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C4 t-cases

2K views 33 replies 12 participants last post by  inphobic 
#1 ·
What t-cases are you guys runnin' behind your C4? Also, what are the pros/cons of your setup? Thanks
 
#2 ·
I will be running a Ranger t-case (whatever borg warner case that is) in a Ranger. The big plus here is that everything is bolt together. I'm not sure of any downfalls yet since it isn't completely finished yet.

I've got another project that I'd like to use a c4 in as well, but the lack of available options for passenger side drop transfer cases that will bolt up to it (without expensive adapters) is keeping me from doing it.
 
#3 ·
I run a Early bronco Dana 20.

PROS
All gear driven
descent low range (2.6X:1)
easy to twin stick

CONS
weak output shaft (but aftermarket shafts are avalable ie Advance Adapter 32 spline)
 
#4 ·
BW 1350 (Stock RBV)

Pro's: It's bolted up with no aftermarket adaptors.

Con's: 25 spline input means the trans output is necked down considerably... does break occasionally with a V8..
 
#6 ·
c4/klune-v/np205

pros, super short, torquie(is that a word?), bulletproof (hopefully)

cons - expensive, still not running so who knows how bulletproof it really is
 
#19 ·
That's tastey. What output shaft/adaptor housing are you using on the C4 to bolt the Klune up to it?
 
#7 · (Edited)
yeah I have been running the 4:1 klune to 205 for years now and it is awesome. I hope to get a DIY klune kit going by the end of summer so you can use the planetaries out of a 231 to build your own.... :) cousre it will be a 2.72:1 reduction before the bronco 20.
the 20 boxes are 2.34 or 2.46 to one. By the way.

We are looking to buy a rig that has a c4 to bronco 20 in it already but I woudl like to convert it back to use a 1350 case so that a D&D doubler will go on the back of that. Is that a dumb idea?
Jake
 
#8 · (Edited)
We are looking to buy a rig that has a c4 to bronco 20 in it already but I woudl like to convert it back to use a 1350 case so that a D&D doubler will go on the back of that. Is that a dumb idea?
Jake
How heavy is the vehicle going to be? Considering what Totalled mentioned above about transmission output shaft breakage behind a v8, I might be concerned.

I'm actually kind of concerned about it at this point myself. I'm working on a pretty healthy motor that will be going in front of a c4 with a 25 spline output shaft and I'm thinking that it may break when I actually apply the power. I don't have any first hand experience to relay at this point however...
 
#9 ·
I'm actually kind of concerned about it at this point myself. I'm working on a pretty healthy motor that will be going in front of a c4 with a 25 spline output shaft and I'm thinking that it may break when I actually apply the power. I don't have any first hand experience to relay at this point however...
I'm not sure that you guys realize that these t-case came from v8 equiped 4,000lb vehicle factory. The output shafts that I have seen go personally was with a manual transmission in a real bad situation. Plus there are several different upgrade options. Are they the strongest case out there? Definately not but they are definately stronger than a jeep 20 and probably close to the jeep 300 in strength.
 
#11 ·
the 20 boxes are 2.34 or 3.46 to one. By the way.
hmmmmmmm... I thought factory ratios were 2.34 and 2.46.... :D

crawlers gears are 3.15's from Tera and 4.86 from O'Brien's....


I hope to get a DIY klune kit going by the end of summer so you can use the planetaries out of a 231 to build your own.
which 231 are you gonna use... fullsize or s-10...?

I have a twin sticked D20 with the Klune adapter....for sale
 
#12 ·
Well I may not have 500Hp, but I do have a solid 400 ftlbs of torque. My C4, which by the way has a 28 spline output, has held up just fine. So has my Dana 20 Tcase. I have been known to do do a burnout or two at the cruise in on Saturday nights. I don't see why you would want to remove a gear driven cast iron case for an aluminum chain drive case. Wild Horses' sells a kit to use a Dodge 203 for a doubler with the Dana 20. Or you can go with the Klune. If your afraid your going to tear something up, why not go with a C6/205?
 
#20 ·
So, this question may be a bit off topic but along the same lines...

Has anyone ever tried taking a 2wd output shaft, cutting it down and splining it for different applications such as a 23 spline output for Jeep use or 27 spline output to use with a GM transfer case?

I know there are places around that will cut splines on a shaft, but I'm not sure how well something like this would hold up or how much it would cost. Any thoughts on this?
 
#22 · (Edited)
I have a 4.3 atlas behind mine. I looked at the gearing options and heavy dutys shafts and decided that having a new t-case was worth the $500 I would have saved using the Dana 20 and the upgrades to that case. Just a side note Big Oly was two wheel drive:D http://www.bajabronco.com/BigOly.shtml this is a good write up about it.:spam:
 
#24 · (Edited)
Right... I was asking because I have a RBV C5 with the 25 spline output... (weak) that I would want to swap out If I were to run an Atlas or a Klune because I would hate to drop $2500 on an atlas that would bolt up only to break 25 spline shafts and be stuck with an atlas that would only be of use to other RBV people...

Is there ever a stock or aftermarket C4 application that used the 31 spline, 6 bolt setup like the other fullsize tranny's?
 
#25 ·
Is there ever a stock or aftermarket C4 application that used the 31 spline, 6 bolt setup like the other fullsize tranny's?
Not that I'm aware of. This was kind of the reason I was asking about if anyone had used a 2wd output shaft, cut it down, and splined it for some other application. I know AA makes the kit that has been mentioned in this thread, but that kit eliminates the governor from what I understand. With no governor you would obviously be stuck only using a manual valve body.
 
#26 ·
Hate to bring up an old thread but how do yall think a bronco dana 20 would hold up behind a near stock 5.0 HO and C4 in, lets say, a 2500 lbs single seater rig on 40" iroks. Tring to decide between this or buying the adt. for the dana 300 i also have. I know there on different sides but thats not a problem. this rig is for my younger brother that has Never been offroad before and has NO 4X4 exp. Im trying to get him a hobby.
 
#28 ·
yea it is, taken july 4th. boke rear limiting strap, CV, and front stub shaft. it was a great trip. waiting to get my leg out of a cast so i can go wheeling again.
well if it holds up to that power then maybe he'll be fine. funny thing is that he doesnt even know im doing this for him. ive already got him a rear 9", a HP 44 front, the 5.0 with GT40 P heads, C4, dana 20 and dana 300 and if another deal works out ill have him some 90% 39.5 iroks. All so far for $350(not counting the tires)
 
#30 ·
yea, im sure the front axle will go first but you can still drive out with a busted front axle, unless its a balljoint or knuckle. besides the real weak link is behind the steering wheel. the thing is if he wheels it hard and brakes the axle, he will learn 2 things. first, how to fix it. second, how to drive. i guess time will tell.
 
#33 ·
i never had 33s, but the open diff with mismatched 31 on a bone stock cj5 was my teacher. i jumped to 36s and spring over with sawzaled fenders after having to leave my jeep in the woods for 3 days. then i learned the hard way about dana 44s and ag hydo rams and all the other ******* stuff you pretty much have to learn on your own even tho someone with more experience told you it would suck.
 
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