Halogrinders Cheap Truck Challenge

[Halogrinder]

well as the name says....i have a mid project to do quick and cheap.
i picked up a 1978 ford f150, that needs a ton of work for 500 bucks.
long bed, dual tanks, 44 front 9 inch rear, 351 modified, sm435 and np 205. sweet! it runs and kinda drives.

plan: have a reliable vehicle to drive when it rains, tow when i need it to, and wheel the piss out of
budget: 3000.00 is the goal. anything that can be repaired or reused, will be. no bling, just function.
so without further BS lets get started. no pics yet, its at the shop but here a run down of whats goin on.

Truck 500 bucks.
things i bought today.
front brake lines left 17.00
front brake line right 14.00
belts 7.50
front wheel seals 8.00
broken wheel stud and nut 2.00
power steering hose, pressure 14.00
return line for power steering hose 7.00
1983 monte carlo brake lines for rear discs that are going on it 25.00
spindle socket 18.00
gear oil 14.00
oil filter 4.00
pcv valve 2.50
engine oil 11.00
master cylinder 15.00
94 geo tracker 4x4 rotors for rear disc brake conversion 24.00 ** EDIT** these didnt work. i used mid 90s bronco rotors off the front, TTB 4x4
banjo bolts for disc conversion 5.00
brake pads 10.00
1995 s10 calipers for disc conversion 45.00 (w/core charge)
valve cover gaskets 11.00
disc brake brackets from a&a 17.00 w/ brake clip and holder
total 271
2729 remaining
pics coming soon.
*rear brakes are trashed. going to convert to disc brakes with above mentioned parts.
*rear leaf springs are broken, going to convert to coils w/ stock radius arms out back. *** edit*** prolly do this down the line, at the moment, replace the trashed leaf springs and move the axle up.
*bob and dovetail rear bed that is absoulutley trashed. im only going to use the bedsides and tailgate
*repair left corner of cab.
*strip interior and bedline *edit* done.
* possibly dovetail the front end
*reseal and repair rear nine inch. UNGODLY amount of play in backlash, and the pinion is loose. pull out third member, reseal, and lock rear end.
*reaseal and repair dana 44. replace steering ujoints and reaseal diff. lock front end. *edit* got a mini spool, the next time i need to take off the diff cover, or do front end work, ill install it.....unless i get antsy for traction and throw it in.

i need some leaf springs....any suggestions on what to use?

[braxton357]

Sounds like a plan. Pics? Just swap in a 351w instead, throw the bed away...bob the frame...add tube bed/cage. Then forget about using a radius arm rear suspension...ESPECIALLY using stock arms. Extend the front arms and use your left over money and build a four link in the rear.

And sucks for you..selling one piece of shit just to buy another..

[NetBSD]

i have a set of radius arms off a 78 f150 sitting here along with the 44 the guy never picked up, you want the arms we can arange something. pm me

[TheRipper]

I have a set up here in DFW you could have but a long drive for a small part.. ..I do have a friend headed to Austin this weekend if you have anyone there.

[Davethorik]

Originally Posted by Halogrinder

sm465 and np 205

how'd ya do that?

[Halogrinder]

well the reason for the rear radius arm idea, is that the rear leaf springs are broken. i figgure buy those weld on "c"'s from Duff, and throw the radius arms on in the back, take the stock front coils and stuff em in the back. im going to buy the radius arm extensions from bent and twisted, unless you have a better idea.


and why would i replace a perfectly good engine braxton? are you on crack? dont answer that....lol


now with the steering, the draglink goes to the tie rod. can i buy a chevy dana 44 knuckle and convert the draglink to hi steer for less bumpsteer?

also, im looking for a set of coils, i think im going to use wild horses. i would rather hack the fenders than lift it, but i need to pick it up somewhat... like a 2-4 inch coil for the front. also i heard i can use f250 shock mounts, kinda like i have seen cruiser guys do right?

[BUZZISCRAZY2]

You could just cut-n-drop the buckets......good for a couple inches.

Keep the 400-m.

[Halogrinder]

yea i could, but i want to replace the coils for a better ride and more flex for the front end. seriously the front end is WASTED

[Apogee]

Originally Posted by Davethorik

how'd ya do that?

