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Old 10-20-2006, 08:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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how to get max flex on TTB

i have a 1985 ranger and i changed my fron diff. from a danna 28 to a danna 35 from a 1994 ford explorer. i have a locker in the front and a spoul in the rear and 456 gears, im tring to get the most flex but i need some ideas.
i read a little and i found out that i can put jeep coils in the front has any one tried any other thing ? any ideas will help pics?
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Itís not an easy task, doable, but not easy. The locker you have will probably be your best friend. The one downfall with TTB is you donít get the opposing force on the dropping tire when you have an upward force on the other side. You can get up to 15-17Ē of wheel travel before the stock steering geometry is maxed, even at that it is maxed.

A few things to consider.

Longer Radius arms, do not just get radius arm drop bracket.
The longest shock you can fit (James duff Makes hoops, you can use an F250 mount, or fab your own)
Soft Springs (hence the jeep coil) of the proper length seem to help a lot.

Check out therangerstation.com as stated, theyíve got some tech there. Find out what your current limiting factor is and work from there,

Hereís a couple pics of my current set up, not amazing, but it gets me around, and Iím locked up front as well.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...r/P3240001.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...r/P3210009.jpg
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Old 10-21-2006, 06:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The best way to get flex out of a TTB is to rip it out and swap in a solid axle. I tried getting my BII to flex after I installed a D35, too. When I got my Xploder to build, I tried again with the TTB before I just gave up and swapped in the HP44. Not only does it flex better, it's a ton stronger. Sorry to tell you, there's just no way to get a TTB to flex like a solid axle.
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Old 10-21-2006, 07:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 10-21-2006, 08:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, no flex here either



TRS has the info you're after.
Too many solid-axle-lovers here that can't be bothered answering questions about TTB junk




PS, its easier than you think, the biggest thing though is figuring out what spring rate you need and doing the math to get the right height coilsprings. Also, as swiss mentioned, the stock steering sucks, you may want to swap that out for something that uses a centerlink.
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Im going FW 44 and sterling 10.25 this winter..its not flex Im after..its survivablity and STABILITY...ttb's are unstable with the steering/flex setup in the front..but heres what you need to do for more flex..

Longer arms OR short arms with HEIM joints on them at stock length..(or both)

I used stock coils..but my DD had EB coils in it and rode ALOT softer with stock arms..

longer/relocated shocks..

thats it...the longer the arms the more "flex" you will get out of that setup.mt explorer has 14in with the skycrapper 2 arms..the rear has an extra main leaf with the eyes cut off and 1 secondary and the overload..18in of travel on the back..

now with that being said...I REINSTALLED my swaybars front and back after several instances of severe body roll..its alot more stable now..and I still get close to that flex in the back..about 10in in the front..and it "feels" better...

it is possible to make a TTB35 flex like a solid axle...remove the center pivot brackets...weld the left and right beams together with steel plate..and make a panhard bar...flexes like a solid axle..


your front locker will end up causing you problems..my aussielocker works awsome..and has broken 3 driverside shafts...2 of them within an hour of installing them...for the ttb you really need a L/S up front to take the stress off the joints...the stock joints just dont survive anything over 33's and trail abuse..


and the d44 isnt ALL that much stronger that the ttb35 when talking about U-joints...but the 44 has a better aftermarket availability..
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Old 10-24-2006, 06:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Best thing you can do is WELD the joints in the shafts on the D35. I ran a
2.9L /Auto in a standard cab ranger with a D35 welded and 35x15.5x15 SX's on steel beadlock wheels for 2yrs and only broke one shaft and a driveshaft. All depends on how stupid you get with the skinny pedal...
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Old 10-24-2006, 06:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt8888
Best thing you can do is WELD the joints in the shafts on the D35. I ran a
2.9L /Auto in a standard cab ranger with a D35 welded and 35x15.5x15 SX's on steel beadlock wheels for 2yrs and only broke one shaft and a driveshaft. All depends on how stupid you get with the skinny pedal...

That makes it kinda interesting getting shafts in and outta the knuckle.. but its nice when your u joints dont pop outta the shafts.
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Old 10-24-2006, 06:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If you do it right its not a problem......
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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jeep coils


but i'm still not sure i'd describe it as "mad flex"
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt8888
If you do it right its not a problem......
how bout some more info on doin it right?
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sceep had the best answer.
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Old 10-24-2006, 09:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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jeep cherokee axles go right under rangers and explorers with minimal effort.. start with sceep's solution and go from there...

