D44 shafts and joints?

[MBBFord]

I want to upgrade my axle shafts and u joints in my 79 Bronco. Right now I'm running 36" Iroks, but plan to upgrade to 38.5 or 39.5" boggers. I don't rock climb, but like the skinny pedal and have a sligtly moded 400.

As for joints I was thinking either longfield 300Ms or CTMs, but I'm open to suggestions(IF alloys or yukons work good, then I'll save my money).
I can get the CTMs for $370 shipped or the
Longfields for $290 shipped.............

As for shafts, I don't know.... would a no name brand 4340 set work(which from what I understand are the same as Yukons, right or wrong?) or should I go with superior, alloy, I'd like to know what you guys are running and what works best.

What would ya'll go with/suggest?

[svt150j49]

save your cash for a 60.

[VerticalTRX]

A chromo D44 will work with your 36's, it won't with 39.5's. I'm running Alloy USA shafts in mine and I'm very happy with them. I've heard great things about Superior too. Do not run Yukons, they are crap, some claim they are weaker than stock. I wouldn't waste money on any other no name shafts either.

[MT4Runner]

Go Alloys for shafts. Should pay about $500 for 2 inners, 2 outers.

CTM's if this thing gets street-driven at all
Longfields if it's a trail-only rig.

(CTM's have bronze bushings; Longs have a little bigger post on the cross...but need more maintenance--Bobby recommends grease before every other trail run)

[BOGGER1966]

Originally Posted by svt150j49

save your cash for a 60.

or he could get some quality chromos and joints and be just about as strong as a 60.....for a hell of a lot less...

[svt150j49]

the problem i ran into, and keep running into... is even if you build the shit out of it... its still a 1/2 ton axle. eats wheel bearings faster, and yeah sure, you upgraded the shafts... but what if you break those? then you have to buy a 60 anyway...

this is why my 44 is for sale, and im on the search for a 60. i get away with 1/2 ton crap, because my 300 makes no power compared to a healthy V8.

id keep your 36s until you can upgrade it all... ya know?

[Panthers65]

$500 for the shafts, $370 for the CTM's = at least $900 shipped. Doesn't seem that much cheaper than a 60... yea you'll need to hang the axle and get new wheels, but stepping up to 40's with a v8, 1-ton axles are the smallest thing that will hold up, especially to the skinny...

[strokt]

I been messing with the 44 and 38's for 4 years now and tired of change joints and shafts.
I have done the yukons and cant believe he upheld the warranty. I sent him a inner outer and joint back in 6 pieces. I am finishing my 60 this weekend. It adds up quick when you are buying several outers and joints a year not to mention the incovience. You want to get good at change that crap put 38's on 44

[GMCTruxrule]

Originally Posted by BOGGER1966

or he could get some quality chromos and joints and be just about as strong as a 60.....for a hell of a lot less...

Gotta disagree on that. Chromo shafts and CTMS in a dana 44 will help some, but you still can't upgrade the weaker pinion and ball joint design.

And if he looks around, he can find a 60 for arguably the same price as upgrading to chromos and CTMs.

[Chass]

Originally Posted by GMCTruxrule

Gotta disagree on that. Chromo shafts and CTMS in a dana 44 will help some, but you still can't upgrade the weaker pinion and ball joint design.

And if he looks around, he can find a 60 for arguably the same price as upgrading to chromos and CTMs.

I totally disagree. Ball joints are only weak when they get old and abused. Replace them before they get bad and you won't have any trouble. D44 is a plenty strong ring and pinion for anything 40" and smaller. That may depend on the weight of your rig too.

My biggest problem with your statement is that a D60 costs around $1000 to buy, once you're done paying for Histeer, locker, ring and pinion, etc, they are extremely expensive.

I still believe the D44 is a great axle. Its just not cut out for tires bigger than that 40s.

