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Old 08-30-2007, 06:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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88 bronco II tranny swap

so i got a 88 b2 cheap and it had a blown a4ld so i swapped it out for another a4ld but it wont leave 1st gear so at this point im going to just drop a manual tranny in it, what all has to be done and what should i look for at the junk yards? id like to still use my stock t-case if possible, i think i got it all figured out except the clutch pedal, do they just bolt onto the firewall or do you need to swap out the steering colum bracket for one with a clutch?
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you will need the clutch pedal assembly for a first gen bii, ranger, the plugs going into the trans and the one under the dash to by pass the neutral switch, flywheel and starter

get a m5od out of a ranger/b2 the 2.9 and 4L work and there the strongest trannies for these engines, as for you pedal you can swap out the shaft and instal the one with the clutch or you can remove your dash which will give you more room and swap out the whole assembly as one
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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is the m5od a normal tranny and easy to spot or is it hard to come by? and i ran the starter for the 2.9L auto and manual and they both show up the same so i dont think i need that, so far im going for the tranny, flywheel, clutch, presure plate and pedal. do they even have a pedal that can bolt onto the firewall or do i have to swap out parts?
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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M5OD is used in 5spd 4x4 explorers. its fairly tough to find. better off using an FM145 or FM146. the pedel assembly on these are retarded..they're mounted in a huge cast aluminum thingy that has 4bolts into the firewall then 2 bolts up into the dash and then your steering column bolts into it and thats how its suspended.

to remove it you must remove the master clutch cyl, unbolt the steering column flange in the floor and manuver arond it.. and you must pull out your brake booster. starters between the two are the same, you can get a new flywheel for about $60. and a clutch kit for around $100.
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Old 08-31-2007, 06:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You could always put a c4/c5 in it too if you really wanted to stay auto...
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You could always put a c4/c5 in it too if you really wanted to stay auto...

no thanks, i always hates autos and im so sorry i even botherd to drop an auto in it, with a manual ill know it will shift and i know how to rebuild a manual
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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no thanks, i always hates autos and im so sorry i even botherd to drop an auto in it, with a manual ill know it will shift and i know how to rebuild a manual
To each their own. I guess I prefer automatics, but then again I also rebuild my own autos too. They aren't any harder than a manual trans IMHO...
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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FM146/M5OD are the only manuals you can put in without haveing to change driveshaft length.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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found a good page about what trucks have the m5od and shit, and it looks like im going for the m5od if i can find it at the local pick-n-pull

heres the link if anyone needs the info aswell http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...nsmission.html
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Old 08-31-2007, 07:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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M5OD is used in 5spd 4x4 explorers. its fairly tough to find. better off using an FM145 or FM146. the pedel assembly on these are retarded..they're mounted in a huge cast aluminum thingy that has 4bolts into the firewall then 2 bolts up into the dash and then your steering column bolts into it and thats how its suspended.
what are you talking about the m50d is found in the 2.9, 4L, 3L, and 2.3, and its not hard to find one just dont aim after the 2.3 or the 3L and if you have a 4L only use one for the 4L or you might as well just head right back to the wreckers.

http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum/index.php, go here and you will get alot more help and info for any other projects for your b2
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i think i got everything figured out, ill be doing this next week sometime after i gather all the parts and ill post how it went
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Old 09-01-2007, 08:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The pedal assy on a first gen is easier to change than that of a second.

There are E clips on either side of the pivot. Pull one clip and slide the cross pin out. You'll need the longer cross pin from the Std RBV you pulled the clutch and brake pedal from.

FWIW the second gen pedals cross pin is welded to the clutch pedal and is a royal PITA to remove without having to pull the whole assy down.

Good luck with your swap
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Old 09-10-2007, 07:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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so i got a tranny, the mitsu fm146, from what ive read this is a stonger tranny then a mazda m5od and more common so i went with it, leaving in a few minutes to go install it and hope i got the right clutch pedal.
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Old 09-10-2007, 10:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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so i got a tranny, the mitsu fm146, from what ive read this is a stonger tranny then a mazda m5od and more common so i went with it, leaving in a few minutes to go install it and hope i got the right clutch pedal.
Where the fuck did you read that!?! On every RBV site on the web you can find that the Mitsu is the WEAKEST manual ever put into the RBVs.

It's the weakest because of the crappy ball bearings it uses that don't handle thrust load well... when they get worn, the input cluster starts the float around and eventually gets sucked back into the other gears in the trans under load.

The M5OD is the strongest manual.

Start looking for an M5OD to replace the mitsu when it
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Where the fuck did you read that!?! On every RBV site on the web you can find that the Mitsu is the WEAKEST manual ever put into the RBVs.

It's the weakest because of the crappy ball bearings it uses that don't handle thrust load well... when they get worn, the input cluster starts the float around and eventually gets sucked back into the other gears in the trans under load.

The M5OD is the strongest manual.

