal axles from it, convert to leaf springs and put on the 76's frame.
pros: keep it easy.
cons: labor intensive to cut the axle up to make it leaf spring.

Steal axles and front coil sprung suspension and put on the 76's frame.
pros: coil sprung front end and radius arms would probably flex better, plus I could easily move the axle forward to get it out of the cab mounts.
cons: lots of work, i think. Unsure of the 76's frame to be able to support it correctly. thoughts on strength?


Take cab and put on the SD's frame, then transfer engine/trans/tcase to SD.
Pros: superior frame, and minimal suspension work
cons: LOTS of body mount fab, positioning and making it work on that frame and cab. Divorce mount tcase will have to be sorted out, trans and motor mounts too.


Now, if I was going to go that route- this wouldn't have been the truck to by, IMO. Its got some rot on the body, and if I was to go full ham I'd want a premo cab first and just transplant it on the new frame.

I'd just bought this SD rolling chassis, found a double cab dentside and built it on there if I knew about this and was building it specifically.
But im not
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:24 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I don't want to say it'd be impossible to mount leafs on an 05+ front, but it looks like a huge pita. If you do manage to pull it off they'll probably be 40 center to center.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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the super60 thread or whatever the fawk its called shows some doods doing it.

hack the link things off for the radius arms and weld in a bracket
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:53 PM   #36 (permalink)
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the super60 thread or whatever the fawk its called shows some doods doing it.

hack the link things off for the radius arms and weld in a bracket
I'll admit, I haven't read every page of that thread.

How far is there spring spacing? Seems like with 44s it would be tough to get the springs in far enough to clear the tires.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Steal axles and front coil sprung suspension and put on the 76's frame.
pros: coil sprung front end and radius arms would probably flex better, plus I could easily move the axle forward to get it out of the cab mounts.
cons: lots of work, i think. Unsure of the 76's frame to be able to support it correctly. thoughts on strength?
as far as the frame strength.. Im not sure on the word used off hand, but basically if you weld in pieces of metal to reinforce the frame, wouldnt that be cheap and easy to do? edit: boxing in the frame?

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Old 03-21-2017, 06:39 AM   #38 (permalink)
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The frame in the front is already boxed to about the firewall- past that its C channel and typical 70's floppy fish frame.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:31 AM   #39 (permalink)
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The 05+ axle coil and arm spacing needs narrowed 2-2.5" per side to bolt up to a 73-79 frame.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:46 AM   #40 (permalink)
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The 05+ axle coil and arm spacing needs narrowed 2-2.5" per side to bolt up to a 73-79 frame.


Thanks for that info. If I got it this way, Ill probably build some arms to reflect the difference on the frame out of maybe some 1 3/4 .120 DOM and use a big johnny joint for the ball.

Something like this, either split them and make the lower arm adjustable, or cut the front half off, and build off of them at an angle.

regardless, with 2-2 1/2" coming inwards they'll have to get pushed in then again to go parallel with the frame.

We'll see. This rolling frame I noticed is missing the rear leaf springs with the dark potato phone pic....

Wheres the leaf springs? "oh, I have more"....
Hmm....k....
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:21 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Couple links involving the swap.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/...ns-p-pump.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/...duty-tons.html
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:25 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Threw a water pump, thermostat, fixed the pipe in the intake to water pump, pulled the air compressor and cleaned up some issues in the engine bay. Drove it last night to the gas station, quarter car wash and she done gud.

Gonna change the oils in everything, brake flush, adjust the clutch and rear brakes, do a Texas State Inspection and cruise it around a little.

I know, sounds stupid- but I'm curbing the project, and will be selling it off.
Why? You'll see shortly. I have something that will still be here in the Ford section, and it is much more important, personally. This is something I've been wanting to do practically my entire life. Super stoked.

It's odd. I had to buy this truck in order for this other project to start. Sometimes things like this happen in life for a reason
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:35 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:22 AM   #44 (permalink)
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That means I gotta find a 4sitty. I'mma talk to my machinist first- see what he's got floating around.


Jon Kasse Boss 9 off a 460 block...
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:36 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:35 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Why? You'll see shortly. I have something that will still be here in the Ford section, and it is much more important, personally. This is something I've been wanting to do practically my entire life. Super stoked.

It's odd. I had to buy this truck in order for this other project to start. Sometimes things like this happen in life for a reason
Early Bronco?
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:44 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Early Bronco?
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:02 AM   #48 (permalink)
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SO FUCKING JEALOUS

They are unicorns up here. I need one bad
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Old Yesterday, 06:55 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Changed the Tcase, trans, front diff and engine oil. Nothing looks out of the ordinary.
popped the back axle and drum off to inspect the brakes. Whats this mean? I thought y'all said it was gonna have an 18 spline Dana 60? This is a 30 spline.
Really gave it hard look over. Needs some solid maintenance, parking brake cables, etc.etc. but its not *that* bad.
It's got a 360 according to VIN lol
in any case, I'm really at a cross roads on what to do. Right now, having this dent side and the toyota, I have two of the trucks from when I was in highskool and while I was farting around with both of them I was ... well... happy dicking around with them.

I cruised it around today. Ordered some parts. Ordered an add-a-leaf for the front springs to level it. Fixin' to order some Goodyear military 37's for it (I think) cause the 33's on there now are dry rotted. It's open front/rear so its not like it's going very far in the mud anyways.

The engine runs great! I'm gonna have to buy an oxy/acetylene torch setup to get the exhaust manifold bolts hot enough to let go so I can fix the exhaust leak. Other than that, I see no reason to mess with the engine in it's current state.


Patch panels and repair parts for the rust are stupid cheap shit, the corners of the cab are like 11 bucks lololol

I may give it to the local high school body shop and let them work on it or something.
I don't know. The more I work on it, the more I may keep it and park my piece of shit dodge lol


One thing I'm a little sketch on is the highboy push/pull power steering thingie and hydro assist ram. Is it worth a shit? I can see some bumpsteer in my future with a little lift on it. Another thing is mud/water/pushing on the hydraulic hoses coming from the frame down to the axle seems like they could get effed up pretty easy, no?

whiskey, laptop and a credit card are getting dangerous.
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Old Yesterday, 08:20 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Nah. Just soak the upper manifold bolts with PB blaster for like a week. Then, run the truck and remove them hot.
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