You might look here for joint and axle shaft information. It may not be the bible but its a good start.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...44+axle+shafts

Chass
ct

[BOGGER1966]

Originally Posted by svt150j49

the problem i ran into, and keep running into... is even if you build the shit out of it... its still a 1/2 ton axle. eats wheel bearings faster, and yeah sure, you upgraded the shafts... but what if you break those? then you have to buy a 60 anyway...

this is why my 44 is for sale, and im on the search for a 60. i get away with 1/2 ton crap, because my 300 makes no power compared to a healthy V8.

id keep your 36s until you can upgrade it all... ya know?

agreed.....

[VerticalTRX]

Bottom line, stick with smaller tires (36-37" or less), with chromo's and good joints and it will probably hold up if you don't brutalize it.

38's or up are out for even a well built D44 under a V8 fullsize.

As for those who say its about the same price to swap in a D60 as it is to beef up a D44, you're lying to yourself. I went through exactly this a few months back. I broke the side gears, u-joints, and chipped the ring gear all in one shot on my stock D44. I was completely ready to step up to a D60, shopped around for a few days and really put the pencil to paper on exactly what it would cost.

Assuming I could find a D60 for under $1000, it was going to cost close to $4000 to get the whole thing done. That includes completely rebuilding the D60 (with 35spl), a one ton rear axle to match, 38"+ tires (otherwise whats the point of ton's), lockers for both, reworking the suspension, etc.

It cost about $1200 to keep the truck the way it was and completely rebuild the D44 stem to stern. Anyone who says it will cost the same isn't adding up the small stuff and everything that goes with a one ton axle swap.

[BOGGER1966]

Originally Posted by GMCTruxrule

Gotta disagree on that. Chromo shafts and CTMS in a dana 44 will help some, but you still can't upgrade the weaker pinion and ball joint design.

And if he looks around, he can find a 60 for arguably the same price as upgrading to chromos and CTMs.

i agree, if he waits a while and shops around, he might be able to get a deal on a 60 that is about the same as the upgraded d44.....

i dont know about you, but every time somthing i broke somthing on a d44 it was either the ujoint or axles.....BUT im not a hardcore rock crawler....

i agree the d60 is a far better option, thats why you dont see d44 anywhere in my sig, but somtimes you have to work with whacha got.....

i can see him easily getting away with running 38's with the quality axle and jointed d44 for many years.....it also depends on what kind of terrain you wheel, straight mud and i think hed be alright.....

[BOGGER1966]

Originally Posted by GMCTruxrule

Gotta disagree on that. Chromo shafts and CTMS in a dana 44 will help some, but you still can't upgrade the weaker pinion and ball joint design.

And if he looks around, he can find a 60 for arguably the same price as upgrading to chromos and CTMs.

i agree, if he waits a while and shops around, he might be able to get a deal on a 60 that is about the same as the upgraded d44.....

i dont know about you, but every time somthing i broke somthing on a d44 it was either the ujoint or axles.....BUT im not a hardcore rock crawler....

i agree the d60 is a far better option, thats why you dont see d44 anywhere in my sig, but somtimes you have to work with whacha got.....

i can see him easily getting away with running 38's with the quality axle and jointed d44 for many years.....it also depends on what kind of terrain you wheel, straight mud or some trails and i think hed be alright.....

[strokt]

If you are patient and shop around you can find a 60 front for fairly resonable($1000 88 king pin,under $1500 78 79) You dont always have to be in a rush to buy it, build it, install it. Let it sit in garage buy parts when you have extra cash. You can buy a com plete running 1ton for under 2K if, If you want to deal with parting it. GM 60's are plentiful, grab all the outer parts and put them on a currie9 with high pinion 35 spline center section.

[partsflyin]

IMHO its all about growth. I think that most folks out there wheelin a fullsize truck are in the long run gonna out grow even an upgraded 44.
When I started wheelin a stock 44 was fine. Then I got bit by the bug.Bigger tires..bigger obstacles. Its a vicious cycle. I say skip upgrading the 44 and go with a 60. If you like to wheel that much , I think you'll be happier in the long run with a 60.
Slim

[Chass]

Originally Posted by partsflyin

IMHO its all about growth. I think that most folks out there wheelin a fullsize truck are in the long run gonna out grow even their full size rig and buy a Suzuki or a Toyota

Fixed it for ya!

Thats what I did!

