wristed radius question

[green meanie]

i am building a homemade radius set up for my ex on 404 mogs.

i was wondering if the trucks that have this,drive strange when not pinned?
does it wear out the radius bushing on the non wristed side bad?
thanks

[Broncoo]

just lotsa body roll when not pinned

iv'e got poly c-wedge bushings and have noticed no wear yet

just a q i have not seen any pics of your setup but where on the 404 are you mounting the radius arms? i'd be worrid about bending arms with all the leverage on them

[green meanie]

ya,i have a thread started on the mog board about that!i'm a little worried,but i have some real thick material to use,so i think it should be ok
any other idea's?
by the way,the template i made up today for the diff mount has about 10" of seperation bettween the upper radius mount and the lower.that seems like alot,and i think it should help.

[Danger Ranger]

made this out of 1.5" 0.25" wall with some 0.25" angle, bent that :dropkicknutz:


so i made this, 1.75" 0.375" wall with that big ol fawkin gusset bracket thing... bent that too


I'm about ready to give up on the radius arm and turn it into a three link. I just have a old/stock v6, 120:1 with 42's on a "trail rig" prob in the mid 4k range.

[NOTPRETTY]

Just curious...where did you bend the second one. Meaning where on the arm?

[Danger Ranger]

where it has to... in the middle at the end of the bracket.

[OX]

I replied to your other thread. I went 3 link. My lowers are 2", 1/4 wall. My upper is 1.5, 1/4 wall sleeved with 2", 1/4 wall. So far, so good and I've hammered her a bit. See pics here.

http://ox.users.superford.org//UNIMO...pers%20needed/

[WesternCO_EB]

Originally Posted by green meanie

i was wondering if the trucks that have this,drive strange when not pinned?
does it wear out the radius bushing on the non wristed side bad?
thanks

I don't see/feel much difference driving with the pin in or out. The big difference is when you hit the brakes hard with the pin out. You better be holding on to the wheel real tight or you will change several lanes or be off the road in a heartbeat.

I haven't seen any additional wear on any bushings on either side from before installing the wristed arm and with it.

[jopes]

Originally Posted by OX

I replied to your other thread. I went 3 link. My lowers are 2", 1/4 wall. My upper is 1.5, 1/4 wall sleeved with 2", 1/4 wall. So far, so good and I've hammered her a bit. See pics here.

http://ox.users.superford.org//UNIMO...pers%20needed/

OX how come your uppers are sleeved yet your lowers are not?

[green meanie]

ox,do you find with that single off centered top link that it does the pull also under braking?

[OX]

Originally Posted by jopes

OX how come your uppers are sleeved yet your lowers are not?

Uuuhh.........., it's a 3 link, only one upper.

[OX]

Originally Posted by green meanie

ox,do you find with that single off centered top link that it does the pull also under braking?

Doesn't seem to, but with 7.56's and 42's, I don't think I've been much faster than 40 MPH, tops.

[jopes]

Originally Posted by OX

Uuuhh.........., it's a 3 link, only one upper.

got it now. I missed that part.


So why not thicker lowers?

[dittohead]

As for the wristed radius arm, i have been running one for a couple years and i am over it. I have alot of brake dive and jacking during acceleration. I would just build a 3 or 4 link to get better handling. My GF drove it once, and the first corner she hit, she had it nearly in the ditch on its lid. Mine is a handful on the street, and since i dont have a trailer, i am going with a link type suspension when i put in the front 60. Btw, your buildup is looking sweet

[broncman]

I ran a wristed arm for about 3 years of hardcore beatings with 38's under an EB with a 44. Aside from not being able to get any brand of shaft to live , I spun the axle tube in the housing. Several people I know that ran D44 with wristed arm spun tubes as well after several years of hard use with big tires. The wristed side has NO torsional control and those big tires exert all that force to the tubes under hard breaking. This causes one side or the other (whichever gives first) to eventually spin. I trashed the wristed and went with a 4 link that uses the stock lower frame mount and bushing for the lower link and an inboard frame link for the top with a trac bar. Kept my rock crawler coils and it flex's better than the wristed and handling is now great.

[green meanie]

i am acually doing this to a mog diff in a 94 explorer,so the tubes ain't gonna spin!
but there is a ton of leverage,so that is probably not the best route to take.
but i am trying to keep it as low as possible with a stock mog diff,and it is proving tough!i think i sould be able to make the 4 parallel links with a panhard work.
does anyone have any good pics of how you mounted the upper inboarded links to the side of the frame?
and i think i will go ahead and find some stock frame lower brackets and use the radius arm bushings for the lowers like broncman.
i already got rid of the explorer brackets,so is there a better year than one another to look for?i would like to stick with the early bronco style bushings that have none of the plastic inserts like the ex one's had.

[OX]

Originally Posted by jopes

got it now. I missed that part.


So why not thicker lowers?

I figured the lowers are sharing the load. I thought of welding angle iron to the bottom, just for protection and in case I ever have the whole front end resting on on of those lowers. They are so high up though, I haven't hit them on anything really.

[OX]

Originally Posted by green meanie

i am acually doing this to a mog diff in a 94 explorer,so the tubes ain't gonna spin!
but there is a ton of leverage,so that is probably not the best route to take.
but i am trying to keep it as low as possible with a stock mog diff,and it is proving tough!i think i sould be able to make the 4 parallel links with a panhard work.
does anyone have any good pics of how you mounted the upper inboarded links to the side of the frame?
and i think i will go ahead and find some stock frame lower brackets and use the radius arm bushings for the lowers like broncman.
i already got rid of the explorer brackets,so is there a better year than one another to look for?i would like to stick with the early bronco style bushings that have none of the plastic inserts like the ex one's had.

I only have one upper, but here is mine. Bascially, just a small boxed section and a piece of 2", 1/4 wall sticking straight out, then supported in the back by 1/2 inch plate (can't really see that part).





To keep it low like you want, I had to go custom front housing to get the diff where ford put it. Also made a mini-truss around the diff and put forward end of upper as high as I could (since my lowers are so high due to stock steering). Carefull planning and it seats nicely between the frame and oil pan, but at full stuff, it does tag the motor mount perch, which I have since grinded out a bit. I am going to hog out the perch and reinforce it when I do a motor swap soon.

[green meanie]

thanks for the ideas!
are you links close to the stock radius arm length?

[OX]

Originally Posted by green meanie

thanks for the ideas!
are you links close to the stock radius arm length?

Yes, and it flexes so far, I ripped out a coil spring, had to put on limit straps.
Here's a posin pic.........

[green meanie]

what are you using for coils?

[welndmn]

Originally Posted by dittohead

As for the wristed radius arm, i have been running one for a couple years and i am over it. I have alot of brake dive and jacking during acceleration. I would just build a 3 or 4 link to get better handling. My GF drove it once, and the first corner she hit, she had it nearly in the ditch on its lid. Mine is a handful on the street, and since i dont have a trailer, i am going with a link type suspension when i put in the front 60. Btw, your buildup is looking sweet

Did you just leave it un pinned?

I ran one for many years, and love it, I too had heard of people spinning tubes with a wristed arm, but welding the tubes in fixes that.
For the money nothing will beat a wristed arm.

[OX]

Originally Posted by green meanie

what are you using for coils?

2" superlift (maybe 1.5" true lift). I was going to raise coil towers @ some point and go 4" spring, but it flexes enough to where driveshaft binds, so I don't think it is neceassry @ this point.