Start looking for an M5OD to replace the mitsu when it

Mazda R-1 5-Speed
Code "M"


This is a top shift fully synchronized transmission. This has a light duty aluminum case and has a rectangular shape casting ribs with a large top cover. The R-2 is known for leaking oil from a rubber plug in the top cover. You should replace the rubber plug with a steel Dorman cup plug PN# 555-108 or Dana PN#219-3052. You will need 3 plugs. These trannies often melt down due to the oil loss caused by these plugs.

Many owners have went with synthetic transmission fluid hoping to extend the life of the transmission. Synthetic fluid handles high temperatures and pressures better then conventional fluids.

The hydraulic clutch, slave cylinder/throwout bearing is another item you should pay close attention to. After time, the slave cylinder fails to release the clutch completely. If you are having trouble shifting into 1st and reverse while stationary or if your truck creeps forward with the clutch pedal depressed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is probably at fault. Unfortunately there is no easy fix here as the transmission must be removed to replace the combination slave cylinder and throwout bearing.



yeah you could get the steel plugs but why bother when the mistu tanny works and it was only $35. if it blows then ill change it till then it stays....



anyway i got it all together in 4 hours, old a4ld out new fm146 in wiring all done and pedals in but now i cant get the damn hydrolic cluth to bleed, the original line for the clutch was shot so i used some shit i had laying around but i couldnt get it sealed tight enough, what are you guys using as lines for yer clutches? is there an adapter i could use or something to use steel lines instead? i tested the clutches master cylender and its tossing fluid out like crazy but i cant get it down to the trow out bering, i get presure for a few seconds and then nothing, wont even go thru the line at all.
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Mazda R-1 5-Speed
Code "M"


This is a top shift fully synchronized transmission. This has a light duty aluminum case and has a rectangular shape casting ribs with a large top cover. The R-2 is known for leaking oil from a rubber plug in the top cover. You should replace the rubber plug with a steel Dorman cup plug PN# 555-108 or Dana PN#219-3052. You will need 3 plugs. These trannies often melt down due to the oil loss caused by these plugs.

That's simply pointing out that the tranny's usual failure mode is from the loss of oil through those plugs, and to replace the plugs with something better.
I don't think a FM146 would last too long if it lost it's fluid either.


The FM146 can still last awhile if you gear your axles properly though (this means no running 35" tires on 3.73s or 4.10 gears, you'd need 4.88 or 5.13 for a tire that size)
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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That's simply pointing out that the tranny's usual failure mode is from the loss of oil through those plugs, and to replace the plugs with something better.
I don't think a FM146 would last too long if it lost it's fluid either.


The FM146 can still last awhile if you gear your axles properly though (this means no running 35" tires on 3.73s or 4.10 gears, you'd need 4.88 or 5.13 for a tire that size)

thats the thing, its not a mean machine, the most itll ever see is 33's, this is just a family waggon i got cheap and it needed a tranny
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:12 AM   #18 (permalink)
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thats the thing, its not a mean machine, the most itll ever see is 33's, this is just a family waggon i got cheap and it needed a tranny
4.56 or 4.88 gears then.
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Old 09-11-2007, 01:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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or 4.10's, you can find those at the j/y...
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Old 09-12-2007, 12:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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so no one knows where i can get a replacement clutch line at? i searched everywhere and no1 can get me it, they all say to use rubber line and i know from past experiences that rubber lines just expand and dont push the slave like the stock hard plastic one or steel ones do.
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Old 09-12-2007, 01:57 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Salvage or Ford. That's it.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Salvage or Ford. That's it.
Last I checked it was about $200 from the stealer.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:47 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Canadian price inflation blows a goat... they are about $100 here...

Of course.. I just paid $2.86 per bolt for pressure plate bolts yesterday at the stealership...
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Oh fuck that! We can't have people worshiping an imaginary sky ghost in any other than the approved methods. Oh hell no! This here's 'Merica!
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Just checking in to see if somebody divided by 0.

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Old 09-14-2007, 01:09 AM   #24 (permalink)
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well i went to the local pick-n-pull and found one (after checking every bronco II and ranger) that was a little shorter and rounted different but it worked, $2.50 for it so total for the truck to get it running was...


88 Bronco II (garage kept) = $300
89 Bronco II a4ld = FREE (didnt leave first gear)
89 Bronco II fm146 = $72 (with bell and pedals)
new slave = $92
new clutch line = $2.50

TOTAL: $465.50

not includng fluids and misc parts like brake fluid, gear oil and wires.

not bad for a truck that is in great shape and only 97k
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:31 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Good. Hope the mitsu holds together for a while.
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Oh fuck that! We can't have people worshiping an imaginary sky ghost in any other than the approved methods. Oh hell no! This here's 'Merica!
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Just checking in to see if somebody divided by 0.

Last edited by Totalled; 09-14-2007 at 01:31 AM.
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