And then you can buy a nice lightweight truck and throw your D44 under it where it will hold together just fine!

If you think all those guys with D60s aren't breaking parts with their bigger tires you're fooling yourself. D60s break too. You have to put bigger tires on them to clear your diff and then you've got the same scenario but you're suddenly harder on your drivetrain.

Chass
ct

[VerticalTRX]

Originally Posted by partsflyin

IMHO its all about growth. I think that most folks out there wheelin a fullsize truck are in the long run gonna out grow even an upgraded 44.
When I started wheelin a stock 44 was fine. Then I got bit by the bug.Bigger tires..bigger obstacles. Its a vicious cycle. I say skip upgrading the 44 and go with a 60. If you like to wheel that much , I think you'll be happier in the long run with a 60.
Slim

Hey man, whats kickin?

Saw some of those recent pics from Chestnut mtn, that place has gotten alot rougher since I was down there last, lemme know the next time yall head out there.

[IROK Cherokee]

I did run 39.5's on a 44 for a few years. Yeah it broke. Yeah it was way built. I had a 60 waiting in the wings. Gathered parts for a few years and finally was able to build it. To answer your question, stay with what you have for now. Look for a KP 60 left drop. Then gather parts, build it then GET IT without worry.

[BLK Scout 800]

Check my sig for the strongest 44 you can build (less the housing) IMO

[jakerngr]

I have a d44 under my ranger with chromo's and CTM's Its locked on 37's and I have broken one axle and twisted a stub shaft. I dont weigh nierly as much as you and dont have anywhere near the power (mostly stock 4.0). I have even concidered going to a 60 for strength.

[WHITE RHINO]

i would personally go with a 60 why dump money into a 44 when you will probably and most likely progress in your wheeling to be a little bit harder and harder of a driver. Buy a 60 then upgrade it as you go. All ive heard about chromo 44 shafts is that they are garbage and you are better off either running stock replacements with a good u-joint or just goint to a 60.

Im tired of my 44 so im ditching it. Going to look for a 60. You could buy my mogs too hahaha.

[partsflyin]

Originally Posted by Chass

Fixed it for ya!

Thats what I did!

And then you can buy a nice lightweight truck and throw your D44 under it where it will hold together just fine!

If you think all those guys with D60s aren't breaking parts with their bigger tires you're fooling yourself. D60s break too. You have to put bigger tires on them to clear your diff and then you've got the same scenario but you're suddenly harder on your drivetrain.

Chass
ct

The point is not everybody wants to wheel a mini truck!!
And believe me, I've broken 2 Dana 60 stubs and an axle in my rear 60 this year. I never said they were unbreakable by any means.If I'd been on a 44 I would have broken alot more than that.
My point is ,skip the training wheels and do it right the first time.

[partsflyin]

Originally Posted by VerticalTRX

Hey man, whats kickin?

Saw some of those recent pics from Chestnut mtn, that place has gotten alot rougher since I was down there last, lemme know the next time yall head out there.

Same ol stuff Bro!! How you been? Ya we've found a couple extra places to play down at chesnut. I'll holler at ya next time we go!

[MBBFord]

I've been looking for a D60 for close to two years, and in my area it is VERY hard to find a 78 79 D60 period. In other states I could get one for around $1,500 straight out the junkyard, plus shipping. Then I'm close to $2K, still can't wheel, and still need to drop a good $2-3K more into it before it even goes in.

I could afford a little under a grand on shafts and joints and wheel my 36s till they're worn out(still brand new), instead of having to sell them(5 lug wheels 15", which wouldn't work on a D60).

I do have plans to upgrade to a D60, but like ya'll said, keep it in the shop and slowly build it.

Untill then, what seems to be the best shafts....
Superior seems to be good, ya'll said yukon is junk, how much better is alloy.

As for joints, it's a 79 Bronco, and it will see the road occasionaly, but less than 1k miles road time a year, and mostly stay in the mud.... No rocks or hill climbs(to flat in my area), so the CTMs would be less maintanence than the longfield 300ms and stronger or just as strong?

What would you put in the D44 to run 36s in the mud while waiting to build a D60?

Thanks