Bubba Hyde Build...

[loveshackle]

Starting from scratch, so this will take a while.

Bubba Hyde should be a somewhat unique design. As the name (based on the song) indicates, it's a dual personality rig. Unlike ScottFJ40 (oh, the sadness), ndeep, & I, it'll only have 2 personalities.

Exterior is to be hardcore trail rig.

Interior will be all day ride plush. While I love the hardcore buggies, my wife and 2 young sons will much prefer something that will keep out the rain, be comfortable, have some entertainment, etc.

Here are the design elements.

'79 F150 frame - highly modified.
'76 F250 Crew Cab - highly modified.
Unimog 404 axles.
Ford 460 / C6 / 205.
Tube rear with 3-link & coilovers.
Tube front with shortened hood, 3-link, and coilovers.
90+ degree approach and departure angles.
42" Iroks.

[loveshackle]

Here is the original truck I started with. Has been in the family for years, and my sister and I have dented every panel. Had over 260k miles. 351M / T-18 / 205 with a HP D44 / 9" combo.

Ran it the last two years with no front fenders and 37" Swampers. But want a lot more.

Body is now gone. Kept the VIN tag and the rolling chassis.

Pic 3 is the '76 Crew Cab I picked up at Canyon Truck in Canon City, CO. Needs lots of work, but as I'm gonna change it all, it will work.

Pic 4 is the stock rolling frame.

Pic 5 is the pair of Mogs I bought on this board, out of Albuquerque.

[loveshackle]

Pulled the stock axles, which then received 5.13 gears with an OX in the front & Detroit in the rear. They'll get a new set of 35" Swampers and go under my '64 FJ40, including the radius arm front suspension.

First cut was taking the back 3 1/2' off the frame.

The 37's in the pics were sold on this board to a guy in Durango, CO for his Jeep project. They made a full circle, as I bought them off this board out of SLC a while back.

[loveshackle]

Sandblasted the frame, braced it, and cut out all the crossmembers except the welded in front drop crossmember, which I won't remove until the frame is mocked up above the axles.

Filled the 178 holes in the portion of the frame I am keeping (basically the length under the crew cab and 1' forward).

The front body mounts are the center point of this build. Everything is aligned/measured from them.

However, I wasn't happy with the way they extend below the frame and are riveted on, so I cut them off, scalloped them, welded the lower bushing plate inside the mount, 'boxed' the mount with 1/8" steel, and welded them back on the frame in their original locations.

Installed 1" x 1" square tube inside the upper driver frame rail. This is for routing the locker cable and electrical to the rear of the truck.

This will be joined by 1 1/2" pipe inside the bottom of each frame rail for routing coolant to & from the rear mounted radiator (necessary due to the bobbed front end).

I'll then box the frame rails with 1/8", recessed 3/4" to allow for further wiring / brake lines / rear heater pipe routing while not being readily visible or subject to damage.

[old79bronco]

Lookin good

[4xMedic]

This looks pretty cool! Kepp it up and keep posting the pics!

[Proeliator]

I really like what your doing, but I think you'll regret using the 404's under that build. I'd use 406s as the minimum, with u1300's as preferrable. But then, I do tend to overbuild.

[loveshackle]

I hear ya, Pro, but I'm pretty light on the pedal...and I'm not afraid to buy the CNC portal boxes, if I start breakin' em. Don't think that thought hasn't crossed my mind, tho.

Thanks for the comments.

Cut & fit all the boxing plates today & a piece of 7" channel (1/4") to make my rear crossmember, tying the two ends of the frame together & a mounting point for my upper links. Lots of boxing to come.

Making boxing plates in the center of the chassis (at rear footwell) & at the rear that will be removable. Also, passing the coolant pipes and wiring tube thru the rear crossmember.

[Proeliator]

Originally Posted by loveshackle

I hear ya, Pro, but I'm pretty light on the pedal...and I'm not afraid to buy the CNC portal boxes, if I start breakin' em.

Well, that being the case you'll probably be okay. I know the 404's don't do well with good hp numbers, and a weightier rig; especially once the tires get in the air, but it doesn't sound like you'll be getting too nutty. Don't want to disrupt the kids in the back playing the xbox while your wheeling

[zainyD]

Loving this build so far. Did you also consider Rockwells? What made you go with Mogs?

