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Old 12-19-2004, 10:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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78 F250 4x4 headers

Well the 400 is in this weekend..problem is the headers that came with it are impossible to install... passenger side hits the frame and the engine pearch- and although after much fussing was able to get it close( still not on by a long shot).. there would never be any frame rail room and could never install the starter.

As they came with the engine I bought..I will assume they are for a 2wd... so now I need to buy some headers..

Anyone have any good ideas/have used anything that worked well/specific manuafturer and or part #'s for me? 400 in 78 F250 4x4 with C6 auto.

Let me know
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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fenderwell exit.

they're badass.

If I ever get another 78/79, thats the first setup i'm doin.

I used hooker brand. Loved them.

and as an added benefit, you'll never cook a starter do to the headers again.
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Old 12-19-2004, 12:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The fenderwells seem to be the way to go. You can also then run your entire exhaust outside the framerails which makes things much easier. That's what I'm looking to do with my bronco but I have an '84.

Slight hyjack, but does anyone know of fenderwell exits for a 80-86 Bronco with a 351W. I'd really like to run my exhaust outside the framerails and this seems the best way. Unless someone knows a better idea?

Thanks, Phil
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Old 12-19-2004, 04:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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IMHO I would stay inside the frame, run some heat protection for the starter, and keep the exhaust out of harms way. I have a '78 F150 400M/C6/NP205 with headers inside the frame rails and I've had more problem with vapor lock than anything else which I'm going to resolve if I keep the truck.

FWIW I have '47 WFlatty and I am going through great pains to keep the exhaust inside the frame.

EDIT: The headers where on there when I bought the truck, I think they are Heddman. If I keep the truck around I am going with Hookers not too expensive and have nothing but good experiences with them.

There are those out there that would argue for stock cast iron manifolds for numerous reasons: they fit, readily available, quieter, less head aches associated with them. HTH
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Old 12-19-2004, 07:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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L&L makes some headers for you. $$$ though. www.stansheaders.com is also a good guy. I ran his on my 428cj and they were topnotch. A recent thread in here mentions some good fenderwell headers. Think they may have been from bronco graveyard but might be wrong. You'll have to look.
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Old 12-19-2004, 07:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ya, I got the cheaper "no-name" fender exit headers from JBG. They are made by Mad Dog Headers. They fit good on my truck - '77 F-150 w/460. They come bare metal. I like that they don't come with cheap crappy paint you gotta get off. The L&L headers come ceramic coated, though.

Also - I put my headers in first, then dropped in the engine. It looks like it would be a HUGE pain in the ass to get fenderwell headers in with the engine already in. Pretty much all headers are a pain in the ass, though, in one way or another.
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Old 12-19-2004, 08:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BrokeCuzWheelin
Ya, I got the cheaper "no-name" fender exit headers from JBG. They are made by Mad Dog Headers. They fit good on my truck - '77 F-150 w/460. They come bare metal. I like that they don't come with cheap crappy paint you gotta get off. The L&L headers come ceramic coated, though.

Also - I put my headers in first, then dropped in the engine. It looks like it would be a HUGE pain in the ass to get fenderwell headers in with the engine already in. Pretty much all headers are a pain in the ass, though, in one way or another.
They're not, really.

I didn't care about my inner fenderwells though.. A bit of trimming and they dropped right in.. it was more difficult explaining to the parents why i had to fire it up on sunday night open headers..
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Old 12-19-2004, 10:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I wont run fender exits again. I had fender exits on my "77 lowboy. Yes, having all that room to work on stuff was cool. Having 4" less of ground clearance sucked, so did having the tires rub on the headers, that sucked too. My vote is stick with chassis exits.
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by masterbeavis
I wont run fender exits again. I had fender exits on my "77 lowboy. Yes, having all that room to work on stuff was cool. Having 4" less of ground clearance sucked, so did having the tires rub on the headers, that sucked too. My vote is stick with chassis exits.
Why did you have 4in less ground clearance?
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BrokeCuzWheelin
Why did you have 4in less ground clearance?
No kidding. Mine were inline with the frame. I was wondering that myself.

I was never over a 35" tire so I never had any rubbing issues.
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Well as the new tires ( yet to be mounted up) are 41's I need all the clearence I can get..plus with the 91 D60 front going in... I will be making frame backets to move the springs outboard the frame 2 1/2 inches each side.. this may interfere with the frame exit headers unless very tight up under the cab mount ( no lower then the bottom of the frame - or at least come out a good 4 inches from the frame rail)... anyone have any pics of ones installed?

Been considering either Flowtech or Dynomax headers... Dynomax makes a "short " supposedly and they are pretty cheap.. so I may give them a whirl.

Any more suggestions would be great too.
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Old 12-22-2004, 08:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have a '78 F250 with a 400 and 4-speed. In '97 I bought a set of the $79.50 Summit headers and installed them. Although tight, everything fit and the starter can still be removed and replaced. I did have to turn the bolts around in the passenger side engine mount tower if I remember right.
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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79 F150 Hooker Super Comp

When I got my 79F150 over ten years ago it had Hooker Super Comp's already on the 351M manual trans NP205. After swapping in the C-6 a 4" lift (still has the 3" body) I decided to buy a new pair (inside the frame). What a pain in the ass that was even with the body lift I had to loosen the fame in the motor and the body on the frame to get the passenger side to fit. After all that hassle the starter wouldn't fit I had one with a larger solenoid on the top. So going back to the smaller one I was able to fit it with a heat shield. But after the engine seized last winter I was barely able to pull it out and couldn't get it back in so off came the body. I need to figure something else out before it all goes back together next year. The original pair was not that tight I swapped the starter a half dozen times.
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Old 12-23-2004, 08:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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When i was young, i bought a new 77 F250. I put Hedman headers on it and the starter side came in 3 pieces so that you could get them in there.
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Old 12-26-2004, 11:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImNotRight
No kidding. Mine were inline with the frame. I was wondering that myself.

I was never over a 35" tire so I never had any rubbing issues.
The reason why I lost ground clearance is because I tucked the exhaust back into the frame rails. I cant remember what made me run the exaust that way, but running it back under the frame cost me about 4" of clearance using 3" pipe. Maybe next time I will just dump the exhaust right before the tires and gain that ground clearance back, but I still will have issues with tires rubbing on the headers during sharp turns.
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Old 12-27-2004, 08:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Pony up and buy the L&L's...........cheap bastids

No clearance issues AND they don't leak.......

Summit..........rofl
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Heh, my headers are the L&L's. I would love to find somebody to buy them from me so I can buy a set of chassis exit L&L's. I still had issues with my tires wanting to rub on them.....

(hint hint 460 L&L headers to fit 77-79 F250's)
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Old 12-29-2004, 11:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Yippy... got the Dynomax headers today. All I can say is that I am glad I still don't have the front clip in for install on these things. Made it so much easier. Driver side was a breeze... Pass side not so much . Hit the frame a bit at the base of the engine mount bottom support. After taking it out three times and beating it with a hammer and grinding at it ..it was about 85%.

Lifted to motor, bolted her up proper and dropped the motor back in9 not as easy as it sounds) ...
But now she rubs again( obviously more "clearencing" will be required)... Nice and thick tubes and flange...but dissapointed with the less the perfect fit ( so I've been told they are all like that)... also looks like I will have to flip my shackle bolts the other way as the collector will exit right into the shackle bolts for some reason. Not a big deal as I will be re-locating the springs outboard of the frame for my D60 front end swap anyways.

And so it goes on....
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