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Well ummmm, yeah, try to guess what happened. . .

2K views 31 replies 19 participants last post by  mustange70 
#1 ·
Heres the pic from my last run from the mud bog on sat (the 9), try to guess what broke in the picture and the winner gets a big gay slap in the ass :flipoff2:, lol:

heres a link to a bigger picture (if you can't tell): http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/530666/original/dscf0902.jpg



I have a couple things i'd like some oponions on but i'm gonna wait till you guys and gals answer back :flipoff2:
 
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#5 ·
you dropped the tailgate?:D
 
#13 ·
Man this is great, i'm laughing my ass off at this, cause the broken part is a rectangular black box flying through the air, i'll give you a hint look just in front of the truck and you'll see, cause the rest of the truck is good to go, plus the right front is off the ground, thats why it looks funky.
 
#16 ·
if thats your battery you need some bigger cables. mine could fall out and drag for miles before my cables came off...
 
#18 · (Edited)
Ah, I see it now. Damn, those are some huge ass liftblocks you are running in the front :flipoff2:

edit: damn, bossman beat me to it...
 
#19 ·
yeah i hated dem damn blocks anyway :), it did impress the 16yr neighbor kid though last friday, she thought they were sexy :flipoff2:

Ding ding ding ding, we have a winner :). Yes my battery decided it had enough and took a trip of its own into a big puddle of mud. Reason why it went that way and not into the engine compartment is because i removed my inner fenders and built some canvas ones that go from the frame straight up to the hood so the wheel well is wide open. Anyway a nasty bump started to form at the end and i had some pretty good speed and i must've hit it just right cause the metal tabs that those long bolts with hooks on the one end that these trucks use to tie the battery in folded over and broke thus ejecting the battery, it sucked doggy poop cause it cost me the couple hundreths of a second i needed to place and be in the money.


Anyway know the few things i'm wondering about are of where to place the new optima i'll be getting, which one wire alternator does everyoe like, and what other electronics should i move into the cab.

First is the battery, now this is a comp truck and is not street legal nore will it ever be. So as such its driven very little and so i've decided to remove the heater box/motor/core etc, and i'm thinking of building a simple steel battery box and hold down system then mount it in behind the glove box so that you can just pop the glove box cover and the battery is right there, and on then i'd include a heavy duty battery shutoff switch somewhere, any input on to where i should put it, and then for the rest of the electronics the starter solenoid would be placed on the outside of the battery box, then i migh consider running a couple heavy guage wires from it to an easiily acesible place for when we have to use to remote start when fixing something. any thoughts on this?

Next is the alternator, as i want to get rid of as many wires as i can and i'd like to go to a one wire 100amp unit, now summit sells some for just under 100 bucks which is the right price, but are there anyones better then anyothers for the 100-140 price range? (for hook ups i'd just run the wire to the battery to keep it simple)

Then does anyone have any other thoughts on what electrical devices should be run into the cab (i'm switching to a hei dizzy too, so one wire hookup there)? and i could probably get rid of the rest of the wiring in the truck too i would think.
 
#20 ·
I wouldnt run a 1 wire alt, or an HEI, on anything

you certainly do not need 100amps if it is a drag race only vehicle. all you run is the ignition, right?
I would get the 90 amp small case 3g from the wreckers if I was racing but if you want 100+ amps then a large case 130amp is stock in the taurus and other mid 90s cars with electric fans
you need 2 wires leaving the alternator. a 12v (ignition switched) to tell the ALT to run and the charge wire to the battery

the first thing a serious GM race motor gets is a ford style MSD ignition (if they run centrifigal advance it is usually a gm style for some reason).
the duraspark is super easy to curve and work on.

if you want to go high tech start looking at 4.6l DIS parts and a MegVoltJr box
 
#21 ·
NO ignition boxes, as they don't like water and the hei parts are more plentiful and readily avaible if something fawks up, i do realize there are better systems such as just simply upgrading the ford style setup, but i see lots of deep mud and water and i want to keep the electronics KISS, i have been looking into the DUI stuff though and might bite the loss and get the more $$ dui stuff.