Last edited by fordraceboy; 10-24-2006 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 10-25-2006, 05:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordraceboy
jeep cherokee axles go right under rangers and explorers with minimal effort.. start with sceep's solution and go from there...
but go with the dana 44 front axle..and leave the stock ranger/sploder rear..theyre stronger than the heep rear axles...(if your ranger has the 8.8)

the d30 isnt worth the trouble if your going to wheel it..
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Old 10-25-2006, 06:25 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4junkie
Yeah, no flex here either

TRS has the info you're after.
Too many solid-axle-lovers here that can't be bothered answering questions about TTB junk

PS, its easier than you think, the biggest thing though is figuring out what spring rate you need and doing the math to get the right height coilsprings. Also, as swiss mentioned, the stock steering sucks, you may want to swap that out for something that uses a centerlink.
I agree 100% on the right length coil bit. I tried 2 different lift heights and they are still too short. I guess the 3rd time will be the charm. I'm now waiting on specs for new coils.



I just need longer coils.

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Old 10-25-2006, 07:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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That's alot of travel Joel, but how are you going to fix the fawked up camber issue when you run longer coils? You tires will be running like \-o-/ My 86 BII did that with just a 2" budget coil boost. The cambe issues are the absolute worst part about the TTB. There's just no other way to say it, it's junk.

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Old 10-25-2006, 07:29 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sarge_AF
That's alot of travel Joel, but how are you going to fix the fawked up camber issue when you run longer coils? You tires will be running like \-o-/ My 86 BII did that with just a 2" budget coil boost. The cambe issues are the absolute worst part about the TTB. There's just no other way to say it, it's junk.
Oh Ye have little faith. Don't worry Sarge I've got proper lift bracekts. I'm only using the 4" pivot locations right now but If I go to a taller coil I can move them down to the 6" location.Actually right now with the coils I have I get a little /---0--\ of that going on. So I can go up an inch or so and still be OK.
I haven't even touched my camber bushings. They are still set from when this front axle was in the Ranger.

Face it Sarge if it wasn't for AKBroncoII You'd still have the stock suspension under the X.

BTW How's Alabama treating you?

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Old 10-25-2006, 07:58 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel H
Face it Sarge if it wasn't for AKBroncoII You'd still have the stock suspension under the X.

BTW How's Alabama treating you?
Nah, but I would still have the VMS brackets, and the TTB. Andrew cut me a hell of a deal on the 44/9, that's the only reason I was able to afford it.

As for 'Bama, I LOVE it! the laws are so slack compared to Alaska. The only problem is there's nowhere local to go wheel.
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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this is the most flex I got out of my TTB
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:13 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Is that what your truck started out looking like??
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:31 AM   #22 (permalink)
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YUP!
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Old 10-25-2006, 06:36 PM   #23 (permalink)
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DAMN it changed just a littlebit that is a big differance from what it is now
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Old 10-25-2006, 10:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Camber doesn't cause anywhere NEAR the handling issues fawked up steering causes. Throwing just the shitty stock steering in that dumpster is really all thats needed here.

But if the camber on droop still bothers you, you could always reduce it by running a limit cable or strap from one side over the frame to the other though (preventing both wheels from drooping out together as far, but still allowing articulation).
I actually tried this on mine... the biggest benefit I got from it, the damn hood doesn't rise up as far when climbing hills, you can actually see over it better.
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Old 10-26-2006, 05:41 AM   #25 (permalink)
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The dreaded camber issue really isn't an issue until you hit max flex, and then it is on the trail, where in a lot of cases, it keeps a tire planted against the hill instead of running on the sidewall like the straight axles.

There are limitations in the TTB, but not half as many as has been suggested here. For trail use, you may be happier with one than with a light-duty straight axle. For more hard-core use, the straight axle will be the ticket, but there will also be trade offs in cost and ride.

I've about maxed mine out as cheaply as possible:

1. 1977 F150 3" lift coils
2. F250 shock mounts, modified to fit stud shock
3. 2006 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 shocks
4. Super Duty brake hoses
5. Clearance some areas that tend to hit
6. Worn rubber bushings on the radius arm ends
7. Remove anti-sway bars
8. C-clip removal modification

I measure right at 18" from top of travel to lowest droop at the hub.

Total cost to accomplish this travel (using a lot of cast off parts and general scrounging) -- less than $100. The money was spent on the shock mounts and Super Duty hoses. Everything else was free.

Oh, BTW, this is my DAILY DRIVER. Last year it DROVE to Moab, wheeled there and drove home. It DROVE to Panama City, parked on the beach for pics, and drove home. It DROVE to Pennsylvainia and back, and it DROVE to Wisconsin a couple times, not to mention all the local wheeling. NO TRAILER last year...

In the pic below, my tires are already at the level of the body sheet metal, but the springs are hardly extended... That means there is a bunch left to go...



This one shows it working on one side -- not as much camber issue -- and more typical for trail use.



I've been wheeling this rig for 3 years now on 33's in all sorts of terrain, and have ZERO broken parts.



I am also, however, building a Ranger SAS that will be setup for more hard core wheeling. I know the limitations of the TTB for huge rock piles, big tires, etc.
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Last edited by glfredrick; 10-26-2006 at 05:47 AM.
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