I know a few people here have done this, and am looking for pointers before I start grabbing parts. I've got a 91 F350 that I was going to scrap, but its clean enough that I'll put a TTB setup in it and resell it, keeping the 60 for another project. What year TTB do I need to find, and what parts do I need in addition to the steering links and axle? Thanks in advance! Ryan
I haven't actually done this, but I was in the same place as u once with reselling the f-350. I had a '94 350 and a '92 250, was gonna use the ttb brakets from the 250 and mount them to the 350 in the same place. the 250 springs have a negative arch and the 350 springs are flat, other than that the ttb should bolt right in after u gett the pivot brakets mounted to the crossmember underneath. Probably need the steering that comes with the ttb that u will need to source. I would go with the d50 ttb over the d44ttb cause it would be more desirable in a 3/4 ton truck with the bigger brakes and wheel bearings. The d50 in these trucks use the same hubs rotors and brakes as the 60. Should be a simple swap, just drill some holes and bolt up the ttb pivot brakets and bolt it in.
It looks like there are a couple of holes in the crossmember for the pivots, and as Chevy said, the springs have a mild positive arch, will this be a problem with F250 ttb? I don't want to fight camber problems, do I have to get the springs too? Thanks guys!
If u can get the springs with the TTB, it would probably help. I think that with the 350 springs u would have some alignment issues that u probably don't want to deal with. If u do use the 350 springs, I think maybe Rough Country makes some 1.5" drop brackets that would probably fix this probablem. Just make things easier if u can get the springs with the TTB.
Not sure, there is another thread on here discussing the differences. I think that it was stated that they would not just bolt in between the 44 and 50. Something about different length TTB beams.
Any leaf sprung d44 or d50 beams will bolt in place of the 60 (you will need the pivot brackets, steering, and possibily the leafs depending on how wore out they are). The brakes are the same size between the two (if they were smaller on the 44 they'd have 15"wheels, and guess what, they don't fit, and i've also swapped calipers between a d44 and d60 when i swapped my leaf sprung d44 ttb out for an 87 d60, used the calipers from the 44 as they were in better shape.
Any leaf sprung d44 or d50 beams will bolt in place of the 60 (you will need the pivot brackets, steering, and possibily the leafs depending on how wore out they are). The brakes are the same size between the two (if they were smaller on the 44 they'd have 15"wheels, and guess what, they don't fit, and i've also swapped calipers between a d44 and d60 when i swapped my leaf sprung d44 ttb out for an 87 d60, used the calipers from the 44 as they were in better shape.
I would put a straight 44 in if I was you. The person buying it next will more than likely be much happier w/ a 44 solid in the front over a ttb. TTB's are good axles but not in a 1 ton IMHO
The buyer likely won't know or care, as its a work truck with a service bed on it, not a project truck. An 8 lug 44 would set me back $500 here, and require fab work to install, where as I've passed on free ttb stuff many times, and it sounds like a half day bolt in.
For u the TTB swap would be much better, no fabbing. A solid axle 44, as u stated above will require all new hangers, unless u just moved a new set of perches out to the required width, still not a bolt in.
Well a rusty D50 TTB with pivot brackets, steering links, leafs, and shackles miracled itself into the bed of the truck today. Kinda a funny deal, I told my boss I'd be willing to pay up to $200 for a drop in setup, and a rusty pos shows up, so I need to look it over, add up caliper kits, hardware and brake lines and make an offer on it.
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