Diddo on the later style ford alts. they do not like water as we have had issues with them (the small case style) in some other trucks and they are also expensive up here, even from the wreckers, also we'v ehad issues with them burning out at the extend rpm range that i run in, yes i did consider it but i decided against that, with that said the summit one i was looking at uses the old c2 (i think thats correct) case and has the regulator built in, i will be calling summit sometime this weekend for more info. a far as the amp thing i'm not set in stone on that as it seems thats what most of the aftermarket stuff is and it then gets expensive quick if you start wanting more.
 
#22 ·
wow.. you certianly have made up your mind, why don't you just get a chevy while your at it??

ignition boxes don't like water?? come on, its a completely SEALED box, with expoxy on the bottem, and sealed where the wires go in..

One wires suck, been there, done that, got the t-shirt, just which I coulda got my $164 back.. (fuck powermaster) Put a 3G on it, and be done, or stay stock, or put a older 3 wire(runs on 2, and the second is about 2" long) GM on it, if you just have to put GM parts on your ford..

But forget the HEI junk, I'd rather have my coil and ignition mounted AWAY from the heat and vibration of the motor, AND I like mounted away from the front of the motor, like god(and ford) intended it to be.

IMHO, the only real reason to get rid of duraspark is to put in a MSD setup, to gain a rev limiter. There is a reason that any real aftermarket racing ignition has far more in common with DSII than HEI. Hell, take a look at a mallory HEI chevy distributor, it uses FORD wieghts, springs and reluctor arm..

KISS? how is redoing the entire ignition system any more KISS than leaving the vastly superior stock setup in there?

Commonly available and plentiful? Whats more commonly available, A HEI coil, or a coil that EVERYTHING else uses? or even duraspark boxes? every parts store has them, and they are the same price as a HEI module(but guess what they keep more of in stock[meaning gets replaced more]) If you are that worried about it, carry a spare one in your glove box, or on your fender(ive had one there for 4 years, and never used it yet)
 
#24 ·
And now..........for an entirely different opinion ;)

Yes, the one wires system is not as good as the good ol' ford setup. However, if simplicity is the goal there is nothing wrong with them if you go with a good alt to begin with. I used to be totally against them (like the rest) but I now have a one wire 200 amp( w lifetime warrenty) on both the eb and SuperBeast and have not had problem one. Also, while I'm not hanging on the nuts of h.e.i. the Davies Unified Ignition sytems IS pretty sweet and as about as streamlined as you can get. I ran that on my 428cj untill I sold it. I'd have no problems recomending that particular setup to anybody. Its a pretty awesome setup on anything other than an all out race motor.
 
#25 ·
I'm in complete agreement with you guys that the msd/ford style is better hands down, but right now the stock stuff won't cut it, and if/when ever i do go to the msd stuff i will be buying the best i can, but the truck is no where near the power/competition level for my to justify dropping the amount of money on a new msd dizzy and box that i would want to get. The hei/dui setup is mid ground and for my purposes its a hell of a lot easier to fix electrical gremelims when you only have 3-4 wires (excluding the plugs wires of course) to check over, cause if there is any type of hole/bared wire (hell we've had a single pin hole in a wire kill a motor before, the weirdest part was what caused the hole) water will splash up and find it and kill the motor, i've seen it happen (as well as have it happened to myself) way to many times in the classes we run, cause with stock to even up to 400hp, 3-4ft deep is cause electric issues to arise unless everything is sealed up just perfect.


As far as the chevy thing, this will be a total of 2 parts, and i'm just as against it as you are but if its gonna help till i can affor bigger and better, so be it.

as far as the ford modules go we've had issues with water/crap getting into those plastic connectors they use and shorting out the module, it has to be perfectly sealed in order to prevent this, but yes it is a good setup, but for what i need it for it serves little use in stock form.
 
#28 ·
Umm... you can trigger MSD 6 series with a Stock Ford DS distributor... ;)
 
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