Need Ford/D60 Tie rod part #'s and or Chevy equivalent and sources for cheapest taps

[mofoco1]

I want to TRO my 95-350 Centurion(4 door Bronco). I want to eventually do cross over but for now I need some part #'s for the tie rods ends. Passenger side needs to also have provision for a drag link, I want both the tre's to be thread in and a right and left handed threading so I can align without removing from the knuckle. I am not a fan of the long side and short side thing. They obviously need to be 1 ton. Here a few ?'s
1. I like how some of the Chevy ends are very stout and use a thicker shank than some of the Fords. They come in a L and a R handed. I have been told though that the taper on Ford d60 applications is different even than that of the Chevy D60. Can any put a definate as to if they are different and by how much? If they are the same I will go with the Chevys.
2. What is the pitch and size of most 1 ton tre shanks, are they 1" ?
3. What is the cheapest source for taps to thread the No Stress I will be using?
4. Is anyone producing any tapered d60 insert to place on the bottom of the knuckle to take the slack once you have reamed the top of the knuckle to accept the TRO?
5. Since I have a Ball Joint Hi pin D60, what's the options and manufactors if I want a cross over arm. Of those who has the beefiest Arm and does the knuckle need any extra machining?

Thank Mo in CA

[welndmn]

1) 1.250 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with 0.812" ID or smaller will work and you can also go to a larger OD for additional strength. It is not receommended to go beyond 1.50" OD though.

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional and only works with 1.25" OD tubes)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 39" for stock early Bronco knuckles (41" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25.25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNS special left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/g...ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices (1/26/04):
ES2233L $21.99 pass side tie rod (~7" exposed)
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod (~2.5" exposed)
ES2027L $23.99 high angle drag link end (~4.5" exposed)
ES2026R $19.99 high angledrag link end (~6.5" exposed)

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand). They are about $7 each.

[Lars915]

Nice compilation, thanks for posting that up. Easy to cut and paste into my data spreadsheet

[plug ugly]

mark, is that the same piece of paper we had floating around a few years ago????

[welndmn]

same one thats been around for like 5 years

[mofoco1]

I read the list, couple of ?'s on the reply.
1) You mention EB on the width of axles as pertaining to tie rod lengths.
I have a Fullsized Dana RC Dana 60 in front those measurements do
no help my situation.
2) Are the tie rod end #'s you gave for early , bronco, F100,F150 knuckles
or designed as replacements for D60 ends? I am running 40's and 1/2t
will not do.
3) I screwed up in that I said I eventually wanted TRO. I don't care
presently if it is under the knuckle. I will want it to be high steer as
well as TRO in the future. I am going to Pismo in a week and need the
tie rod machined though so a quick reply would be helpful.
4) Ultimately I need confirmation of what's the skinny on one ton ends and
their corresponding part #'s....Thanks to the list again

[animator]

Why not drill the holes straight and run heims in place of TREs?

[mofoco1]

If this was a strictly a trail rig I wouldn't even think of doing it otherwise. Since this is a daily driver and the family truckster, in my experience the TRE's stay tighter longer. With the taper they lock into the knuckle better, as there is always the possiblity of egging the knuckle as the bolt has to have enough clearance to go thru, even as minute as it is. BC Broncos carries a Chromoly D44 tapered stud that is tapered on one end and fits into the knuckle like a TRE but is longer and has a machined area that allows you to use a heim instead. I Called and they do not make one for the d60 though. Wish I knew the Co. that made them up. If it was $$ feasable I would have them cut up some studs for the d60 knucles. If anyone here knows where I can get some chromoly lathed and treated cheaply to make some of these up at a cost close to premium TRE's I would be thankful if you pass that info along to me and the rest of the list......TIA.....Mo in CA

[mofoco1]

Btt

[welndmn]

It says EB because that article was written for an EB, the EB related parts are the measurments
The part numbers are for the GM TRE's

[mofoco1]

BTTT. I know, I have a 69 and a 75 EB. That is why I restated the ? as I needed the info for a d60 not for a d30 or d44. Still need those numbers, unless what I am being told is that these will also work on D60 Knuckles?...Mo

[Dusty]

I'm putting a Ford HP60 with Chevy 60 knuckles in my EB. I took the knuckles up to Chuck at BC Broncos on Saturday to ream them for TRO. I discovered that the previous owner of these knuckles had used some sort of cheapie insert to convert the tapered hole into straight, apparently for use with a bolt or straight heim stud. The inserts were pretty worn out though, along with some significant egging of the parent metal of the knudkle. This to me is a good example that straight-shanked hardware like bolts and straight heim studs are a no-no in this application. Like you I would stick with real Tie Rod Ends or heims with tapered studs. Chuck sells tapered heim studs for this application. So I pounded out the dicked up straight inserts and used Chuck's reamer to clean the holes up, reverse the taper and open them up to accept his tie-rod-over tapered inserts. With these inserts you ream away enough of the parent metal that the original tie-rod-under taper is gone and there is full metal contact with the taper in the other direction. His heim studs have a taper on one end and a threaded stud on the other to slip the heim ball over. Its a pretty nice setup for heim joint steering. Chuck's Tie-Rod-Over tapered inserts will work with Tie Rod Ends also, if you choose to use them instead of heims. He also sells the reams if you need one. www.bcbroncos.com

Sorry for pimping a vendor who dosen't have a yellow star here, but he might have some of the stuff you need. sorry I can't help with any of the numbers you're looking for. My stuff is a mutt and I haven't taken any measurements yet anyhow.

Dusty

[mofoco1]

Dusty S that you? Not talked to you in a while. Listen I bought the tapered studs from chuck, but it looks way to small for the what I am planning to use as a heim, if I don't use a stock one ton TRE's. The heims I plan to use are 7/8th's and Chuck said he didn't think that they would make them in that size. I would love to go that route though. If anyone knows of a machine shop that will lathe 1.125" round cromoly stock and cut me up some studs that taper to allow them to be installed into the stock knuckle, and then has an area above( or below depend if you are KO or KU) and has a straight area where the heim race resides and then a threaded area above for the lock nut, and can do it CHEAPPPPPPPPP! Let me know, they may even want to start making them for the one ton. Dusty email me and I will send you a pic of what I am working on.....Mo in Clovis