Tricks for removing radius arm mount from axle? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

ZombieFan223 · 11-06-2006, 01:14 PM

I got a 68 ford pickup with a 9" and a HP44 and will be just using the axles for my toyota. I was curious if anyone has little tricks for getting the radius arm/coil bucket mount that is on the axle off. I am using leaves, so I won't be needing them for anything. I would just leave them on, but they are kind of rock anchors on the bottom, and I believe my springs are going to hit part of them. Thanks a bunch.

afecko · 11-06-2006, 01:26 PM

Angle grinder. Cut through the welds and knock them off with a BFH.

68Broncoholic · 11-06-2006, 02:10 PM

Yup, get the grinder out. Make sure you grind horizontally towards the weld and not at an angle into the weld. This way you don't cut into the tubes. Once you get most of the weld grinded away a sledge (BFH) will bust it the rest of the way off.

wyldstallyn73 · 11-07-2006, 12:57 AM

If you can get them off without damaging them, I might want them-pm me

sn0border88 · 11-07-2006, 03:29 PM

You need to cut in at a slight angle or you wont seperate the weld from the tube, cut in at a slight angle and check often to make sure your not in the tubes. Do both sides then smack with a very large BFH.

It may help to heat one side with a torch then apply BFH, but I didnt have a torch so I couldnt try.

JoshTurner · 11-07-2006, 03:53 PM

As everyone said there just welded on...Take your time taking them off dont damage them...They are in high demand for some of us Ford guys...

Hyde · 11-08-2006, 10:25 PM

Oh and one quick thing, hope you aint using you pass. side drop t-case

SMC · 11-13-2006, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoshTurner

As everyone said there just welded on...Take your time taking them off dont damage them...They are in high demand for some of us Ford guys...

James Duff:

Axle Wedges
For the Bronco owner that is swapping front axles, these wedges make it much easier. No need to cut up a good front axle just for parts. These wedges are designed to weld onto a 2 3/4” O.D. tube, just like a factory Early Bronco Dana 44 but are easily modified to fit onto 3” O.D. tubing found on high pinion Dana 44 and Dana 60. Cast with all the correct configurations to fit the inside of a C bushing exactly like original.
#5340 Axle Wedges, $85.00
http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/suspension_components.html

BnTMike · 11-13-2006, 09:48 PM

I cut the c off on the inside of the weld and then blow the remainder off with the smoke wrech... they are not welded on the sides. I quit grinding the weld after the 6th or 7th axle...you can re use them still to. WAYYYYY FASTER!!! JMO

Mike-

11-06-2006, 01:14 PM	#1 (permalink)
ZombieFan223 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Member # 68041 Location: Ridgecrest, CA Posts: 58	Tricks for removing radius arm mount from axle? I got a 68 ford pickup with a 9" and a HP44 and will be just using the axles for my toyota. I was curious if anyone has little tricks for getting the radius arm/coil bucket mount that is on the axle off. I am using leaves, so I won't be needing them for anything. I would just leave them on, but they are kind of rock anchors on the bottom, and I believe my springs are going to hit part of them. Thanks a bunch. __________________ When you need it, and don't have it, you'll sing a different tune.

11-06-2006, 01:26 PM	#2 (permalink)
afecko Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Member # 4438 Location: Foresthill Posts: 738	Angle grinder. Cut through the welds and knock them off with a BFH. __________________ Those who dare, win. Wish I had a Tuesday filter.

11-06-2006, 02:10 PM	#3 (permalink)
68Broncoholic Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Member # 72575 Location: Renton, WA Posts: 74	Yup, get the grinder out. Make sure you grind horizontally towards the weld and not at an angle into the weld. This way you don't cut into the tubes. Once you get most of the weld grinded away a sledge (BFH) will bust it the rest of the way off. __________________ 68 Bronco:302, NP435, NP205, HPD60, D70, 5:13 Gears, Detroits, Drive Flanges, Yukon 35 Spline Axles, 5.5" Cage Lift, 38" SSR, TR Bead Locks, 98" Wheel base, Stone Crusher Steering, Ram Assist, 1350 Drivelines, 3/8" thick Diff Covers

11-07-2006, 12:57 AM	#4 (permalink)
wyldstallyn73 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Member # 40162 Posts: 1,453	If you can get them off without damaging them, I might want them-pm me __________________ "Time you shut your cake-hole, YOKO!!!"

11-07-2006, 03:29 PM	#5 (permalink)
sn0border88 Master Apprentice Join Date: Nov 2005 Member # 56692 Location: Williamsport PA Posts: 1,251	You need to cut in at a slight angle or you wont seperate the weld from the tube, cut in at a slight angle and check often to make sure your not in the tubes. Do both sides then smack with a very large BFH. It may help to heat one side with a torch then apply BFH, but I didnt have a torch so I couldnt try. __________________ 1992 Explorer SAS'ed on HPD44/9" W/ 5.13 Locked F/R 36" TSL-SX on DIY Locks

11-07-2006, 03:53 PM	#6 (permalink)
JoshTurner Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Member # 56006 Posts: 2,111	As everyone said there just welded on...Take your time taking them off dont damage them...They are in high demand for some of us Ford guys...

11-08-2006, 10:25 PM	#7 (permalink)
Hyde Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Member # 53554 Location: St Maries Idaho Posts: 1,122	Oh and one quick thing, hope you aint using you pass. side drop t-case __________________ I break stuff. Gearing is a crutch for lack of horsepower.

11-13-2006, 09:48 PM	#9 (permalink)
BnTMike Zeus of the Sluice Join Date: Feb 2000 Member # 197 Location: Paradise,CA Posts: 2,802	I cut the c off on the inside of the weld and then blow the remainder off with the smoke wrech... they are not welded on the sides. I quit grinding the weld after the 6th or 7th axle...you can re use them still to. WAYYYYY FASTER!!! JMO Mike- __________________ LADD Racing #82 NCRR and 2014 KOH-EMC Mike Ladd and co dawg Perry Hemre Club Jackass Wheelers TTC 1999

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