Hey guys my new build up is in the planning stage and I am getting ready to transfer into the building process. Quick question:
Can you run a pass drop diff with a C4? Two piece drive shaft required? Or is it still impossible.
Is the servo/housing just to big to clear? I want to run a D300 clocked flat. I am not opposed to offsetting the engine/tranny to help with tcase/d-shaft clearance.
Anyone running this combo?
I have a 5.0L and I am getting a C4. I plan to run the shorty atlas adapter and a D300. I have a flipped D300 for my YJ but I want to run the non flipped D300 in the buggy. I have a pass drop D60, so running the pass drop D300 will save a ton of time/money. I can retube the D60 to drivers drop if I have too.
As far as I can recall, the trans case itself shouldn't be an issue. You may run into clearance issues with the bellhousing and starter though if you plan on running a passenger drop axle. It's too bad I don't have one of my c4s at my house to take some pics to show you.
I am running a 5.0, C4, and a Stak 2 speed in my buggy. Everything clears fine on mine with a 1 piece front shaft. I can post some pix later if you want.
Pics would be killer man! Do you know if the Stak is wider than a D300?
A one piece shaft would be nice since I already have one, hehehe. I will be narrowing the D60 to 64" so I can offset the diff even more to help with clearance as well.
The Stak is wider then the 300. I believe there's comparison dimensions between the 2 in the vendor section. The thread is about the replacement case for the 300.
I'll post up some pix tonite. I forgot to post them last nite.
These pix are kinda crappy. It was difficult to get a good shot of the whole setup, but I think you'll get the drift. That's a BAMF cv joint and it's huge. The driveshaft actually angles alittle towards the driver side. When I was fitting the new motor, tranny, tcase into my buggy which originaly had Toy stuff, the front driveshaft clearance was an issue. It fit though.
SWEEEET PICS MAN!! Thanks very much Jack. Thats exactly what I was looking for!
With the D300 clocked properly and with a little motor offset I might be able to run the one piece I have. Thanks again for the pics.
Do you have a thread with your motor build and/or specs in it. I have the 5.0, I am now trying to decide how to build it. I really want some aluminum heads to shave that 50lbs, plus the polymer upper plenum that shaves another 20lbs. If I can shave the 70lb or so and get about 300hp. I would be happy.
How are you liking the 5.0L so far on the trail. I know you guys crawl a lot, any warnings, insight or advice?
The driveshaft clears everything. I am usings the Advanced Adapters shorty C4 adapter.
As for the motor, I don't have any write up but I may be doing one soon. My 5.0 is pretty much stock except the throttle body, mass air meter housing, and headers. It has been a great motor so far. Plenty of power and low end grunt. I do need to redo the PCV system, cause when you roll, oil can pour into the intake. For the wiring, I used a Painless harness and it was a piece of cake. I have the Ford motorsports harness that I need to sell too. I want to swap the aluminum heads on there too, but that's going to have to weight. 5.0's are great motors for buggies.
My plan is the atlas shorty adapter as well. From Bell to output with my short D300 the overall length will be 30.5". Thats pretty short.
Thanks for the motor info, my plans are similar for the first round of the build. Try bolt on stuff first and then get into internals. 70mm TB, 24# injectors, 73mm MAF meter, etc... I may try the exploder intake and do some port matching to it. I already have a cam and the headers are in the mail. I dont want to swap cams if I dont swap heads since the heads are the choke point. Its just going to be hard to pony up the $$ for aluminum heads. Shoot thats the money for my alloy shafts & ujoints for my 60.
Did you eliminate all of the EGR parts, plus the ports, etc...? I want mine bare bones, Alt & PS pump & thats it.
I have a Harness and A9P ECM out of a 92 GT. I am just going to rework the stock harness.
I eliminated everything except the EGR. You need to wire in some resistors and stuff if you want to remove it. Otherwise the computer will throw error codes and the check engine lite will be on. I didn't do much else cause the heads are the choke. It runs pretty strong in it's current setup.:grinpimp:
My buddy ported a set of E7TE heads for me and got them to flow decently on his flow bench. You'll still have the weight of an iron head though. Overall, it should be a very nice responsive motor with the cam and head work.
