Ford 205 on a new style trans adapter...

[Wicked_S10]

I read on here that you can notch the newer style BW trans tailshaft houseing for the shift rail and put a ford 205 on it. I redrilled my 205 today to clock it, notched the tail houseing in the right place for it and went to install the 205 and it will not go all of the way into the adapter. I haven't tried to pull it together with the bolts, because I really dont want to crack the tail houseing, but my question is, is the bore in the newer style tailhouseing a little smaller than on the old cast iron ones, or is it just going to be a really tight fit? Shoule I just pull it together and see what happens, or try to take some metal out of the inside with the die grinder? TIA.

Later,
Jason

[masterbeavis]

break out the tape measure and measure. If it checks out, but still doesnt fit, do step one again, break out the tape measure and measure. Find out what is not allowing it to suck up. My initial guess is the output shaft of the trans is too long, or the bearing retainer is hitting the I.D. of the trans tail housing.

[Wicked_S10]

Thanks for that little bit of common sense That was my plan, and am on my way out to check things out this morning. I had just hopped that someone on here would know from experience. After all, there are several people that pipe up about this working everytime someone posts up asking what T-cases he can put behind a AOD or E4OD... Thanks anyhow, I will report back what I find out.

Later,
Jason

[Wicked_S10]

Well, I found the interference point. It was the cap screws that hld the 205's bearing retainer plate on. I took it apart, measured the bore and the shaft depth with calipers, it all apeared that it should mate fine, so I put it back together, start tightening it and boom, I broke the fucking tailhouseing. I never even considered the depth of the bore in the tailhouseing. So, I am putting a new adapter on and countersinking the bearing retainer bolts...

Later,
Jason

[Jason Lister]

I've gotta do the same thing. Please post or send me pics of what you had to do when you get a chance... Thanks

Jason
slprlx@yahoo.com

[Wicked_S10]

Originally Posted by Jason Lister

I've gotta do the same thing. Please post or send me pics of what you had to do when you get a chance... Thanks

Jason
slprlx@yahoo.com

Shit, I am sorry dude, I put it all back together already and I didnt take any pictures. It was pretty easy though, I just went to the local hardware and bought 4 allen head countersunk 5/16 nc bolts, and a 5/8ths inch 82* single cutting countersink and cut countersinks into the front bearing retainer deap enough for the heads of the new bolts. Then I just touched the head of each of the countersunk bolts with an angle grinder to get them to match up closely with the bearing retainer O.D., bolted it back together and it was good. If you are asking about clocking it, that was a PIA, basically I had to take the whole tcase apart so that the case would fit and lie flat in my mill, then I drilled the new holes in the case with the mill and tapped them by hand. I wouldn't recomend drilling the holes by hand as you have to get them perfectly square so it will bolt up again... I just traced a gasket that I custom cut for the new clocking for the ferd 205 on the tailhouseing to figure oout where to nothc the houseing. PM me if you need more info...

Later,
Jason

[Jason Lister]

thanks for the help. I assumed that is how you did it, but you know, a pic is worth a thousand words!

[TheRipper]

Here i pic I had one outside my buddy notched for his.If you get a adapter for the 205 to a c6 it will fit the newer style case and the 205 where if you just have the newer one you haft to do this to it.

[Wicked_S10]

Ripper, what are the two egged out bolt holes for? Mistake, or did he intend to do this? My tcase bolt pattern lined up fine before I redrilled to clock it, just currious, did he egg them out and then pull the locating pin and just use the next set of holes around? I thought about doing this, but I didnt really want to egg the holes out and I also couldnt get it to clock far enough that way, and the next set of holes around was way to far...

Later,
Jason

[leadmic]

So what are you putting the 205 behind? If it a E4OD what are you going to do about the front drive shaft hitting the trans? The 205 will bolt up behind a E4OD but I dont think you can clock it and get the front drive shft to not to hit the trans some where (not enough off set). You might be able to make it work with a doubler but many have tried to make it work without and Ive never seen anyone do it yet. If you do let the rest of us know what you did.
Leadmic

[leadmic]

So what are you putting the 205 behind? If it a E4OD what are you going to do about the front drive shaft hitting the trans? The 205 will bolt up behind a E4OD but I dont think you can clock it and get the front drive shft to not to hit the trans some where (not enough off set). You might be able to make it work with a doubler but many have tried to make it work without and Ive never seen anyone do it yet. If you do let the rest of us know what you did.
Leadmic

[Wicked_S10]

The 205 is behind a late modle C6 (1989). The trans had a BW1356 behind it. The D.S. will be tight with the case clocked, but I am running a pillowblock in the front, so it wont be a problem.

Later,
Jason

[leadmic]

The C6 is easy they came that way from Ford. I woud find a cast iron adapter though thats the way Ford did it. The cast iron 205 weighs alot more than a 1356.
Leadmic

[TheRipper]

I just called him and ask.The guy goes by TheGlassman on here that did the work for his.He said he did it to flip his 205 to the chevy side.I had a 205 adapter plate that I used with mine instead.I am giving that one back to him.I am running the BW 1356 with my set up since the gears are lower than the 205 and it put's my driveline a little farther from my tranny.