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Old 09-21-2005, 12:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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question for ford techs

just can't figure it out. a good friend of myn has an 04 explorer with a v6.we just did a 2.5 " mandrel cat back with 50 series flowmaster and the k&n intake .he drives like a grandma and is losing 3mpg.the whole purpose was to gain mpg.the truck has stock size tires and no lift.can anyone please tell me why this is. every othe r vehicle seems to gain. thanx
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Old 09-21-2005, 03:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i've always been told flowmasters will kill your milage.
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Old 09-21-2005, 04:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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longshot, but un hook the battery for 30 mins wih the headlight swith on to reset the computer, then run a tank so it can relearn, then the next tank you should see better miles

yes flowmasters aren't exactly the master of flow, but they flow better than factory muffler
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Old 09-21-2005, 10:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeviGarrett76
longshot, but un hook the battery for 30 mins wih the headlight swith on to reset the computer, then run a tank so it can relearn, then the next tank you should see better miles

yes flowmasters aren't exactly the master of flow, but they flow better than factory muffler
why the headlight switch on?
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ford factory mufflers are pretty free flowing
I bet they outflow a flowmaster
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'd try putting a low restriction muffler on it if the computer reset doesn't do it
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Old 09-22-2005, 09:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you run duals or a single? Dual pipes would be too much.
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Old 09-22-2005, 03:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GubNi
Did you run duals or a single? Dual pipes would be too much.
single
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Old 09-22-2005, 03:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Could you really feel the diff after installing all that stuff or not? Go with a magnaflow if you want a muffler that flows better. Also you could put a glass pack in somwhere in the sys. We had a flow bench at the shop I used to work at and we tested diff mufflers for shits and giggles when it was slow one day and the glass back actually created a suction not a restriction. Oh and next to the napa muffler my friend had on his rig the flowmaster flowed the worst and I believe it was a 40 series. So I stay away from flowmaster if possible.
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Old 09-22-2005, 04:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diefree
why the headlight switch on?
I'll take a stab at that one....

The ECM has capacitors which store electricity for a varying amount of time without battery power. The idea behind turning on the light switch is to make a draw in the electical system in order to discharge the capacitors. When it comes down to it, simply turning on the ignition with the battery disconnected does all the dirty work. This way, the ECM is attempting to switch on, dissapating all the stored power.

When you use this method it's really not neccessary to wait 30 min as the power in the ECM, thus the adaptive memory, is killed immediately.

If it were me, I'd kill the memory and then give it some time to relearn. OBDII ECMs are really sort of amazing with the capabilites they have.

Just in case you weren't aware, the proper way of letting the ECM learn initally goes like this:

1. Once memory is wiped, reconnect battery and start engine.
2. Let the engine idle (no A/C, no driver input) untill it comes completely up to operating temp. Usually about 15 minutes.
3. Once up to temp, turn on the A/C and let it idle for 5 more minutes. You're done.
If you wanna get tecnical there is also an inital "drive cycle" teqnique but I've never actually been able to tell the difference with or without.
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Old 09-23-2005, 07:54 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wetnsloppy4x
I'll take a stab at that one....

The ECM has capacitors which store electricity for a varying amount of time without battery power. The idea behind turning on the light switch is to make a draw in the electical system in order to discharge the capacitors. When it comes down to it, simply turning on the ignition with the battery disconnected does all the dirty work. This way, the ECM is attempting to switch on, dissapating all the stored power.

When you use this method it's really not neccessary to wait 30 min as the power in the ECM, thus the adaptive memory, is killed immediately.

If it were me, I'd kill the memory and then give it some time to relearn. OBDII ECMs are really sort of amazing with the capabilites they have.

Just in case you weren't aware, the proper way of letting the ECM learn initally goes like this:

1. Once memory is wiped, reconnect battery and start engine.
2. Let the engine idle (no A/C, no driver input) untill it comes completely up to operating temp. Usually about 15 minutes.
3. Once up to temp, turn on the A/C and let it idle for 5 more minutes. You're done.
If you wanna get tecnical there is also an inital "drive cycle" teqnique but I've never actually been able to tell the difference with or without.
great info,thanx gonna give it a shot and see what happens.
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