I have a 91 5.0 mustang engine, switched to carb, in my 1985 4runner. anyways the problem is, well, A, it has seized from sitting up for about a year, but ive had some lubricant/penetrant sitting in the cylinders a day or so... but that shouldnt be a problem.
Heres the thing i need major help with... after 2 nights i believe i have all the wiring right between the battery, keyed ignition switch, solenoid switch, starter, and ignition. However apparently my engine itself isnt wired right or grounded or something...
Without any wires attached to the engine, just bolted in, the solenoid just clicks, however it delivers 12.8 volts all the way to the starter. Now, if i take some heavy guage wire and wire the back of the intake manifold to the firewall (grounding engine to body), the starter will clunk almost hard enough to turn the seized engine over. The slight problem with this is that it melts the wire within seconds. So it appears its shorting out somewhere, i also tried grounding the block to the frame, same deal except a weaker clunk, yet the wire still melted.
There are NO wires, the old wiring harness is gone and im starting from scratch, so how is the engine supposed to be grounded and why amd i melting stuff?
since the starter is stalled against the locked up engine, it is acting like a short circuit, I would break it free with a breaker bar or something, and hope you didnt already fry the starter. I would guess that you would be able to melt even a battery size cable doing what you did.
Break the engine free then try again with at least 4 gauge, better yet 2 or 1/0
I was wondering if the engine being seized was making it short circuit. Well i had already tried turning it by hand with a fat breaker bar, but im scared to push too hard because i dont want to break that bolt on the front of the crank. and ive gotten it to turn a little ways with the starter.
But anyways, when i get it unseized, for correct working order i need to have the block grounded to the frame with a minimum of 4 guage wire?
Look for #2 wire, larger if you can get your hands on it. Many people undersize their ground, and wonder why they have funny, intermittant problems.
Why in the hell did you take the EFI off of that engine, and go with a carb? That's like filling up a Ferrari with 87 gas and buying tires for it at Pep Boys in the 4 for $100 rack.:shaking::flipoff2:
i didnt convert it, the person i bought it from did, but i probably would have anyways just for ease of swap.. i HATE wiring, and trying to make the EFI run in my yota mighta been more than i can handle considering i cant even wire the carbed engine right. :flipoff2:
but i got it for a great price, i got a 1991 5.0 remanufactured autozone engine, with less than 1000 miles on it cuz dude hit a bear in PA :shaking: and it was sitting in a toyota, with Holley 600 carb, weiand intake, ford to toy motor mounts, headers, mallory distributor and coil, AOD transmission, and the $800 adapter to mate the AOD to the Toyota Tcase... all for $1100... to bad i drug my feet on getting it wired up and going and it seized, hopefully it will make a full recovery without a rebuild...
but im looking forward to the extra power, and i have a feeling ill be frequenting over to the ford board a bit more... thanks for all the help!!
Are all the belts still on the engine? sitting for a year should not have seized the engine unless it got water in it somehow. in my experience it is the water pumps that seize up. if you got it turn a little with the breaker bar maybe the belt slipped a little allowing it to turn. try taking the belts off and turning it with the spark plugs out. I bought a 302 off ebay and thought that it was locked up and it was just the water pump. definetly dont try it with the starter. try it with the belts and the plugs out to get the least resistance possible. also connect the engine to body ground to the back of the head, not the intake, especially if it is an aluminum intake, it will get a better ground this way and thats how they came stock IIRC.
thanks, im pretty sure all of the pulleys do move, it is a serpentine belt setup (thank goodness, so much better only having one belt than the 3 on the 22re...) and im pretty sure all of the pulleys move, but i will take the belt off just to make sure.
my thinking is it CANT have seized THAT much in only a year. but i dont want to pry too hard and risk breaking the crank bolt. A friend said something about a flywheel tool that has teeth where you can turn the flywheel, ive also heard send 24V to the starter, but im just letting it sit for now and praying to the WD40 (actuallly "knock-em loose" penetrant and lubricant) Gods and trying to figure all this stuff out.
also, anyone know a good, small radiator setup? im hurting for room in the front, im planning on doing a pushing fan as it is...
i would like to go rear radiator, but its a 4runner so its a waysss back there, and i dont know how i would route it out of the engine bay.. its pretty tight unless i go below the frame rails which is not sounding too smart..
Ive never messed with a toyota, but I have heard that pontiac fiero rads are good for v8 swaps. also try using some 'upper cylinder lubricant' you should be able to pick it up at any parts store if not than motorcycle shops will have it for sure. if this doesnt work then I would just go buy some gaskets and tear into to check it out. let us know what happens.
yeah, if something doesnt give soon im just gonna pull the heads and have a look-see.... its so cool this pushrod simplicity, dont get me wrong i loved my 22-re... pretty much bulletproof... but i like simplicity.. and this whole idea of pulling the heads not really being a big deal is just friggin cool :smokin:
I've used Coke before to free up rusted rings. It's not a really good idea though- best case you have still-rusted cylinders with the rings filing them back down. Worst case you break the top of a piston, bend a rod or some other fun crap. Be careful!
well guys, i tried with a breaker bar, after some "knock em loose" penetrant sat in there for a few days, no go.. something was twisting a lil bit but it wasnt the crank... so i bumped the starter about 4 or 5 times and each time it moved a lil more till finally it was turning over, so i kept bumping the starter and spraying lube in to try keep the cylinder walls and rings in as good of shape as possible.
Lo and behold i now have some good ground straps that dont get hot at all...... and i have moved on with my wiring! thanks for all the help guys! :smokin:
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Pirate 4x4
18.7M posts
366.4K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!