[loveshackle]

2 screens and a PS3, actually, Pro.

Z-dude. I went with the mogs because 1) portal was important. Clearance & big rubber without rig height is of the upmost importance to me. 2) I got, I think, a great deal. 3) My personal thought is that Rocks are overkill for what I need, and everybody and their mother is doing 'em. Don't get me wrong, they work, and are bad ass, but I find the Mogs more unique and interesting.

[zainyD]

Originally Posted by loveshackle

I went with the mogs because 1) portal was important. Clearance & big rubber without rig height is of the upmost importance to me. 2) I got, I think, a great deal. 3) My personal thought is that Rocks are overkill for what I need, and everybody and their mother is doing 'em. Don't get me wrong, they work, and are bad ass, but I find the Mogs more unique and interesting.

That's cool, just wondering. Can't wait to see more pics of the progress.

[Hyde]

lol I had to look, it has my name and my wheelin buddies and it looks sick, good work bro

[Ramboss429]

This looks like its gonna be a badass rig when your done. I'll definately be keeping an eye on this build, as I am planning one very similar in the near future....

[VerticalTRX]

Lookin good. I'm really diggin on the crew cab

[zainyD]

Originally Posted by VerticalTRX

Lookin good. I'm really diggin on the crew cab

x2

[welndmn]

Filling the swiss cheese on the frame will make it look clean! I also dig that body mount.
I am not sure about running the wire in the tube, I guess I change mine to much where I can string a new loom in sec's where fishing wire sucks.

[wtr40rock]

sweet build exactly like mine but, i'm using rockwells and a 351m. What wheelbase are you shootin for and where is your cab going to be(how much space behind it of frame will be left) i ask because if i made a fram i'de like to have the back of the cab like 6" from the back of the fram but i'm worried about visibility. also what do you mean be tubed front and rear like a tube bed and fenders or a back half job?

[loveshackle]

Shooting for <133" (edit 6/9/07: not gonna happen, especially with 49's. Wheelbase will be ~145") wheelbase. Frame stops about 2" beyond back of cab. Will be tube beyond there, with a fuel cell, batts, radiator, and something special frenched into the front of the fuel cell so you can't tell it exists.

Will have removable outer skins of 'stock' fenders that fasten to the tube, albeit shortened significantly.

Center of front axle is now aligned with the center of the stock panhard rod mount on the frame. Rear tires will clear back of cab by 3" in full compression. Modified frame will extend from front of grill (moved back 6-8" from stock) to the rear of the cab, with a C-notch at the front axle.

Bent 1 5/8" OD pipe for the radiator plumbing, 1 on each side, so that they are flush inside the bottom of the frame rails. Cutting mounting tabs & the 'turnouts' for the front ends now. Boxing plates are cut and fit, along with removable center sections.

Boxing frame ~3/4" inside the edge of the frame, so any additional wiring, etc, will have a nice protected place to hang out.

The electical tube and coolant pipes will pass thru the rear crossmember (boxed and gusseted 7" channel). With easy access to both ends of the electrical tube, and a wiring plan I've been laying out for 2 years, I'm not concerned about the difficulty of 'redoing' wiring there.

[Langford04PSD]

Awesome project, I would love to take on something like this one day. But that will probably have to wait until retirement, I will be keeping an eye on the build though.

[loveshackle]

Here's some shots of the coolant pipes going from engine back to the rear-mounted radiator location. Schedule 80 pipe. Still long on the rear...will be shortened & upturned later. Mocked in place. Primed back of pipe and inside of frame rails where pipe sits. Pulled out & welded tabs & turnouts in place. Ran beads around the finished end (engine bay side) for hose mounting. Remounted and welded into frame.

Boxing & rear crossmember are next.

[loveshackle]

Boxing and heater tube outlets for a rear seat 'mojave' style heater.

[guidolyons]

Not a ford guy, but I like this one....

Just watch him met-a-morphi-size from Barney Jekyll into Bubba Hyde!

[Proeliator]

Just remember to leave ample flex points on the coolant pipe

[wyldstallyn73]

I don't suppose you are planning on ditching the doors?? If so, I would be interested in giving them a new home.