anyone narrow this rear?
i'm debating drilling out the "plug welds", pulling the tubes, shortening and pressing back in.
can the cast housing take this? the tubes are pressed in very far.
my other idea is to cut a section out the tube in the middle, then machine a custom fit inner sleeve, press fit and plug weld both sides of the tube.
fyi, i'll be trussing over top and going with a 4-link setup
I'd use a different axle.
Mainly because you'd be resplining your stock axles, and I don't know where the neck down on them is, if you can even respline them.
No one makes aftermarket 10.25 axles.
Come on Mark this is a sport that is based on making things "nobody makes". 20 years ago nobody was making doublers, using portal axles, Ford 9" front diffs etc. etc. How can you say nobody makes them.:shaking:
3/4tonYJ- Call Mosher Eng., Strange Eng., Summers Bros., Haisley Machine, or SCS Gearbox Inc. They can make the axles you need, just call them and ask.
Some of us vendors talked around about it.
It came out to the only option being Jack at CTM to make them as one had a blank or a want to make under 150 sets.
I know jack will make them, but is your money
hey, don't laugh too much.
we've cut, and machined male (one end) female (other end) threads and screwed together the halfs, then welded. they did last for normal driving...... not lockers and 44's
i generally work with Dana axles, i just want to be different and use this Sterling in my '52. it's not going to see any real wheeling, i'm even leaving the diff. open. also, i'm the first to admit i don't know much about Sterlings........
but this one is 1.5 inch, 35-spline (after reading the posts, i went and put a Dana 60 side gear on one just to triple check) if it's a different spline pitch or something, it not much.
i believe this is an '87 axle, the shafts do neck down alittle, and the splines are rolled. also the flange end is the standard 8 on 4" pattern. so i don't think i'll have a problem getting shafts made, (i almost always use moser eng.)
fyi, the only real difference i see with these axle shafts is they have an o-ring groove, but permatex ultra has alway worked for me in the past.
anyone drill the plug weld and press out the tubes on one of these?
oh, another sterling newbie question?........... how do you tell the difference between a 10.25 and a 10.5 (other than measure the ring gear)
cut and sleave the housing, cut and weld the axles :flipoff2: ive welded a narrowed toy rear - 12 " from one side - cut and sleaved the tube - cut the axle removed 12 " turned it down - put some DOM over it and welded away - only broke once - doing burn outs - hasent broken since we did the DOM ( was water pipe the frst time )
I've narrowed some full floaters before. I cut the axle ends off & but welded them back together ( just like when doing a semi floating axle ) without any problems. I've got a narrowed Dana 70HD from a dually out there in a Land Cruiser that hasn't had any problems, and it's being pushed by a big block Chevy on 42" Swampers. The key is to make sure that the axle ends are straight & true. You need to use carrier bore bushings where the differential bearings go ( differential needs to be removed ) & a housing fixture end at the ends of the axle tubes / spindles. I had a housing fixture end tool made that fits the GM 14 bolt, Dana 60 & the Dana 70 spindles. You will have to have a housing fixture end made for the Sterling spindles. My tool was made using a lathe to insure the alignment was perfect.
I'd contact Moser Engineering for full floater axle shafts, they are able to make a full floating axles up to 35 spline & any 8 lug pattern for $315 a pair. Dutchman lists that they make them for the 14 bolt, Dana 60 & Dana 70s for $295 a pair, but I don't see why they could not make some for the Sterling rear end.
diddo on what bronco II, probably the strongest way to do, as i can forsee issuea arising with the cast housing if you don't do it just perfect, and the sleveing of the tube just adds a lot of uneccessary weight, and no matter what you do everything has to be perfect straight, so X2 on the chopping the ends and moving them inboard as listed above.
i thought that the only truck that got rear disc before the mod motors came in them was the dana 80 (10 lug) in the 450's and heavier (the pre 99 superduties)
made acouple cuts today, removed about 7" from each side.
also ordered some 4" O.D. .250 wall DOM also..........
anyone ever used this site? http://www.discountsteel.com/index.cfm/go/main.home
i hated paying $40 plus shipping for 2, 8" pieces, but i couldn't find any local and just got tire of looking :homer:
PFt. Hes going to run the new invisi-shafts :flipoff2:
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