X2...Me thinks it's an NP435.

[Halogrinder]

eh whatever....lol im not too knowlagable in the old ford department....

[Gummi Bear]

Stock Ford radius arms in the back suck ass. Save your peso's and time, and do it right the first time. 3 or 4 link it instead. The c bushings don't take the torque well, and it'll handle like shit.

[FbOmRxD]

wow seems like a cool project man i'll be looking forward to the pics and updates.

[Halogrinder]

really? radius arms in the rear suck? any posts or proof? im just looking at the simplicity and ease of parts

[blown4x4]

I have the same deal as you going on right know kinda. I have a 76 f150. It has a 390, np435/205, d44, and 9". I have rebuilt the entire front axle, new ball joints, wheel bearings, "c" bushing and sway bar bushings with energy suspension stuff, etc, etc. New shocks and 4 inch coil springs. I have a d44 locker kicking around, and have a spool for a 9". I'm into in $1500 with the cost of the vehicle.

You may want to check the gen4x4 thread for the interco blems thread save some cash on your tires.

[Halogrinder]

been there, done that, ordered them and boo told me they were sold. ALL 15 inchers are gone....ill have to wait

[blown4x4]

I have always had 8 lug axles so I may ask a stuiped question. How much does a set of 5 lug 16" wheels cost? For example 16x8s to 10ish

[Halogrinder]

prolly 45 bucks for cheapies and up new...


onward with my quest for parts

steering ujoints 30.00 (used my gift card, so technicly free)
fuel filter 2.50
wheel seals for rear axle 18.00 ** edit** returned, see next page
help! rag joint fixer upper thingie 8.00 (more gift card action, free!)
rear brake line rubber hose 14.00
more brake pins 12.00
rear driveshaft ujoints 40.00 **edit** returned, see next page

2642.50 remaining
pics to come on saterday when i get to wrenchin on it

[Gummi Bear]

Originally Posted by Halogrinder

really? radius arms in the rear suck? any posts or proof? im just looking at the simplicity and ease of parts

Experience mostly. The bushings can't take the beating, and you'll tear the hell out of your panhard/3rd link.

That being said, for every persons negative experience, somebody knows a guy, who once met a guy who was running it and it kicked ass. Take it with a grain of salt. You're welcome to do a search, and form your own opinion. I don't think it's a very good system for the time and money invested.

[Halogrinder]

whaddabout using a third link to control axlewrap? use the radius arms to locate and control the rear axle, panhard to keep it under the truck, and a simple traction arm to keep the diff from rotating?

[TheRipper]

1 link the rear and be done with it.Put some coils in the rear and some cheap ass pro comp shock's.And then go tractor supply and buy to of them ends that are rectangular shape and slide them in some rectangle tubing weld them together and there is the panhard bar.Ohh yeah weld the 1 link solid to the axle housing and there will be no axle wrap.

[Halogrinder]

yea, i was thinking graderball action, but the simplicity of using the stock arms with the stock mounting brackets are appealing. i wouldnt have to to that much fab to the frame/crossmember to support the rear end. ill i would have to do is box the frame where the radius arms attach.....eh, i dunno we'll see what happens.

[JJS]

does anyone have any thoughts on setting up stock radius arms with johnny joints at the frame end in the rear?

[TheRipper]

Originally Posted by JJS

does anyone have any thoughts on setting up stock radius arms with johnny joints at the frame end in the rear?

That would be a waste of time I feel like.If you were going to do that just build a ladder bar with a big heim attaching to the frame and your joints at the axle.

[78bronco460]

I've looked at doing this, but the coils would need to go inside the frame rails if you are trying to keep the frame intact. SInce the frame is wider at the rear, there's not enough room to have the springs outside the frame without hitting the tires.
If they are moved to the inside of the frame, then the R/A's and bushing brackets would be closer together toward the frame mounting points so a crossmember would be needed. The trick would be to build it without those brackets being a pair of nasty rock-hangers.
Be sure to post up some pics if you find a way to get that to work.
Good luck.

[XJ618]

Sounds like a sweet build, get soem pics going... What size tires are you thinking?