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Junkyard lift?

3K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  Proeliator 
#1 ·
okay i wanna make my 77 ford f250 fit 44's,with out cutting the fenders all away(they will still be cut),anyone ever made a junkyard lift kit and if so what did you use for parts?
 
#2 ·
id say just make some shackles lo get it up there a little bit. then you could do an add a leaf. you could get an easy 4-6" of lift for under $200. also you can make yourself a body lift. (or buy one) my buddy has a chebby with stock springs, a 6" body lift and long shackles that clears 44"s and then some. with no fender trimming.
 
#5 ·
2" longer shackles will only give you 1" of lift. You could also look into having your springs re arched, or lower your spring hangers. A 3" body lift is cheap, if you dont care about the flaming you might get, do it.

You can find some reasonably priced used lift springs(for the front) and do a shackle flip for the rear for the easiest results for a decent lift. Research rear spring fitment from other vehicles, you will be able to make anything work if you put your mind (or wallet) to it.

ONe issue you might run into is the tire rubbing on the cab mounts. Fixing that is a pain Ive read.
 
#6 ·
F super duty front spring hangars (off the rear end). They bolt on, 15mm bolt head. I know because I had to break 2 snap on 9/16 sockets hammering them on because they were 15mm, and no 5/8 didnt fit. I think I got the pair for 17 or 18 bucks. then box your shackles and call it a day.
 
#7 · (Edited)
This thread is gay. You want to run 44" tires but you dont want to spend any money on suspension? Is this truck being built to drive from your farm hauling a trailer full of rental goats and pigs to the nearest hick town? Do you have all of your teeth? Do you go to the libary for access to the interweb? :flipoff2:
 
#8 · (Edited)
8" lift blocks front and rear...you could find an old flatbed in the junkyard built out of wood 4x4's and cut those up and use them for blocks...then allthread for ubolts....rebar is good for steering

Find an 80-97 f-350, put the rear springs up front without the top overloads, that shoudl net you around 5-6" of lift and push the axle foward 4" or so to get the tires off your cab mounts when turned....then shackle flip the rear to level it up, shocks, brakelines and crossover steering and driveshafts.....trim the fenders to fit.....

you will also want at least 3* wedges to turn your pinion yoke up towards the transfer case more, unless you go to a 1410 joint at the pinion

Front will flex fairly well and your approach angle will be much better
 
#9 ·
8" lift blocks front and rear...you could find an old flatbed in the junkyard built out of wood 4x4's and cut those up and use them for blocks...then allthread for ubolts....rebar is good for steering
Dood, he's SOOO gonna think you're serious :flipoff2:

Shackle flip for 4" in the rear, reverse the shackles up front and drop the mounts 4", then cut fenders. Bone cheap, but please do not attempt if you aren't a good welder. Bootyfab home-brew lifts make me want to punch babies.
 
#13 ·
Man you guys really know how to overbuild stuff, I mean 1/16" wall what are you crazy? Were building trucks not tanks here... Top the build off with a chrome driveshaft out back and a lack of driveshaft up front for optimum performance.
 
#22 ·
Nah, this isn't Toyota tech. Toyota drivers are all about booty fab driveshafts (square tube) to deal with our booty flex from using $100 worth of Shitvy springs in the back and our rear springs in front. Don't forget radiusing out the rusted fenders to get more tire clearance.

If you want to go 44's but you don't want to spend money you're in for trouble. Have you touched the axles yet? I'd be more worried about making sure it will hold together and then making it fit than making it fit and then grenading parts myself.
 
#24 ·
Seriously, make the truck capable of handling the tires first. The only reason I say that is because on last year's Memorial Day run with the local club a guy was showing off his freshly built F-250. The thing was gorgeous with a built 460, 44's, nice body work, yada yada yada. You know how I know how great it looked? I spent a lot of time stuck behind him after he shattered his d44.
 
#26 ·
If you're going to run 44's and you're going to be using the skinny pedal 60's area good starting point. If you're just playing in mud that would probably be enough. If you start adding weight, bind, traction, etc you might find yourself upgrading the 60 front. It all depends on budget. Using the loud pedal can get expensive really fast.
 
#28 ·
well, if you're a welder then do the dropped hangers and shackles in the front. Just be sure to think about forces and brace them appropriately etc. Also you'll probably have to move them forward as far as possible to clear the body mounts. A d60 is a good idea.. or run your 44 until it breaks and do it then, although that might be a bit painful depending on where it dies.
 
#29 ·
Your hpd44 is worth a lot more in one piece right now than it will be broken when you're shopping for a 60. If you had a d30 front or a Toyota front I would say run it until it breaks, but you have something that might actually be worth something to someone. If you can find a 60 easily enough I would consider the swap now and sell that 44 for top price.

Why do you want 44's so much? 38.5's are probably more than enough. Honestly, I rarely see 44's being run for functionality more than looks.
 
#30 ·
Why do you want 44's so much? 38.5's are probably more than enough. Honestly, I rarely see 44's being run for functionality more than looks.

i dont know that kind of depends on where you wheel. like out here you can get through alot of the trails with 38.5"s no problem. but there are alot of big mudholes and deep ruts around here that just about everybody with 44"s gets stuck in.
 
#33 ·
Yup, we've got some SICK shit up here in the good ol' NW :usa:
 
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