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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37510
Posts: 101
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bronco II fuel tank in ranger?
im planning on running a 3 link on my ranger, and i was thinking that as a more wallet friendly and time friendly option to a fuel cell would be to run a tank from a bronco II. I was basically wondering if this will swap in with a few extensions of some lines and wires. but without anything too major(needing new fuel pumps/plumbing of everything).
has anyone swapped one of these in before? by the way its going into a 94 ranger with the 2.3. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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IDIot
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the B2 tank is huge...im ditching mine soon for a fuel cell cuz it gets in the way of my rear shocks and drags alot...unless you were to fit it into the bed...i imagine you can make it fit with modifications.
__________________
Rats get fat, while brave men die. Spare parts? If you're shooting your weapon to failure, it means you're really good to have stayed alive through that much combat. You're not fucked, You're just down a weapon, go get another off of one of the many dead bodies you created |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I've been looking for a solution to the Ranger tank for awhile as well. Mine's a 94 and I've cut a driveshaft due to interference. I was thinking of putting one where the stock spare tire was at, dunno if that was your intentions as well. The rear frame rails on a Ranger are fairly narrow, can't fit a 31" spare between em. I have yet to find any tank, besides fuel cells, that would work without frame modifications/notching.
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[QUOTE=papee]This game IS real life for us web wheelers.:flipoff2: [/QUOTE] |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37510
Posts: 101
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it will be behind the axle and it will be mouted inside/above the frame rails. the rear bed will be caged, with no bed, so im not worried about it being in the way of anything. plus, the shocks will be run off the trailing arms(putting them right behind the cab). i just wanted to see if the actual pumps and everything would mate up.
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#5 (permalink) |
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winch operator
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move the shocks to the front of the axle, and beef the b2 skid plate or make a killer custom unit..
i need to do it to my ranger too cause i am sick of sagging my drivers side springs within a few months of fresh spring installs cause my tank is kept full and my fat ass is on that side too. after watching danger ranger pound the fawk out of his setup i have no fears of it anymore. i am surprised you didnt just raise yours badb2. i like the idea of having a tank big enough i dont have to stop for gas three times on the way to kentucky from detroit.
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if only 88 ranger ext cab pos hackjob powered by a 6.5 diesel clattering against a 4l80 thats punishing a f208 that is turning ford 60's rolling on 33-44 in tires depending on the mission at hand how ya like me now??
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#6 (permalink) |
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IDIot
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raising it w ouldnt of done what i wanted. i wanted to put both of my shocks facing back...because they go through my floor.
__________________
Rats get fat, while brave men die. Spare parts? If you're shooting your weapon to failure, it means you're really good to have stayed alive through that much combat. You're not fucked, You're just down a weapon, go get another off of one of the many dead bodies you created |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 10063
Location: So.Calif (San Fernando Valley)
Posts: 1,761
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You might try looking around (or posting) on www.therangerstation.com . Pretty sure this has been done before by at least a couple people.
As I understood it, you need to swap in the two rear frame crossmembers from the BII, and the tank will then nearly bolt right in (outside of plumbing/wiring stuff). Frame width is very close to (if not) the same. The 23 gallon capacity of a BII tank is nice, I agree.
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'90 Bronco II, 2.9L, Dual T-case, 5.13s, 35x12.50s [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/702959[/url] Last edited by 4x4junkie; 12-30-2005 at 05:11 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18614
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 4,246
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Mounted one in my friends 89 ranger between the rails in ft of the axle directly behind the cab. I made a strap mount and x-member for it with a removable skid under it in case DS breaks loose. Used the stock pump and level sender. The sender is close but not perfect. Is a trail rig though and better than guessing. It can be done though.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
__________________
[QUOTE=papee]This game IS real life for us web wheelers.:flipoff2: [/QUOTE] |
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#11 (permalink) |
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IDIot
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if you go to TRS..make sure you tell them you have D35. they hate us SAS people..right Junkie
__________________
Rats get fat, while brave men die. Spare parts? If you're shooting your weapon to failure, it means you're really good to have stayed alive through that much combat. You're not fucked, You're just down a weapon, go get another off of one of the many dead bodies you created |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Well, when TRS finally worked for me, I got some good info. May be a suprize to some of you, I know. Anyway, I also learned about the dual tank Rangers. They used a smaller version of the BII tank as an aux. tank. But since TRS is down, AGAIN!!!, I can't get any more info. Would anyone happen to know how many gallons this aux. tank is? And also if it has an opening for a normal sending unit. I'm oblivious to the workings of dual tanks.
__________________
[QUOTE=papee]This game IS real life for us web wheelers.:flipoff2: [/QUOTE] |
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#13 (permalink) |
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winch operator
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try going to the site 4 or 5 times in a row. its not down it just dont come up on the first hit for some reason.
the aux tank is 12 or 13 gal if i remember right. i have had two truck like that. you can put in whatever type of front support you want to hang straps from.
__________________
if only 88 ranger ext cab pos hackjob powered by a 6.5 diesel clattering against a 4l80 thats punishing a f208 that is turning ford 60's rolling on 33-44 in tires depending on the mission at hand how ya like me now??
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Oh, ok, thought it may have been something strange like that. I found on there different accounts, some say 13, some 14 gallon. I could live with that as opposed to bed mods with the B2 tank. Only thing I still don't know is, can you get new aux tanks? Checked with Advanced auto and they were useless. Maybe they carry it, but the counter guy couldn't find it.
__________________
[QUOTE=papee]This game IS real life for us web wheelers.:flipoff2: [/QUOTE] |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18614
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 4,246
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Yes Aux. tanks are still available. Look aorund for a place that sells fuel tanks local. We have a a local truck JY here that supplies my work with new fuel tanks.
Last edited by 94toytruck; 12-31-2005 at 04:59 PM. |
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#16 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 10063
Location: So.Calif (San Fernando Valley)
Posts: 1,761
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() How that's relevant to swapping a gas tank, I'm not sure though...
__________________
'90 Bronco II, 2.9L, Dual T-case, 5.13s, 35x12.50s [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/702959[/url] |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57148
Posts: 20
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Quote:
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
__________________
[QUOTE=papee]This game IS real life for us web wheelers.:flipoff2: [/QUOTE] |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 54567
Location: Eureka, CA
Posts: 305
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I did this swap on my 87 long bed. I moved the driverside shock to forward position to clear the tank. The only reason I had to do this was because my bed was bobbed 13" and my frame 11". All the way to the back of the shackle hanger. I also was able to retain my stock fuel tank crossmembers by just relocating the front one to the underside of the top frame rail and moving the rear forward. This also raises the tank 5" or so making it just about the same height as the stock tank. You will have to cut a hole in your bed to clear the top of the tank. It will only stick out an 1" or 2". I had a piece of diamond plate formed to cover it and bolt in. This makes it really easy to acess your sending unit by not having to drop the tank. As far as the fuel lines and electrical connections I was able to use my stock stuff because I already had the stock one behind the axle. If you dont, it shouldnt be to hard to make it work, just extending the stock stuff, nothing to hard.
I aquired a rust free fuel tank from a wrecking yard here in CA for $35 pus $15 shipping and it came complete with a sending unit. Take a look at car-part.com, thats where I found the great deal on mine. In the end it turned out great for not much coin. |
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