I will have to look at the numbers we got when I get home. The intakes were around 205 - 210 @ .500 lift though IIRC. We could have gotten higher numbers if we would have increased the amount of lift to .600 or really hogged out the ports, but this was about the best we could do and maintain good velocity for drivability.
I upgraded the springs, but didn't do a valve job. The heads I have were off of a motor that was recently rebuilt and everything was still really nice so I didn't bother working on them too much.
We estimated that the absolute maximum lift you would want to run on a stock head and valve setup with upgraded springs would be about .550 lift. The ford motorsport cam listings kind of reinforce this because they don't offer any cams for this setup that are over .552 lift. With that said, I would still be really careful if you're running a cam with lift numbers that are close to .550 lift.
My buddy estimated that the heads will likely flow more than what a naturally aspirated 302 will actually be able to use anyway unless the motor is revved to about 7k rpm. I think these heads and the FMS e303 cam should work pretty well for my application. The weight savings of aluminum heads would be nice, but not worth the expense at this point.
I totally understand about the aluminum haed expense at this point. I have a FMS B and E cam at home. Which one I try first will depend on the heads I find.
I would like to find a nice set of stock ported heads either E7's or Gt40 irons before I swap cams. I dont want to go to the gt40P's because of the plug/header issues.
I really want usable HP in a good rpm range. For wheeling we dont need the 5-7K prm power band.
Want to sell one of your cams? I still need to buy one at this point.
I agree about the power band issues. I think that these ported E7 heads should work good for a truck or mild street application. If you wanted, you could send your heads to my buddy for porting. The only problem with that is that you would be sending them half way across the country.
I might take up your bud on porting if I cant find a good local shop. I am going to head to the drag strip and ask around a little.
I am going to hold on to the cams I have for now, at least until I decide which one will work best for my application.
Jump over on the www.corral.net forums and you can find FMS, B, E, &F cams for $100 shipped all day long. Sometimes cheaper depending on mileage. I dont hesistate to buy good used parts since my motor wont see 2000 miles over its entire lifespan. Since its trail only.
There are good deals to be found on those boards. Shoot I just picked up a PA reverse manual valve body for $80 shipped. Those suckers are about $250 new. You know how drag guys change stuff constantly chasing that low ET. The sell their take offs pretty cheap.
I'll have to head over there and check it out for cams.
Shoot me a PM if you want me to talk to my buddy about porting services. I'll get you his phone number so you can be in touch with him directly that way.
Here's the technical data for the heads. All testing was done at 28" of vacuum (the industry standard):
BTW - I used the Comp Cams spring and retainer kit. It seemed like all the kits I found were pretty much the same so I just picked one. The Comp springs are conical, so that might help with coil bind but who knows how much. I still would err on the safe side and probably stick with B, E, or F cams on these springs. Besides, I'm thinking that the B cam is probably going to be the best option for a crawler anyway.
Thanks for the flow numbers. They look pretty good for reworked stock heads. If I cant find anyone local I will shoot you a PM. Shipping steel heads to ND and back wont be cheap.
I am thinking the B cam will be the best option as well. After reading through the giant freaking 302 thread in the jeep forum. H8monday said he preferred the B over the E for trail riding. He said the E wasnt ideal for crawling. He ran several different combinations and felt the B was most effective and usable.
I don't blame you for not wanting to send the heads halfway across the country. I would think that a decent local shop should be able to replicate these fairly easily, but I guess it depends on what they really want to work on. Shops around here really give preference to dirt track guys and their own racing buddys.
I was leaning more towards the E cam for my application. I'm putting a 302 with a c4 in a 4x4 ranger just as a fun toy to drive to work so I'm looking for a little different power band than what I would be for a crawler. Hence the reason I suggested the B cam for that type of application.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Pirate 4x4
18.7M posts
366.4K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to custom off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, fabrication, drivetrain, and more!